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[gregk9]

K100RS special edition ABS. Too heavy for me and too fast. After Brunstrom biking no fun anymore. Can't really get done on a Bullet!!
Agree about Coniston. Windermere too many grockles.

[ooyah/2]

Jerry.
Visited Bowness on Windermere last year, it's a positive tip, stinks of Viniger and chips.
Coniston much better, let me know if you ever go up and I will meet you with my K7, always wanted to sail it on Coniston.
If you do go take plenty of coins as you can't break wind without parking charges, don't think that I have ever seen so many parking meters.

The launch with the steam plant sat in looks really good, can only say the same words said to Patternmaker on his build of Wide Awake , Super Duper.!!!!!!!!

If you need a piece of 1.5" copper tube let me know and I will post you a bit, with that dia you could incorporate a boiler water feed heater using the exhaust steam.

Well done .
George.

[gregk9]

George, PM sent.

[boatmadman]

Hi,

Very nice work you are doing there, keep it up.

for the decking, think about alternating mahogany and lime, it gives a nice contrast. I have found that 5mm mahogany then 2 mm lime etc looks really nice.

Ian

[gregk9]

Sunrise today over Snowdon. The sun is  moving north every day now.
The last few days spent completing the forward cockpit floors and carlins. I had to adjust the port inner carlin to clear the feed pump and de-oiler tank support. The servo drive, feed pump and de-oiler tank all had to be raised 1/2" to stop them fouling the hull planks. All ok now.
  Next I made up and fitted the aft cockpit raised floors and carlins. This went a bit quicker than the for'd end.
The steam plant is supported on the floors and, as it is set down into the floors by 3/8", it is also located athwartships by the floor shoulders. Now that I can fit the plant in its correct position wrt the driven end of the propshaft I am able to sort out the means of coupling the engine flywheel to the shaft. The crankshaft is horizontal and the propshaft has a down angle. I have considered using 2 cardan type couplings but don't have the room and it would require the steam plant to be too far for'd. I also need to be able to easily remove the whole steam plant tray for re-fueling, cleaning and lubeing without messing around with fiddly couplings so this is what I have come up with. I call it a double dog drive cos I don't know the correct term. It's one up from the old bent wire on old wind up clockwork boats of my youth. I'm not sure if it's beefy enough but I generally over engineer things so I'm hopefull!!



I started out by marking the position of the dogs on the flywheel, then drilled and tapped two holes for M3 screws. The holes go right through but the thread stops just short of the for'd face of the flywheel. Next I put the screws in the lathe and turned the heads and threads away leaving a small slot on the end for a screwdriver. A bit of loctite down the holes and on the threads and screwed them in until the ends were binding on the ends of the threads in the flywheel. These will not come out!!!! If they break I'll drill new holes and go up to M4.





Now for the propshaft. I made a yoke gizmo out of old brass hinge to take the dogs and transmit the drive to the propshaft. I didn't like looking at all that exposed thread so found a bit of hex with an M4 thread through it to fill in the gap. The yoke also has a thread so the hex and the nylock nut can all be locked together. I will loctite or possibly silver solder at a later date.


And to end, I fitted two brass prongs into the boat that the steam plant slides back onto to lock the aft end of the plant. The forward end drops down behind an extra floor and is held down and locked by a miniature brass bolt I made which is pickling in coke as I type.



A kind Mayhemer donated some 1 1/2" copper pipe with which I will make an improved de-oiler.

Jerry.

[kiwimodeller]

Jerry, it appears that you have put the flywheel dogs through holes in the propshaft yoke? If so I have found in the past that it is better to just leave the propshaft crossbar floating between the dog pins, in effect giving half a turn of slack in the drive but also leaving room for a great deal of misalignment between crankshaft and prop shaft. This system also helps make it easy to pull the steam plant out and quick to put it back. I also leave a head on the dogs and slip a piece of teflon or similar hard plastic tubing over them before installing. This quietens any noise from the coupling and saves wear on the dogs. Hope this is of help, regards, Ian.

