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[nhp651]

yeh, any will do kenny, even pink marigolds......it's just to stop the stickyness of the glue....... and leaving black stains on your fingers.........it's worse than superglue for getting everywhere......it's a bit like the filler foam that plumbers use, and just as sticky, lol

[nhp651]

and I think you can see the glue foaming out on these two shots of the second boat I glued up this afternoon...I sort of ran out o' batteries half way through and had to use more tape and 13mm picture frame pins to glue the rest of the deck down......hopefully by tomorrow afternoon will be able to start cleaning it all up, including the skegss and bilge keels etc.

[Welsh Wizard]

just for YOU Ken......http://www.gorillaglue.com/LinkClick.aspx?link=pdfs%2FGGSpecifications07.pdf&tabid=74&mid=443


Dave

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Great info Dave.   

We'd better leave Neil to his Blog.       Hopefully we shall see pictures of the result.

                 

Ken

 

[nhp651]

no, you go ahead kenny.....all this sort of info is relevent and I'm quite happy for it to be discussed on this thread.any knowledge is helpful to all readers and I have no problems with that.
neil.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

What a nice man .................

My problem was in joining two sheets of plasicard.     ie;  Connecting a largish box to the deck.

I washed both surfaces with a brushed on liquid 'Plastiweld' and slammed the two together quickly  (high evaporation time) and the joint was instantaneous. The result was rather good but as I couldn't move them, it was just luck they were in the correct position.  I would have liked a longer setting time, enough to swivel if needed to line up. 

Maybe your Gorilla (or substitute) glue might be a better solution. I just wondered if it's thickness would be a problem ?

Ken

[nhp651]

I've never tried it with plastics but it does say on the bottle that it will glue plastics together, so no harm in trying......anyone else used it on plastics????

[Welsh Wizard]

I Have and Guess what ...............it is Dammed good,glued a bait boat which was a plastic abs and there is NO way you can separate the 2 halves.

Now don't laugh I have used it also on plastic bumpers in work and it does what a lot of other glues have Failed


Dave

[gingyer]

I have been reading this thread with interest can you tell me though
What is a "sonic sander"  and give more information please

thanks

Colin

[Talisman]

What a nice man .................

My problem was in joining two sheets of plasicard.     ie;  Connecting a largish box to the deck.

I washed both surfaces with a brushed on liquid 'Plastiweld' and slammed the two together quickly  (high evaporation time) and the joint was instantaneous. The result was rather good but as I couldn't move them, it was just luck they were in the correct position.  I would have liked a longer setting time, enough to swivel if needed to line up.  

Maybe your Gorilla (or substitute) glue might be a better solution. I just wondered if it's thickness would be a problem ?

Ken

Hi Ken, ideally you want the two parts to be together then bleed the glue in .. capilialry reaction ... brings back school day nightmares ...
An easier glue if you want to reposition  / slide plasticard (HIPS STYRENE) would be deluxe matelials Canopy glue or their craft glue / rc modelers glue.
An advantage of these is that the remain ever so slightly elastic after curing.
I have Boats 15 years plus old that show no signs of fatigue using these glues where uhu has long since failed.

I can't comment on Gorilla glue i have no experience.
Regards
Kim

[Talisman]

An interesting link -

http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/pages/boathelp.htm

[nhp651]

I have been reading this thread with interest can you tell me though
What is a "sonic sander"  and give more information please

thanks

Colin

Hi Colin.....this is the beasty.......comes with a wodge of tungsten and diamond tipped blades as well as scrapers, saw blades and has a multiple of uses......but my god, it rips through grp like butter......I am very impressed with it.....best thing I've bought in yonks.
neil.

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-tools/sawing/multi-purpose-saws/multi_purpose_saws/Worx-SoniCrafter-250W-Oscillating-Tool-11097504?ecamp=cse_go&tmcampid=4&tmad=c&CAWELAID=656841553

[gingyer]

Thanks Neil
Will be looking to get one of those

Colin

[nhp651]

they are a nice bit o' kit, colin

[RaaArtyGunner]

Hi Colin.....this is the beasty.......comes with a wodge of tungsten and diamond tipped blades as well as scrapers, saw blades and has a multiple of uses......but my god, it rips through grp like butter......I am very impressed with it.....best thing I've bought in yonks.
neil.

