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[gregk9]

I have made an attempt at constructing the main winch roller assemblies and also the main winch stern control console, all of which are from photographs, as no real measurements available off the original plans supplied. So bit of artistic license here Im afraid, but they seem to represent the real thing sure enough. Obviously, once painted, they will blend in a lot better, so now you can see why i deliberately left a section of the stern deck in unpainted white plastic now. its so i can glue the control panel down, without having to scrape paint off !
All the roller assemblies and control panel are yet again flat plasticard and plastic tube, using solid rod as pivots again for the rollers, so yes, they still do rotate!.

[j22mdr]

I love this vessel im sure i took a picture of it in the solent last weekend

[gregk9]

Thanks for comment, but don't forget, this actual vessel has recently had the bow lifting horns removed as it is just a diving support vessel. I am unsure if its sister ship  [Moorfowl] still has the lifting horns intact. But if you do have pictures, please feel free to attach them, they all help with my build.

[Shipmate60]

Moorfowl has had the same conversion and is now based in Kyle of Lochalsh (NW Scotland) with Moorhen.

Bob

[j22mdr]

i will put the photos on here this evening the one i have is very similar but it was too far out in the solent to get a name

[j22mdr]

This is the vessel i took a picture off its similar to moorhen but i do not know the name

[Shipmate60]

That is a "Sal" Class Mooring Vessel.
We had 3,
Salmoor, based in Greenock.
Salmaid, based in Plymouth.
Salmaster, based in Rosyth.
Salmaster was sold off and Serco now operate Salmoor as a mooring vessel, Salmaid for trials etc and both are based in Greenock.

Bob

[pugwash]

Bob was just about to say Sal Class and look a numpty when I saw your post.

Geoff

[j22mdr]

Cheers Bob would this of been the one from plymouth do you think

[Shipmate60]

Being honest the pic isn't clear enough to show the differences which was to the ships boats and davits.
Was that pic taken off Ryde, IOW.
Depending on the age of the pic it could be either Salmoor or Salmaid.
As she has the red funnel of Serco I would assume that this one is Salmoor as she was the only one left.
Old Dodes might know as he was the skipper of Salmaid. (I was chief Engineer on both!!)

Bob

[j22mdr]

This picture was taken last saturday evening near the hover terminal southsea

[Shipmate60]

Think that was Salmoor she was due in Pompey for a few days.

Bob

[gregk9]

Not had chance to do much build today, had to go out and earn some money in a thing called "work" !

So, now the stern winch control panel has dried, ive painted underneath its legs to complete the deck base paint. Ive also formed the front anchor winch base, trying as far as possible to get the base "level" so to speak. I have not glued this down as yet, i want to fit the winch drum and  windlass to it first.

[darrencuk]

Do u mind me asking what mag this boat was in and like the issue number looks good so far :)

[sailorboy61]

Darren, myhobbystore.com do a material pack and a hull, HULMM1467

[Shipmate60]

And if you ask nicely Old Dodes has a CD Rom full of pics of her!!!!

Bob

[darrencuk]

Oh that's good I will let my father no after 20 years of not building boats this build has taken my fathers fancy

[gregk9]

Well if you're father needs any assistance in his own build, please feel free to contatc me too. But what ever you do, get the vac formed hull prepped first, as the sides are well out of shape and need to be reshaped to get more "vertical " on the sides before you do anything.  Same goes if you order the Styrene kit to go with it, to build the rest of the vessel. myhobbystores sub contractor supplier loves to cut all the styrene "free hand", so you dont get a single straigth edge to any of them, so you are forced to loose a certain amount of plastic in cutting your own straigth edge before you mark out a single item.
The "basic plans" supplied from same company are "quite different" from the actuual vessel too, so you MUST keep an eye on the plans, but cross reference with the images BEFORE you do anything, trust me. I have had more than several occaisions of following the plans, then after looking at the images as the glue dries, found Ive had to "move" items as some things are missing off the plans, like all the ventilators for example. I bonded on all the forward deck bollards, alongside the roller fairleads, "as per plans", only to find after looking at the pictures, there are some ventilator pipes sitting inbetween the bow bollards, so had to relocate them before the expoy took hold.