[gregk9]

Thanks for the tip Ian. I have made a note about it. Yours is my fallback position. I thought of having a larger yoke and putting servo mounting rubbers in the holes, but thought I'd give my way a try first. My method of finding ways to do things is to get many solutions and then test each for good practise and then go for the most elegant solution. This is not my own Idea, I copied it off a local guy, also coincidently called Ian and he has been ok with it. I accept there will be axial wear on the pins but check out the name of the boat!! It's an Aussie built boat (1980ish) named after the owner/builder, though I don't know how it's pronounced. (ware or weir). Does anyone out there know?
kindest regards
Jerry.

[gregk9]

I've been thinking ahead, (just put 1st coat of resin on the inside so at a loose end until the fumes die down), considering ships name lettering. Original launch has, on the transom, about 2" high brass letters. The kind that are held on by 2 countersunk brass screws. viz. S L WEAR, and on each bow in black painted letters the same. I don't think the brass lettering will scale down with the screws and don't fancy self adhesive backed brass letters cos they are usually anodised ali. In addition, the mahogany of the hull when varnished is very dark, I think too dark to have black letters. Now, If she had been built for me, I would have specified transfers, gold with black edges  for the transom and gold with white edges for the bows. This model IS for me so that's what I want! Question. Who can make them for me? Help please

[Reg Hinnant]

Hi Jerry,
I have a very good friend who is a world champion scale R/C aircraft builder, who lives in High Wycombe.
Here is who he uses for all masks & transfers on his aircraft. Give them a ring and describe what you are wanting.
http://www.flightlinegraphics.com/index.htm
Tell them Richard Crapp refered them to you. 
Reg

[gregk9]

Reg, transfer info well received and much appreciated thanks.
I don't seem to have achieved much since the last post. I have spent a lot of time just sitting and thinking. More time just sitting!! Also I keep having to go to Aldi/Lidle (Adle) to buy things on special offer. Today was the bench grinder. I gave mine away years ago thinking I'd never need one again.
   So, made up and fitted bottom boards.



 They are removable for cleaning under.

Then I made a doubler for the transom. Here's the rub. The full size boat hasn't got one. The side elevation hints at one but I thought maybe a thin veneer of mahogany on a cheaper wood until I noticed the rudder pintles are set into the transom so must be a doubler???



The end elevation shows no doubler either but it also shows no geralding which full size boat has.



 Decided that as I had been forced to extend the transom upwards due to making a radish of it when I built it into the hull, I would fit the doubler which covers my error nicely.  I made a card template of the transom as is and transfered the doubler outline onto a frame of mahogany glued up so as to get the grain in the right directions.



 Cut it out on the scroll saw and pinned and glued it to the transom.



In between all this I made a few brass fittings on the lathe.viz the jackstaff, foremast and ensign staff sockets.
   
A kind mayhemmer is making me an engine driven feed pump, so I have ditched the oversize and cumbersome servomotor driven pump. I have returned the burner to the vertical position to make space for the pump to be driven off the forward end of the crankshaft. I had planned to redo all the pipework anyway so no loss.
  And finally, I made a start on the deck by making a former to laminate the fore and aft deck beams on.


 
I'm laminating rather than steaming, because the sheerline  moved a bit when I put the sheerclamps in. I only got one side in on one day and had to leave it overnight and this has resulted in a slight distortion which I think I can pull out/in when I fit the beams.



 The recent post about the need to lay a ply subdeck has got me worried cos I was going to fit the deck planks without one as on the fullsize boat and have not left a space for it. Anyone successfully done it without a sub-deck? Was horrified to see one used on the Cutty Sark the other day!! I suppose though one must move with the times?

[Reg Hinnant]

Jerry,
some of the active R/C racing sailboat builders over here do it without a subdeck. They swear that is the only way to actively use the model (for racing) on the water without the planks lifting due to water eventually getting under the plank. They seal the planks with coats of varnish. Granted it is an activity that creates some stress on the model.
A subdeck makes the planking job easier.

