Topic: My Build of H.M.T. RESOLVE from June 2011 (Read 105039 times)

wallace · « **Reply #75 on:** January 26, 2012, 10:19:16 am »

To start with thanks again for kind words.
Yes all my batteries have the boats name and two for each boat that I sail plus spare.

Todays photos are to show you the build at the stern that covers the opening to the rudder arm please remember the photos are taken with the bits not done only tape up and not clean or painted or varnish.
You can see the stern platform and the salvage anchor box with both have under them the steering chain covers which you will see at a later date.
Really just going ahead a little bit because Im waiting for my glues to arrive so I can fix the deck frame to the hull and also the aft deck to the frame, also I have all the bits not to leave the batteries in the boat and charge them with out taking of the superstruct its going to make the boat heavy but no more broken rigging now I hope will show all when its done.
wallace

wallace · « **Reply #76 on:** February 02, 2012, 04:31:15 pm »

Just started to fit the deck frame to the hull the photos you can see are the second atempt at bonding all together because the first time I done it two days ago that night the weather got really cold and the eproxi did not set I had a look 24 hours later no good,so I clean everything up and started again this time with glass fibra had a look and its ok,roll on the warm weather.
wallace

wallace · « **Reply #77 on:** February 03, 2012, 10:23:08 am »

Photos showing the deck frame fixed to the hull and tape etc all removed the next job to do is clean up the glass fibra and sand the two sides of the boat deck down level with the frame hoping that its fixed together ok but its a job to be done after the cold weather goes will eprox underside of the frame.
wallace

ken2 · « **Reply #78 on:** February 04, 2012, 11:30:21 am »

Good morning to all

I am a new member and have only just picked up the site. I have also started a Resolve and are now at the same stage approximately.
I have picked up the same problems with the deck formers etc. and about to finalise the motor installation. I tried to keep to the instructions and keep the prop shafts parallel to the keel. This obviously results in the shafts too close to the floor of the hull and some toe out of the prop shafts. I am still finalising a decision as I dont want to cut and carve as described so the motors will be very low. For my next major decision I am awaiting the fitting the mid section deck. I wait to see how this is solved.
I look forward to a solution.

many thanks for so far

ken2

wallace · « **Reply #79 on:** February 10, 2012, 02:58:43 pm »

Since my last post I have sanded the hull sides down to the stringers on the boat deck all is holding together,have filled the gaps around the deck I used a new filler for this but after 24 hours went to sand down and it all just brushed out and off the gaps phone the makers up and was told that the filler is only used for balsa wood not for filling around decks what a waste of money have gone back to my way of filling and that is car body filler and it worked great all done.marked and fitted the breakwater to the deck and have tape the side to fill in put into place the extended bulkhead to see how it fits and looks.
wallace

mersey dave · « **Reply #80 on:** February 10, 2012, 03:08:24 pm »

Hi Wallace, looking good you shoulld put this build on our site too.

see you at our meeting.

Regards Dave.

DickyD · « **Reply #81 on:** February 10, 2012, 03:26:36 pm »

Immaculate as usual Wallace.

Norseman · « **Reply #82 on:** February 10, 2012, 05:37:51 pm »

Hi Wallace

Very crisp and tidy work there. I hope to achieve the skills you show.

Do you have to seal that body filler? If so what with please?

Dave

wallace · « **Reply #83 on:** February 12, 2012, 01:06:21 pm »

Here's a reply to (Norseman) Dave I seal all my filler with around three coats of primmer then undercoat hope this helps.

This photo is about the breakwater joining to the side of the hull I filled with as always car filler I sanded down had a good look
at the job just done and thought it looks OK so took photo of work done had a look before posting on here not happy it just goes to show what the camera picks up and the eye doesn't but next it will look great trust me.
wallace

wallace · « **Reply #84 on:** February 14, 2012, 10:02:43 am »

Here's the work I am doing to get the filling on the breakwater 100% right so please start with photo 211 you can see not to good .
Started more sanding once again looks OK with the eye but the camera tells me a very big NO I'm going to mix a very small amount of filler leave for 24 hours then re-sand it will get there in the end.
It must be me being abit to fuzzy but its got to be 100% right or not do it in the first place no wonder it takes me around 2 years to build but its all great fun in the end.
wallace

wallace · « **Reply #85 on:** February 14, 2012, 04:34:34 pm »

Well after filling abit more then sanding I think I have got it right.Follow from other photos.
wallace

wallace · « **Reply #86 on:** February 17, 2012, 04:53:17 pm »

Got the aft sub deck fixed in done with car filler as you can see it looks more like a container ship

lets hope it all drys and holds ok will leave for 24 hours.
wallace

ken2 · « **Reply #87 on:** February 18, 2012, 08:35:27 am »

Hi Wallace

Many thanks for your helpful telephone conversation. As a result I decided to follow your advice and cut and carved a new prop shaft location.The underwater is not true scale as I am using the alternative rudder so it is not too impure but in hindsight I may make a more robust scale rudder. I would however champion the use of cyno glues for use on fiberglass. I used cyno to attach an array of timber under the deck then applied epoxy for the timber/timber joint and restrained the hull with tape etc while a cyno bead was applied round the periphery. Job done in five miutes then wait for the epoxy to go off.

