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[gregk9]

Following on from my completion of the radar mast assembly wiring, I decided to "do" something with the cables, where they are visible at the mast hinge joints.
So I pulled the cables back up the trunking pipes as far as the first [upper] joint, then slid a piece of black heatshrink tubing along the cables, then after heating the tubing, carefylly held the tubing in a curve, untill it cooled sufficiently to hold its shape. I then ran the cables down to the next "joint" and did the same, and so on untill the cables run through the lower cable connector and in to the underfloor space.
if you then added a few winds of black thread, you could replicate the ribs in the plastic cable trunking if any of you so wished. ive done this in the past, but m fingers are not yet quite agile enough to complete on this particular model build, my recent surgery is still limiting my abilities to a degree.








As you can also see from the photo's I have also added the safety rails and the padding block to the upper rail.  I still have the mast locking clips to add to the centre bar once the glue has fully bonded on the rails.

[gregk9]

a little more detail work on the main mast assembly today. ive now made up the retaining brackets, which have also been drilled ready to slip the locking pins through later. The mast "assister" rams were made from some small hollow tub and plastic rod, the ends of the tub cut to accept a piece of strip, to make the upper mounting bracket.






I am now starting to add more details to the flying bridge. I have finally sorted a ships wheel and converted it to 4 spokes instead of the 5 suplied, had great difficulty is sourcing a 4 spoke wheel of scale diameter.
the coxwain has now been called in to service, so I can ensure he is capable of holding the wheel and throttles !








I have now inserted the flying bridge screen glazing panels and added the remaining framework. Just waiting for the glue to dry before finishing off the painting of the frame.
Now to sort the  control panel out !

[tt1]

A really interesting, informative and detailed log Greg, looks a mighty fine model. What was the sound unit that you used from Dave, was it his 'noisy thing'? impressive, and the blue lense cover on the mast - is that one of the Maplin's led covers you mentioned?
      Appreciate the work that's gone into the mast .

                                  Hope the arm fully recovers ok, regards, Tony.

[gregk9]

Thanks for the comments. YES, it is the 2all singing/all dancing" sound system from Action. I was a bit wary of the price,but after hearing it for myself, i would be reluctant to use any other system now.
the base unit comes ready installed with "MAN diesel sound". the engines start up [individually] then tickover, then as you move the throttle, they rev up accordingly with a nice deep hum. If you then let the boat idel in the water for about 2 - 3 mins, the engines "shut down", but retstart as you again move the throttle stick.

I am desperately trying to source  some "cat 3408" sounds, as Action only have a unit in runing mode only, so soon as I can , I will upload the cat engine sound to the module.

Yes, the light lenses are the maplin ones I mentioned. Unfortunately they done do a blue lens, so I painted the inside of a clear lens with some tamiya "clear blue - x23" to colour tint the lens.
I then found by painting the outside top of all the lenses with some silver paint [to act as a reflector], then paint over the top, black, it reflects the wasted light back and through the lens, sideways, giving a better effect.

[tt1]

Thanks Greg, what are the 3408 cat sounds? scuse my ignorance - thought Action's unit did most things you could wish for, not that I understand these programmable and technical thingies mind you, complete dummy with electronics and things associated I'm afraid 

                                Regards, Tony.

[gregk9]

The Action sound module carries three  seperate "sound clips" for the  engine "sound"
1/ Startup
2/running
3/ shutdown

So for example the basic setup supplied comes with these 3 items pre programmed in to one  package, so the engine starts up, runs on tickover, rev's up with throttle stick and shuts down/off if the throttle is left for over 2 mins.

the "cat sound" is for a caterpillar engine, but currently Action only have a "wav sample" for a cat engine running only, with no startup/shutdown.


Its a "anorak thing", for those people who "know diesels", as there is such a difference between diesel engines, a lot of people can tell you what they are simply by listening to them, without seeing it. Gardner, Rolls Royce, Perkins, Cummins,Meadows,Caterpillar, Volvo, Scania, Detroit, to name but a few ALL have their own individual sound/tone.