But with your skills you don't need one!

  not everyone will agree with me.  

[gregk9]

This week a few more non modelling activities interfered with progress on the build. I managed to get the deck supports fabricated and fitted. Very time consuming as had to make 48 ickle joints. Things speeded up a lot after it dawned on me I hadn't made a stand for the boat. Using frames No's 3 and 7 as guides I knocked one up and, with new stand clamped to the bench, things were much easier. I still have a little shaping to do in order that planks will lie evenly supported along their lengths.





I have been waiting for some tiny brass lead blocks to arrive from RB Models in Poland. I wanted to arrange for the rudder servo to also turn the wheel all same patternmaker. The steering had to be sorted before I laid the deck planks. Somebody posted a link on MBM recently to RB models and I thought I'd give them a try. I ordered shackles, blocks and bottle screws. They arrived this morning. It is apparent that I ordered shackles too big and blocks too small! The swivel eye on the blocks is too small for the shackle pin and anyway not substantial enough for the job I had in mind. Rather than wait any longer I decided to modify the shackle bows to fit between the block cheeks. I should also take this opportunity to praise RB's product. The blocks come in kit form as shown here.



If I hadn't had a carefull look through the magnifying glass I would have missed the sheave pins entirely. Imagine my surprise when I realised one pin fitted inside the other. A tiny drop of cyano secures them together.




When I went in for my tea there was a message on the answering machine from Asda opticians saying my new glasses are ready. I could really have done with them when assembling the blocks!!!!!

I made four ringbolts using xmas tree decoration hooks and secured the blocks through the sheerclamp on the port side. The shackle pins are moused with a single strand of brass picture hanging wire. The steering "wire" is actually non stretch synthetic left over from my Parat build. I have to have everything on the port side because there is an access door in the stbd side of the transverse bulkhead just aft of the engine. So I filled the stern tube with grease with a syringe



 and then fitted the shaft, propeller and coupling and secured everything with loctite. Next I fitted the rudder after trimming the pintles to size then secured a section of 4BA threaded rod through the head of the rudder stock. I made a tiller fitting out of brass tube with an eye plate screwed through a slot in the end of the tube, then epoxied the tube to the rod. A block of sapele screwed and epoxied to the transom supports the aft end of the servo and a smaller block will be epoxied to the underside of the aft deck beam to support the forward end of the servo. It will be a corker of a job if I ever have to replace the servo. Must test it before I fit the deck!!

[gregk9]