Still waiting to see your mid deck solution !!

wallace · « **Reply #88 on:** February 19, 2012, 01:35:17 pm »

More work on the aft deck the filling is all done and the photos shows the cut out for the rudder and all my weights removed I did leave them all on for a good 24 hours I then set about filling the gaps around the sub deck using car filler once again as you can see its every where but I make sure it all goes into the gaps and NO water will get through into the hull so you can see I really made a mess but I will make good trust me.
wallace

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #89 on:** February 19, 2012, 02:34:41 pm »

Hi Wallace,

A little tip when filling gaps is to run your finger around the join to compress the filler deeper into the gap and it produces a nice curved joint. This can be followed up with a flat piece of plastic around the deck area. Might save a lot of awkward sanding when it's all dry.

I admire your work as I couldn't achieve your results. Smashing builds.

ken

wallace · « **Reply #90 on:** February 19, 2012, 02:42:45 pm »

Ken many thanks for your remark about filling have taken it onboard also thanks for your kind words of my build.

wallace

bobk · « **Reply #91 on:** February 19, 2012, 02:50:14 pm »

Wallace: Your build is looking really nice, thanks for sharing, and with all the photo's. I keep checking back in to follow your updates. Excellent work !
With filler in internal corners I use a thin small square of Plasticard with a tiny radius on the corners. Works for me, and helps reduce the amount of sanding later.

wallace · « **Reply #92 on:** February 19, 2012, 03:01:59 pm »

many thanks Bob for your kind words I am enjoying the build like all my others and with myself I always try and make the build better than the last one so hoefully this one is better than my build of Sir Lancelot which is on this site but as of yet not had it sea trails,once again thank you .
wallace

wallace · « **Reply #93 on:** February 19, 2012, 03:20:38 pm »

Theses photos show how messy the sanding can get so after a good couple of hours with the sand paper etc finally got it all smooth down and hover all off. You can see that I taped the opening to the engines did not want any dust getting into the motors as I left them inside.The printed decks fit great so I am happy.I will now get onto the hull ready for priming then once the hull is all done I will start the big build up ward.

wallace

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #94 on:** February 19, 2012, 04:09:40 pm »

Cor

came out rather well

ken

ken2 · « **Reply #95 on:** February 20, 2012, 10:05:23 am »

Hi Wallace

Had the first sea trial with my hull.

Enclose a couple of photos from our Droitwich club record keeper Tony Holt

The rudder lacked a good response and a little extra lead in the stern helped a little but still not good.
I used a radio mix for the motors but not too succesful although it did help to turn.

wallace · « **Reply #96 on:** February 22, 2012, 12:25:09 pm »

Added a capping strip to each side of the top side of the hull so the boat deck fits all square just a little bit of rubbing down and maybe a bit of filler so the joins cant be seen I left them abit over size so I can join the other capping rails later I may not add until after the hull has been painted reason being I may leave the wood capping rails as wood and not paint them just varnish.
wallace

ken2 · « **Reply #97 on:** March 09, 2012, 10:04:32 am »

Hi Wallace

You appear to be falling for the same problem I had with the boat deck as the 5mm sq strip advised in the instructions causes a problem.
With this in mind I called in at Jotica, the Caldercraft people to resolve the Resolve problem.
They are incredibly helpful and the visit to their Showroom/Museum is worth going well out of your way to visit. They have the two versions modelled on the box art to see and examine at leisure as well as some incredible static models.
The answer was to use a 3mm sq strip to edge the boat deck and the other problem regarding access after all the structure is added becomes obvious and is very easy and only requires the removal of one wire connection that can be a simple elasicated hook and the whole of the boat deck can be removed.
Good luck with the rest

Ken 2

wallace · « **Reply #98 on:** March 09, 2012, 05:22:17 pm »

These photos are about the mistake i done on the hull I didnt line up the holes for the port holes it was like wavey navy ??? so I re-done the line and filled the holes with glass fibre and at the same time filled the top of the hull where I put the strips of wood where the boat deck sits.
Rub all down and re-drilled now they look ok will open them up later as the port holes are 8mm.
wallace

wallace · « **Reply #99 on:** March 11, 2012, 04:28:00 pm »

This is the start of the upper deck fittings thers photos are about the fitting together of the f/ward hatch,there is more work to be done ,I will be filling the sides with filler and sanding down so the joins cannot be seen when painted.
wallace

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Author Topic: My Build of H.M.T. RESOLVE from June 2011 (Read 105039 times)

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