Topic: speed controllers (Read 13549 times)

MikeA · « **Reply #25 on:** July 14, 2011, 09:15:46 am »

it has got cooling on. ill put the suppression kit on eventually. i wont move anything about though cos itl affect the balance theres reasons why its laid out as it is. I used a giantcod for my propeller. thanks for the link. as far as a 2.4 ghz radio itl have to be on a better boat. ill use a brushless too. but until then.

n33h · « **Reply #26 on:** July 14, 2011, 09:28:05 am »

sounds like a good plan mike, a brushless setup in that would be great

in my old 25" mono/deep V i ran a 1900kv outrunner motor with a 4mm flex shaft turning a 3 blade copper prop (balanced and sharpened by me ) 60a turnigy ESC (watercooled/proofed by me) 2x 2s 5000mah lipo's in series, i got 40mph out of the boat but if i used an inrunner motor i could've seen low 50's

MikeA · « **Reply #27 on:** July 14, 2011, 12:46:09 pm »

it wont be in this boat, and not at this stage i havent made much allowances for the possibilty of modyfications without a complete rebuild, and if i did would probably nacker it completely. Cant wait to get it on the lake though i dont know how it will perform. it might even sink, hope not (touch wood)

n33h · « **Reply #28 on:** July 14, 2011, 03:16:50 pm »

you can adjust the batterys forward or backwards depending how you want the hull to ride, on my old mono, i had the last quarter hull in the water, if it got a bit bumpy, i would move the batt's forward to bring the nose down for more wetted area

MikeA · « **Reply #29 on:** July 14, 2011, 05:51:12 pm »

the motor and batteries are positioned so the cockbit in the middle fits between them. i made a bit of an error on the hull and when it sat in the water it leaned forward. to level it i put all the weight at the back. tbh it has a lot of bodges on. here is the vinyl seats (with cushioning) and the fittings

pompebled · « **Reply #30 on:** July 14, 2011, 05:56:16 pm »

Quote from: Mad_Mike on July 14, 2011, 12:48:57 am

This has been a very steep learning curve for me at least i wont fall in the same pit next time.

Hi Mike,

Don't worry, you'll find another pit to fall in, building your next boat, as have I and many others...
Make sure to ask first and than build or buy.

Regards, Jan.

n33h · « **Reply #31 on:** July 14, 2011, 08:21:26 pm »

i agree with jan, we all make mistakes and hopefully learn from them

the seats etc look good, are you a closet sewing machine, looks proffesional ???

MikeA · « **Reply #32 on:** July 14, 2011, 09:19:42 pm »

nope stitch em by hand used glue etc 30mm wood rim steering wheel made myself too. used tin for the spokes drilled them. then made throttle leaver which moves etc. the seating area is probably imo the most successful bit on the whoe bit. it took me 7 hours to make the hull took a fortnight to make the canopy lid though.

MikeA · « **Reply #33 on:** July 18, 2011, 09:43:53 pm »

i got my new speed controller today and its really really really small lol. it even has a bec and i didint even no what it was till i installed and realised i had to take 4aa battery pack out. 8.20 plus p and p not bad. I also put a 30m prop on i also got on order a 31 and 34 aswell to trial.

thanks everybody for your help

red181 · « **Reply #34 on:** July 18, 2011, 10:23:36 pm »

Hi Mike I use those esc's in 3 club 500 boats, now I know the performance is different, it uses a 7.4v nims, no problems with them, no need for external power source

n33h · « **Reply #35 on:** July 19, 2011, 08:12:51 am »

a BEC (battery elimination circuit) allows the main battery to power everything

if you want to go back to using a 6v pack for the receiver and servo, the connector into the receiver on the ESC has 3 wires (white, red and black) pull the red wire out of the connecter by lifting the little tag on the connector (tape the metal pin back but DO NOT cut it off) this will let you use both battery packs then (6v for receiver & servo, main battery for motor)

nick

MikeA · « **Reply #36 on:** July 19, 2011, 09:01:00 am »

nah it can stay as it is. removing that old msc and battery pack has saved me 200g of weight.