I have had a frustrating week, having had my attention diverted a lot by things other than laying the deck. However I finally got it all down this morning. Before I started I expected a pretty simple, straight forward job. Thirty straight planks with 20thou plasticard strips in between. How hard can it be?? Answer, five days worth!!!! I started off by making quite sure that the Samson post was dead central. Next I ran two lines, one each side of the stem and samson post to an imaginary stem on the top of the transom. I checked that the max beam to lines distances on each side were equal and marked the center line on the forward and after beams and stem and transom.  I cut 4mm strips of black plasticard and glued bits of these around the samson post and stem at plank level using cyo. Then I planed and thicknessed a load of oak to 9mm thick stock then sawed a 5mm thick plank off the stock and put to one side. I re-planed the cut edge of the stock and then sawed another 5mm plank. I repeated these cuts until I had enough planks. I then thicknessed all the planks to 4mm. So now I have plenty of 9mmx4mm planks and a load of 4mm plasticard strips. I should then have been a simple job to fit the port and starboard center pairs of planks and carry on laying all the planks. Not so!! I realised that the final effect depended on very accurate positioning of the first central pairs of planks so I spent most of the rest of the day cutting the reliefs for the stem and samson post. I also filed flats on the top surface of the beams and chamfered the edges of the planks so there were no gaps and no rocking on the beams. I cyoed a plasticard strip to the edge of one plank fore and aft and glued them in position using polyurethane glue and repeated the operation with the second pair of planks. Before the glue went off I made a final check all in position and ok using 1 meter rule as a straight edge. All A1.
          Next morning I removed the clamps and cleaned off the excess glue and prepared the next pairs of planks and cyoed the plastic strips to them and glued the pairs of planks in position outboard of the first pairs. Wait 4 hours and repeat. This means only 2 pairs of planks per day = 15 days!! No way. So I changed to cyo and this moved things along a pace I managed 4 pairs per day until clear to the edge of the afterdeck. Then when holding a plank down on the plastic strip when glueing it to the plank I superglued the finger tips of both hands to the bench. I've lost count of the number of times I've done that before!! However this was the first time I couldn't get them off!!! Warm water, that's what I need. It's in the kettle, left over from last cup of tea. The kettle is over on the other bench but my bench is secured to the floor. Sound proof workshop and wife in bed til 1700 as on night duty. So I ended up free but with finger tips left on bench and very sore fingers. Fingers too sore to do any work over weekend. Wife says they use cyo to suture wounds so I put a load on. Wish she'd told me how much it hurts. It did stop the bleeding though.
         When I was nearing the time when I could lay one plank from forward to aft I started to check the f&a alignment and found it more than 1/4" out both sides and it looked as though I was going to have an extra half width plank on one side. How could I be that far out and could I recover the situation? So from this point on I had to make adjustments to each plank by tapering it just enough so as not to be noticeable to get them to line up and to alter the width so that both sides are symmetrical. If I'm honest I didn't quite succeed. However, when the canopy is fitted one can't see both sides at once so not too noticeable except to me!!
    Any way this is what she looks like now.

Nice tight and square edges.



Rest of today spent preparing the foot rails and rubbing strakes from 6mmx4mm mahogany strips. I hope to fit them in next couple of days??
Jerry.

[ooyah/2]

Sorry Jerry, it's just not good enough, all you have done is left the door open for all the rivet counters, to try and find fault.

Get a life man it's beautiful, all that work with a bench glued to your fingers, I ask you, what it would look like with both hands free.

Your skills with wooden boat building is immense, wish I could build to that standard.

George.

[steamboatmodel]

Jerry,
Working with Cyno is like working with fire. When I teach Scouts how to start a fire we tell them that the first thing is to have some way of putting it out, The same with Cyno I buy one bottle of Cyno and two of the release/debonder. Having said that I won't tell the number of times I have stuck my self.
Regards,
Gerald.

[gregk9]

Yesterday I made a start on toe rails and rubbing strakes. Used Kitty to mill 4 x 1 meter lengths of 6mmx4mm  and 2 x 15mmx4mm mahogany. I cut the freeing ports in the after toe rails by setting table saw blade height at 3mm and running the 2 lengths of 6x4 taped together over the blade many times. I then clamped these in position flush with the deck edge then ran thin cyo along the join. 5 minutes then remove the clamps and wipe off the excess. Ready almost immediately to plane and sand the outboard edge of the rail until all flush with sheerplank. Next I cut the forward 15x6 forward toe rails to shape and cut the fairleads in each piece. Into the steam plant, (kettle) for 20 mins. When I tried to bend them they broke in way of the fairlead. I made another pair out of the left over stock but left out the fairleads with the idea of doing them when rails secured. After steaming again I tried to bend them. Result, failure again. Experimented with steam iron with a small improvement but still no good. Remembered someone suggesting window cleaner so whizzed the wife's Mr Muscle (with vinegar) window spray. Gave it a go and wow success!! I succeeded in bending a piece around a flower pot of roughly the right radius. I have left it clamped overnight and all  today.
pair
       Now over a month ago I prepared the wood for the cockpit coaming. I placed it across two supports and put two bricks in the middle. In a month the mahogany has bent only 30 degrees. So armed with the window cleaner I put the coaming wood across the laundry basket mouth, put three bricks in a waste paper bucket of the correct radius and placed the bucket on the planks. Gave the wood a good spray of window cleaner every half hour until evening. Opened up the workshop to find the bucket in the bottom of the laundry basket having put a lovely bend in the planks. Today I have been nipping the sides of the basket together with a clamp and am nearly at the correct width.
     