RNLI currently use several engine manufacturers, including Caterpillar, Volvo and Scania, for example the Talus tractor uses a Scania diesel, the Mersey class uses twin Cat's [thats why id prefer to source the sound files]. Other forum members on here know far more than myuself on the engine types and fitments, but no doubts they have their own favorite diesel, that makes the hairs on the back of their neck stand up! [ha ha].

[tt1]

Thanks Greg for a full and informative answer, cheers, Tony

[gregk9]

"Lighting test" !

I have swaped the 6v wheatgrain bulbs out of the lamps [as supplied] as retrofitted with led's, firstly to lower power consumption and secondy, for a better visual effect at dusk sailing, or on "grey days".
the lamps are wired up as follows.
1/ deck lights
2/ forward cabin lamps
3/ flying bridge search lights.
4/ navigation lights
5/ stern spotlamp
6/ flashing blue beacon.

All will be wired up and available, via switches, so can run with any combination or ALL.

[gregk9]

Time to actually sort the upper cabin wiring out now, get rid of the birds nest thats accumulating and make it easier to remove/refit the upper cabin too.
Firstly, need to count ALL the cables that are necessary for all the lamps.
ok so we can make sure all but one of the negative leads link together, so that halves the number total in one easy sweep. Its easier to solder the earth leads together up in the upper cabin, that do so inside the hull, thats just a waste of cable.
So now we have a nice total of the wires, so to source a suitable connector. It will have to take a bit of handling, be easy to open and access if a cable breaks, have solder terminals [not screw], be of reasonable price in so much as you dont have to go out and buy a pack of 10.
I have used a 9 pin chassis connector, used in computing cables, they have a metal outer case, so will take a few knocks and the odd clout. it has soler terminals, can be screwed down to the deck and the other half of the connector comes with a clip together outer shroud to protect the wires from harm. readily available from Maplins and sold singly.

The only wires that do run seperate earth system is for the radar unit, as this only uses 3v, as all the rest is running 12v, so preferred to run seperately. The radar unit also has its own battery pack [see pic] this I mounted on the top of the electrical cover, purely for ease of replacement of the batteries, without having to haul the lot off, purely for a couple of "AA's". these test batteries will be replaced with some rechargeable one for longer use.

The main cable run from the stern of the upper cabin was routed from the main mast area, as this is where the majority of the cables drop down anyway, a few "joined the pack" as the harness runs past the rear cabin wall, so the searchlights and forward spot lamp wires drop donw here, rather than route down the front screen pillars. I ahve also left a couple of spare wires up there, as these will supply power to the flying bridge warning lamps and also for the roof instrument panel, which runs the full width of the interior cabin, [inside] above the internal steering position.
Its much easier to run all the wires in now and then wrap the cables in "spiral wrap", than try and add ones later.









The switches have also now been added to control some of the wiring that has been installed. The "pencil mark" is to denote the outer access line of the access hatch, so i dont put a switch where  I cant get at !








These last three pics show the flying bridge controls and the inner "roof panel" I am yet to construct and then "wire up".
Yes, the  forward inner sterering position, radio panel and navigation units will have lights/power too, but once i get to the insides again, its all in the pipe line yet.

[gregk9]

http://youtu.be/6KVI2z1n8JI

Took the Mersey out this afternoon for another test sailing, as still trying a bit of adjustment with main battery positions, seeing whats best to get the balance right. Admittidly its still yet to change as more fittings go on, especially all the railings etc, but always best to keep a check on things.

[tt1]

 Looks a treat Greg 

[gregk9]

thanks for your comment. To be honest, I've tried several times now, to run the boat with the sound system switched off, but it ust dont "sound" right, so quickly run it back to shore, lift the cover and switch the motors back on rapido !

the twin lipo pack system for motor power works just rigth and with the 50mm props on, it has a fair turn of speed, and "looks" to be about right [scake -ish] speed, being a "non planing" boat hull, I dotn wish to push it too far. the stern trim tabs are certanly doing their stuff and keeping the stern at the right depth ok, so under higher throttle openings, it does not drop the stern down too low in the water.
the trim tabs were set at "horizontal" to the keel line and think it seems about right for this setup. I was reluctant to try going negative with it, could not see the point, other than perhaps cause more battery drain.

