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Author Topic: Help with the puffin  (Read 11807 times)

Underpressure

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #25 on: January 06, 2011, 05:16:07 pm »

If you thread-lock them you will never get them out again if you needed to strip the engine, they are less than 1.5mm allen bolt, as you will know, and that won't stand upto much force before it rounds the allen key in the slot.

I'm not sure what you mean here Underpressure;

The trunnion pin is a loose fit on the cylinder and is held in place by the spring clip which is held in place by the two large headed bolts on the back of the throttle body- in what way do they 'come loose'?

Greg

Greg,
        I may be using the wrong term, but it is the name I was given by Cheddar.

On the face of the cylinders, where they mate to the standard, there is a pivot pin which is screwed into a hole in the cylinder; this I was told, is the trunnion pin.

They can unscrew themselves if they bind into the hole in the standard.

Bernhard, your engine is either a second generation Cheddar unit (HS93 will give us the date when the cast standard was dispensed with), or it is a Stuart unit.

The standard was changed from a casting to a CNC'd unit in order to reduce manufacturing costs.

Neil
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HS93 (RIP)

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #26 on: January 06, 2011, 07:15:24 pm »

Greg,
        I may be using the wrong term, but it is the name I was given by Cheddar.

On the face of the cylinders, where they mate to the standard, there is a pivot pin which is screwed into a hole in the cylinder; this I was told, is the trunnion pin.

They can unscrew themselves if they bind into the hole in the standard.

Bernhard, your engine is either a second generation Cheddar unit (HS93 will give us the date when the cast standard was dispensed with), or it is a Stuart unit.

The standard was changed from a casting to a CNC'd unit in order to reduce manufacturing costs.

Neil

First off Greg if you read the instructions for building the engine you will find the designer of the engine specifies thread lock on ALL screws but what does he know it's worked on my plants they even supply it with the kits,
 2nd by the Length of the output shaft I would say it is one made for maxitrack for there steam wagon, although some had the oil hole there as in the paddle engine that lays flat as well

Peter
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HS93 (RIP)

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #27 on: January 06, 2011, 07:28:28 pm »

Cheddar shared parts across the range the two pictures show the normall crank (short) with the oil hole in normall place and a paddle engine with hole on side this is also the same as the original Maxitrack output shaft support on the crank. also maxitrack also has a 90 elbow on the output for the steam pipe as it needs ground clearance

Peter
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gondolier88

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #28 on: January 06, 2011, 10:04:41 pm »

First off Greg if you read the instructions for building the engine you will find the designer of the engine specifies thread lock on ALL screws but what does he know it's worked on my plants they even supply it with the kits,
Peter

If I'd had the instructions when I built the one I had to I would have known!

As it is the grub screws on it can now be undone with a medium sized flathead that can be found in most modeller's/diy'ers toolkits or penknife etc and don't have to worry about loosing a micro allen key. It is also a larger surface area in contact with the flat on the shaft so I won't loose any sleep over it.

On the face of the cylinders, where they mate to the standard, there is a pivot pin which is screwed into a hole in the cylinder; this I was told, is the trunnion pin.

They can unscrew themselves if they bind into the hole in the standard.

Neil

Funny- thinking back, the trunnion pins were where I did use threadllock, though I would have thought it would have been fairly obvious if the pin was binding in the standard- you simply have to rotate the cylinder on the standard without the the spring bracket attached.

Greg
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Underpressure

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #29 on: January 06, 2011, 10:22:42 pm »


Funny- thinking back, the trunnion pins were where I did use threadllock, though I would have thought it would have been fairly obvious if the pin was binding in the standard- you simply have to rotate the cylinder on the standard without the the spring bracket attached.

Greg

Ahh, but the only way you realise that the pin is binding in the standard is when the boat stops in the middle of the lake and won't respond to the throttle.

Once recovered you realise it is because the trunnion pin has unscrewed itself and the cylinder has dropped slightly still held partially in place by the spring.

You know how I know this?  :embarrassed:

It's even worse when you carefully lubricated the engine and bench ran it after a long lay off, because you knew the trunnion pin could come loose  >>:-(

The fix is of course threadlock and once you've figured out that a wrap of leather around the pin will allow you to really get a good grip on it, without damaging the polished finish, you can actually screw the pin in tight.

Ah well, the man who never made a mistake, never made anything.  :-))
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gondolier88

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #30 on: January 06, 2011, 11:36:22 pm »

Ahh, but the only way you realise that the pin is binding in the standard is when the boat stops in the middle of the lake and won't respond to the throttle.

Ah! %)
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Bernhard

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #31 on: January 18, 2011, 12:25:18 pm »

hi...Today i dit adjustable cylinder bottom/piston rod gland packing to my Puffin. i like the ide on the Clyde engine ..i didnt like it spit a littel from the bottom,,,this stop it.... 3/16-40 thread with a o ring
..i will repaint the engine ,,

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Reg Hinnant

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #32 on: January 18, 2011, 07:10:33 pm »

 :-))
Bernhard, did you make new bottom plates with threaded ends or were you able to just thread the original bottom plate?
Thanks!
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Bernhard

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #33 on: January 18, 2011, 07:46:30 pm »

Hi... it was very easy to do, with no problem,on the original plate,,,i just made the thread...and cut a littel of it...so there was space en of to the nuts with the  oring,,,,,,,,,,it real run dry now,,,,,,,

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gondolier88

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #34 on: January 18, 2011, 08:20:08 pm »

Hi bernhard,

A very good idea making some glands. I don;t know if it is the camera flash [playing tricks, but it looks like you have soldered the shaft bearing oiler up?

Greg
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Bernhard

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #35 on: January 18, 2011, 09:58:48 pm »

hi... yes i look like that...bot i havent,,,the oiler hul is on the other side...it whas like this, when i got it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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HS93 (RIP)

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #36 on: January 18, 2011, 10:17:57 pm »

Has the base also been soldered on ? I would think about a new oil hole on the front bearing  as per normall or fit a bit of brass tube and an oil cup in the existing hole so it is vertical.

Peter
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Bernhard

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #37 on: January 19, 2011, 08:09:31 am »

Hi.......... it look like this...i haven't don anything to it,,,,Yes thats a good idea.......bot i have get some miniature bearings,,,they will fit perfect....so i will ma-by use them later.........
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Reg Hinnant

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #38 on: January 24, 2011, 10:49:36 pm »

Hi Bernhard,
What type of nut did you use for the O ring mod?
Is it the type used with pipe & cones?
(I know it's 3/16 x 40 thread)
Thanks!
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Bernhard

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #39 on: January 25, 2011, 06:21:06 am »

Hi......... yes the smallest one i did have......
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livesteam

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #40 on: April 12, 2011, 03:45:50 pm »

Many Thanks fore your help....
the engine is now running real fine again,,i did use some hex bolt to the cover,,and did the 2 small parts to,,

Regards Bernhard

Hi Bernhard
What size are those hex-bolts?
Thanks!
Kaspar
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Bernhard

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Re: Help with the puffin
« Reply #41 on: April 12, 2011, 07:27:38 pm »

hi Kasper,,,,,,,,,sorry .. i cant rember...it whas some screws i just have in my screw box...

Bernhard
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