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-tools/sawing/multi-purpose-saws/multi_purpose_saws/Worx-SoniCrafter-250W-Oscillating-Tool-11097504?ecamp=cse_go&tmcampid=4&tmad=c&CAWELAID=656841553

Neil,

Good video.
Impressive tool, no doubt something similar is available in OZ if not get from UK

[Netleyned]

Aldi and Lidl have there own versions from time to time at about £40 if memory serves me right

Ned

[nhp651]

they do ned, but lightweight stuff......I tend to buy as good as I can afford.

[nhp651]

the decks have now all been fitted, and I'm just waiting for the deck on the HF Bailey to cure before taking the tapes and weights off before trimming up.

the edges of the deck to bulwarks have been trimmed with a nice sharp bevelled edge chisel and then filled with polyester filler. the start has been made to trim around the cockpit accesses and one one of the shots can be seen a scrap piece of 1.8mm ply that acts as a support for the two pieces of the deck ( port and starboard pieces) to mate up to each other without any sagging of either side.

But the thing that always every time gets to me about a classic lifeboat is the beautiful sheerline of the bulwarks top from bow to stern.....such a gracefull and yet business like and powerfull shape to them..and these three are no exception.

To me they are far more graceful than the modern fast afloat boats, and although not as powerful, fast or safe to be in..they still went out in the same dreadfully awful and pitiless seas that the modern boats with all their protection can muster, to do one thing...and that was to put their own lives on a knife edge to save others.........and it gives me unbelievable pride to be able to re create models of these boats for pleasure.

The whole of each boat will now be sanded and got ready for a few coats of paint.

neil.

[furball]

But the thing that always every time gets to me about a classic lifeboat is the beautiful sheerline of the bulwarks top from bow to stern.....such a gracefull and yet business like and powerfull shape to them..and these three are no exception.

My son thought this quote might be appropriate:

'It is a noble service which a life boat is intended for, so the design ought to convey a sense of dignity and power, also it should be pleasing to look at, with beauty of proportions and form, and even colour' - J.R. Barnett, 1933

Lance

[nhp651]

I couldn't sum it up half as well, Lance.

neil.

[Norseman]

The whole of each boat will now be sanded and got ready for a few coats of paint.

Hi Neil

You said to pipe up where needed - so very briefly for newbies like me - what is your process pre that first undercoat.
Sorry if it seems obvious to everyone but if I can get it right the first time then I will do so everytime.
Plus I have just removed the old paint from a hull (the undercoat could have protected a space shuttle).

Dave

[RaaArtyGunner]

Neil,

In the photo with the ply reinforcing the butt joint, would it be any advantage to make the "reinforcing" piece full length and glue it at each end.
It would increase joint strength and stiffness.

[nhp651]

Hi Neil

You said to pipe up where needed - so very briefly for newbies like me - what is your process pre that first undercoat.
Sorry if it seems obvious to everyone but if I can get it right the first time then I will do so everytime.
Plus I have just removed the old paint from a hull (the undercoat could have protected a space shuttle).

Dave

I'll be using 120 grit to get rid of all the filler first, Dave , and then gradually work down with wet and dry through 240, 400 and 800 grade to get the hull smooth..then I'll give it a couple of coats of filler primer ( goes on orange) and rub down again, then onto grey primer which will show up any irregularities and scratches, fill with filler putty, and rub down again, before spraying with Glacier white.....it's a slightly off creamy white that the older boats were painted in, or green anti fouling as per Mary Stanford, and finally the blue....not Ford galaxy blue as in the modern boats, but a lighter blue and just at the mo. I forget the exact colour but have it written down.. the top coats I'll just give coats until I have the deapth of colour I want.
others will have their own way of painting/spraying, and I cannot comment on what others do, but that process is not my favorite, but it has to be done, lol.

[nhp651]

Neil,

In the photo with the ply reinforcing the butt joint, would it be any advantage to make the "reinforcing" piece full length and glue it at each end.
It would increase joint strength and stiffness.

I should have done, and god knows why I didn't. (bit of a brain freeze really at the moment in time),  but the only saving grace in this is that when the printed planked deck overlays are glued to the decks there will be a centre "king plank" running down the centre of the boat, about 15 mm wide, which the two sides of the deck will butt up to, and this will glue and hold the two butted joints of the main deck together and lie on top of the joint making it totally watertight. It will also elliviate that problem that someone mentioned a few days ago about how you get a sheet of ply to bend in two different directions at the same time...you don't without difficulty.

[Norseman]

Sorry Neil

I should have stated wood prep - but I see you will use printed planked deck overlays

Dave