n33h · « **Reply #37 on:** July 19, 2011, 10:15:57 am »

thats a fair one, i can understand that

if the hull's scratch built, did you get the shape from the delta force fast electric boat

MikeA · « **Reply #38 on:** July 19, 2011, 04:08:58 pm »

no i designed it myself. just took some inspiration off the Donzi Shelby boat. couldve done with more seats in it but i only made allowences for two. never mind.

pompebled · « **Reply #39 on:** July 19, 2011, 05:59:06 pm »

Hi Mike,

Did you run it yet?

Regards, Jan.

MikeA · « **Reply #40 on:** July 19, 2011, 06:04:08 pm »

nope not had chance to get it on the water yet. hopefully goin this weekend, oooooh its exciting

MikeA · « **Reply #41 on:** July 23, 2011, 09:19:37 pm »

I took my boat today for the first time. I managed to get twenty feet out of it then it then it cut out. it would then sit around for a while. then start up again. it keps doing this for ten minutes. on and off. i dont know if it was overheating or maybe it the radio. Anyway the wind got hold of it and it drifted into a out growing tree from the bank. i has strip down to me bl***y boxers and get it back. For a first model and first sale it was c**p!!

n33h · « **Reply #42 on:** July 23, 2011, 10:26:23 pm »

sorry to hear it did'nt go so well mike, it's all part of building a boat, now the silly questions pop into my mind

1- were the batteries fully charged ??
2- what esc rating is it ??
3- what prop size are you using ??
4- what transmitter /receiver is it ??

nick

MikeA · « **Reply #43 on:** July 23, 2011, 10:30:45 pm »

1. yep
2. 30 amp turnigy the one quoted in the topics above
3. 30mm 34 or 31
4. transmitter futaba reciever hobao

n33h · « **Reply #44 on:** July 24, 2011, 09:19:46 am »

usually if the esc kicks in and out it sometimes means the setup is pulling more amps than can be supplied

MikeA · « **Reply #45 on:** July 24, 2011, 09:53:36 am »

its rated at 30 amps i put a 25 amp fuse in it and it didnt pop

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #46 on:** July 24, 2011, 10:16:47 am »

Sometimes those Chinese amps they use on the ESC ratings can be a little smaller than European ones lol

pompebled · « **Reply #47 on:** July 24, 2011, 10:43:16 am »

Hi Mike,

Sorry to hear about your mishap on the maiden trip...

I have another 'silly question':
- is the motor fitted with suppression caps?
If not, the motor noise may interfere with the reception when you get further away from the transmitter.

The back of the motor should look something like this:

Schematic

If you run the boat again, stay close to the bank so you'll be able to retrieve the boat and check if anything is overheating, such as the motor, ESC, stuffing tube.
The reason I mention the stuffing tube is the fact that if you've packed it with (too) stiff grease, the drag is huge; enough to make the ampdraw surge beyond the capacity of the ESC, which will shut down thermally.

Regards, Jan.

John W E · « **Reply #48 on:** July 24, 2011, 11:25:01 am »

hi all having a look at a pic that Jan put on here if you look how the motor is cooled - where he has soldered 2 brass pieces of tubing onto the electrical terminals of the motoring - I wonder if he realises he is actually creating an electrical short. This is because, as the cooling water is passing through, it will conduct between the 2 electrical terminals - even though they are connected by plastic tube. This will, no doubt, decrease the life of the battery which is supplying the main voltage. Food for thought for those who cool their motors this way.

aye
john

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #49 on:** July 24, 2011, 12:11:41 pm »

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Properties_of_water#Electrical_properties

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Author Topic: speed controllers (Read 13549 times)

MikeA

n33h

MikeA

n33h

MikeA

n33h

MikeA

MikeA

n33h

MikeA

n33h

MikeA

MikeA

MikeA

n33h

MikeA

n33h

MikeA