ALL the guys who have inputted to this actual build thread have been so very helpful and I can't thank them enough for all their assistance, even so far, yet to completion. She's still a way off yet, but movin' on nicely i have to say myyself. I am enjoying every minute of it, but you do need a good strong imagination to see "beyond" the printed plans, as see "in to" the pictures, to fill in a few odd gaps.


Anyways, on with todays playtime.
I have made the forward capstan and gypsy post , in one go out of a piece of wooden dowel. I was going to try and do similar out of plastic, but just could not do it without it breaking, so piece of dowel in a drill chuck and away with a knife and file. It seems to of shaped up ok, so has been bonded in place, along with the tubular chain guide for the anchor chain.
I have also made the forward samson post plate, complete with "siezed samson post", yeah, the one thats always seem "upright" in all the images [ha ha]. I have given it all a base coat of deck green, ready to rust streak later.

There is a bit of equipment sitting just forward of the rear main winches,  I can only presume this is a form of "load sensor" for the winch cables when hauled forward and over the lifting horns. The images I have only show glimpses of the item, so I may have to do a bit of guess work to actually create a replica item.  If any of you do have any pictures of this bit of kit, it would be appreciated, but there appears to have a pivot arm with a counter balance on one end and a cable guide on the other..  As a clue, kindly look at the last image on this particular post please guys....

[gregk9]

I have fitted the portholes today in the main superstructure side walls. rather than purchase brass items [at a cost] I have made my own plastic ones, Ok so not brilliant, but once cleaned up and painted, they will suffice.
To create plastic versions i first mark the positions of the portholes and drill a small pilot hole to use for location.
I then use a compass to mark out the  portholes on some plasticard and cut out with either a new blade or scissors.
using the compass mark as a centre I then drill a pilot hole using same drill as used on the hull sides.
Place the plastic "disc" on the pilot drill, apply some glue and use the pilot drill as a location peg, press firmly the disc against the hull side, then retract the drill bit.
leave glue to fully dry.
The using increasingly larger drills, or if very careful, a "conical cutter or reamer", drill out the centre of the plastic disc to the thickness of the porthole surround you require.

job done, alls that is left once the outside is painted, is to place some clear plastic on the inside to act as the glazing
.

[gregk9]

Time for a major painting experience. todays task has been to put the base coat on the hull. I have fully coated the hull in "red oxide primer". this has had two "good" coats, with a sanding in between coats. Once fully dry, probably 2 days, I can then mask off the waterline and add the upper black side section, but at least if the paint gets damaged, it shows "red oxide" underneath, so again looks more realistic.
I have also used the residue off the paint brush to start a bit of "weathering" on one of the deck removeable panels, painting over the "deck green" with  "dry brush" method, jsut to start ageing the deck and see what the effect is like, before I use it on the other sections, but unless you try, you dont know.

ive still not had a reply yet on the "deck component" in question, a couple of posts ago. If anyone does have any info on it or can shed some more light on what it actually is, so I know and understand what I am actually trying to construct, It will be most useful...

[Shipmate60]

The component in front of the winches?

Bob

[gregk9]

Yes, it sits between the winches and the roller fairleads,  looks about 3ft high, 2ft wide, quite a lightweight looking frame, a bit like a clothes airer, with an arm passing through it with a counterweight on one end and a  sort of "cable over clamp" on the other, presume it clamps over the cable as it runs forward to the lifting horns, but merely guessing here.



this picture shows the, er "device" at bottom centre of the image, with one of the winches above/behind it.

[Shipmate60]

Greg,
That is the Load Cell.
It was a retro fit to enable the strain on the wires to me measured.
It is just an angle iron frame with the wire passing through.
As the strain increases the wire straightens out so can be calibrated to show the actual "pull" being exerted by the winch.

Bob

[gregk9]

AH Ha !
Thanks Bob for the info, now I know what I'm looking at. I will make the "load sense arm" pivoting. Incidentally, when not in use, were these lifting cables run right back to the winch dr, or were they left just back forward of the main roller fairleads, forward of this load cell?
Its just I was thinking to make it look a bit more realistic, and make sense of all the bits of kit on the deck, to run the winch cables through to just past the rollers and leave on the deck "ready for use". yes I appreciate its "trip hazard", but looking at some of the pictures, there was more worse things laying around you could fall over [ha ha].

[Shipmate60]

The mains were run close to the load cell.

Bob