[gregk9]

I have made up the cabin roof handrails tonight. making entirely out of plastic [rod, tube and sheet]. the main rails were made from 4mm solid plastic rod, bent at both ends, and then a further 3 [each side] support posts cut and the tops hollowed out with a round file, to make sure they fit around the main rail.
The base plates are discs of plastic, punch cut from some styrene sheet, with the centres also punch cut out ,to allow the main rod to pass through them and the cabin roof, to give better strength to the join.
I also added a small slice of hollow plastic rod, which was slid right down against the base plate flange, to replicate the tube to roof fitting.

[gregk9]

I was scanning throught the photo's I have of a mersey Lifeboat and came across a couple of the "gobeye", mounted on the stern. Quite an intricate little beast with curves and angles and pivots.
So After taking a few measuremants off the plans and by careful study of the pictures, this is "pt1" of 2 on its construction.
I firstly drew the outline on to some paper [ I chose yellow, as easier to see against white plasticard]. I added the radii with a compass and joined them all up. Once checked, I cut the template out for the main upright piece. This was transferred to some 2mm plasticard and the centres marked for the radii. These were then scored through with a compass cutter, making sure to draw the cutter around the shape on both sides, once the centre pin has made a "detent" on the reverse of the card. [it saves trying to mark the same point with a pencil on both sides AND being slightly out]!

I then cut out the inner blank and then cut off the excess card from its base. If you try and do this with the bottom line at the base of the styrene, you could easily snap the plastic whilst removing the inner scrap piece, so leave  this on untill after  the blanks is removed.
I then made up the base plate and bonded the two pieces together with plastic weld, checking the squareness as it dried.














This was left to dry overnight before continuing..............

[gregk9]

Now that the basic "frame" has fully set, I can firstly add the upper "thicker" sections, where the vertical pins go through, using plasticweld again for quickness and strength of bond. Once allowed to dry for a few minutes, I cut some thinner plasticard out to the correct width and gently ran then under a pencil to start a gently cure in them. then held inside the gobeye to get correct length before cutting to size. Then fixed in place with plastic weld. using a smaller piece i cut out of the rope access slot in the top piece I made the "overclip" piece, drilling the side plates so I can pass a piece of thin plastic rod through to replicate the swivel pins.  the inner "rope bar" was made from some solid plastic rod [4mm] the cross brace having its cut ends filed with a round file to make a snug fit against the two vetical pieces, again plasticweld being used for a deeper bond between them.
The item was again set aside to allow to dry fully, prior to making the clip pins and chain links.

[gregk9]

Sorry, but this "minor item" has widened in to a 3 piece build update. I have now drilled the posts and upper pin to make way for the clevis pins. A little bit of imagination and careful bending of some brass wire has made some "near enough" clips to put in to their respective places. I just have to source some suitable fine chain to link them up, the small piece i have fitted [in pic] is a bit over scale so is only for the photo only so to speak.
The gobeye will now get another 2 coats of paint to finish it off and whilst this is drying I will construct the "shaped" deck base for it to sit on.

[gregk9]

Just doing some tidying up on the forward engine cover hatches, so made up the retaining clips and holders for the hooks. oh and also made up the hooks too. I made these from hollow plastic tube and the heads from some plasticard, cutting a slot in the head of the tube to insert the tool head and bond well in. Final shaping of the tool heads took place once the glue had fully dried.

[gregk9]

I have now added the clevis pin chains and made up the actual "base" plate, which is curved to fit to the deck, but keep its upper face flat to accept the gobeye mounting plate.
The mounting plate will be bonded to the deck, but the gobeye will be left off untill the deck is painted its correct deck colour, saves a load of masking off.