 Today I fitted the rubbing strakes. The brass pins will be covered later with 3mm bass 1/2 round.



     

This morning my new engine driven feed pump arrived. I'm very pleased with it. So I'm going to take a break from the boat and get the steam plant boxed off. I made a start by removing the boiler ,gas tank and engine from the tray. Out 0f a 13 amp plug pin I cut, ground and filed a lever to attach to the reversing selector shaft for a servo to act on. I removed the spring steel reversing rod from the engine. I turned down the brass handle until it was a good fit in the plug pin and soft soldered it together. I had filed a step on the pin to locate the lever on the link connector. I reversed the spring steel rod and replaced it in the engine but with the detent bar swung through 180 degrees so now the rod slides on the smooth side of the detent bar. Fitted a clevis and now I have a simple reversing control. 

[gregk9]

Today spent tidying the workshop and rearranging things to get going on the steam plant.
I stripped the boiler and gas tank off the tray. Noticed the screws holding the gas tank down were very rusty so cleaned them up and will use a bit of copperslip when replacing. I slid the eccentric onto the forward end of the crankshaft until the boss made light contact with the inner race on the crankshaft ball bearing and nipped up the grubscrew. As expected the strap fouls the base of the tray. Easy enough to scribe around the strap in order to mark for a cutout later. I also marked the up-stand in way of the ram to cut out a space for this. Removed the engine and drilled  the four corners of the cut out for the strap and then cut it out with the scroll saw. Next I cut a piece out of the up-stand to clear the ram. Replaced the engine and pump assembly and clamped one side of the pump mount and drilled for one of the bolts. Fitted said bolt and tightened it, removed clamp and drilled for the other bolt. Finally bolted it all up. Offered the tray up to the boat and immediately it became obvious that it would not fit with the pump body vertical. So removed top clamp and made a small cut out in way of a locking screw head then rotated pump through 90deg and clamped it up. Had to remove a few bits of boat under the bottom boards and a small area of the boards themselves and it all went in nicely.
      Next I refitted the boiler and found the eccentric strap fouled under the burner so moved the boiler 3/8" forward and secured it. Still plenty of room for the gas tank and I'm replacing all the pipework anyway so no hardship. As a belt and braces precaution  my friend also made a plain outrigger bearing to support the end of the crankshaft. My original measurements were incorrect but on the large side so he made the bearing a little higher and so a simple job to draw it along a flat file on the bench until it slid on easily. Clamped it and drilled for the two bolts before securing it. No tight spots so very pleased with the days work. The pump is 3/16" bore and 3/8" stroke so it's looks so much better than my original servo driven system and all together a very elegant solution.

[gregk9]

Can some body tell me what happened to my pictures? If I click on the red cross I can see them but others apparently can't.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

I can see post 90.  Cannot see any on post 91  (if you did any)

Hope this helps

ken

[Netleyned]

I can see all three by clicking on the icons on post 91.

Ned

[derekwarner]

Guys....here is post 91  .....

This is the third attempt  @ posting........the same  ......

[derekwarner]

duplicated ....server issue....................

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Hi Derek

Still can't see any extras to post 91. No Red X's.  There's just a gap. 

Perhaps Jerry could post again ?

ken

[derekwarner]

Hullo Ken.........

following is the first RED X that I viewed from post 91 from Jerry.............Derek

[gregk9]

I had a power cut the other day and so windows got shut down incorrectly. There are now a few things different on my browser which I don't understand yet but will sort when I get a mo. Also changed but before power cut is model boating index, column 2 was a black sheaf of papers but these are now grey???
Anyway I will attempt to put the pics to accompany#91.







Fingers crossed.