[gregk9]

Been busy printing off another batch of photographs tonight, ready for the next few detailling sessions.
I have made up one of the flying bridge handrails however and attached to its location. I have managed to scale down a photo of the flying bridge engine control panel and have loosely put in place. I will fit this behind a clear perspex panel and seal down, then this will alow me provision to fit some fibre optics from underneath

[gregk9]

Whilst waiting for the glue to dry on another part of the build, Ive had a go at making the cable hawse to replicate those that drop off the bow for shore towing.
I was wandering round  a local DIY store and noticed their selection of galvanised wire cable, which got me to thinking............... So rather than just use some thick thread and paint it to simulate a wire rope, why not use the same thing? the cable is 2mm in diameter, so pretty flexible for this purpose and not too heavy also.
One major thing, the store did not have any cable eyes to fit inside the wire small enough !
Ok, time to rethink, till I spied my selection of plastic strip. I had some 7mm wide x 3mm think, so thick enough to file a decent groove in to, to allow the wire to gain purchase and fairly robust enough to drill the centre out too.
I first made a series of drill holes of differing diameters to make the cutting out easier. then carefully cut out the larger hole by "joining the dots". I then cut the strip piece to length before carefully rough cutting the larger round end with a sharp knife and finishing off with a file to get a smooth curve.
I then cut the angles/tapered sides down to a narrow point.
Picking up a small round file, it was easy work to gently cut the groove in to the plastic to allow the cable to sit inside it.
The end of the cable was gently bent in to rough shape with some pliers and held against the part. I then used some black thread to bind the cable together, adding a few drops of superglue to hold it. Once dry I slid over a piece of heatshrink tubing and gently heated it with the tip of a soldering iron, so as not to overheat the pl;astic insert and deform it, so no use of a gently open flame here, unlike when covering electrical wire joins.

Once painted, i think it will be ok and look the part. ive not cut the cable to length yet, as I am yet to make the retaining clamp for the deck, so have made a similar "end" on the other end of the cable, ready to attach to the forward keel hole, ready to pass through the roller on the bow deck.

[morgsy]

I have been watching this thread for some time and i just wanted to say that your craftsmanship is second to none, superb build so far...great boat.

Keep the pics and posts coming...

[gregk9]

Many thanks for your comments, they are appreciated. I am no expert by any means. I dont have ultra deep pockets to afford the best or the most expensive, but I survive and "make do".  Yes it may be great to work in Brass, but its the cost and expense these days, its no longer a cheap commodity to work with, even I keep all the offcuts for "weighing in", afterall it all mounts up, you would be surprised.
This is only my Thrid "scratch build", but enjoying it greatly. Its a "challenge" and I like a good challenge to keep me focussed.

[irishcarguy]

There is no reason to spend hard earned money when you can make a part that well in the first place. The hobby is really about the sheer pleasure of beating the odds & getting to where you wanted to be when you started. You are getting close to being finished now Greg & it is looking like you have built yourself a very nice boat. How is your arm doing these days, just asking,hope it is O/K now. Mick B.

[gregk9]

Hi Mick, many thanks for your response too, it is appreciated. the nerves in my arm & hand will take a long time to heal and "hopefully" [everything crossed] repair. nerves are very delicate  things, bit like a remote servo link rod, its ok when first installed, but a "xxxxx" to replace once the thing has been built round!
Currently, I have nerve sensation in my fingers for a few hours a day, after that, they are just numb and as if the hand is "someone elses" [ha ha], but the time I have nerve sensation for is getting longer , so heres hoping.

[gregk9]

Appologies for no update yet, but unfortunately one of my other scale boats {sun tug} took a hit broadsides  off a brushless racing boat at our clubs sailing pool. On inspecting the hull, ive found a hairline crack in the glass fibre, so will need to strip the internals out and do a full inspection, once i really feel like doing so. Its a real hurt when you spend over 15 months building a boat for someone who has taken 2 weeks to make a boat, destroy yours  in less than a seconds lack of thought.