Topic: Building the ALASKA (Read 95344 times)

Kerrsy · « **Reply #125 on:** November 18, 2012, 10:47:22 am »

Dave, glad your back and please fell free to comment.

Derek, yes it is good to preserve the look of an old boat but in this instance I'm replicating a working steam ship on the Thames in the 21st cent.
and it has to include modern mods. I can't make an exact replica but can make it as authentic as it is now.
I'm afraid I'm not a purist, I was the same when I used to rebuild old 60's motor bikes.
I would embrace modern technology and fit electronic ignition I could then ride my bikes with out the tool kit I used to have to carry in my leathers during the 60's.
Concourse is great in preservation and I applaud those who can spend the time getting every nut and bolt authentic but I'm sorry that's not me.
Below are some pictures of Alaska's engine room to explain.
best wishes, Alan

[size=78%] [/size]

derekwarner · « **Reply #126 on:** November 18, 2012, 11:51:49 am »

mmmmmmm

. not sure if Her Majesty whilst riding on Alaska recently ....looked down & said........

"thats a nice toothed timing belt driving the Prestolite alternator"
Bearing in mind I do understand that your Monarch....VR2 was a motor mechanic during the latter part of WW11

....Derek

southsteyne2 · « **Reply #127 on:** November 19, 2012, 07:52:25 am »

The asthetics side apart have you tried the hull in water yet with all mechanicals? maybe I am wrong but looks like a stability problem on the horizon perhaps a well for the engine to lower cog can't wait to see the yarrow boiler in action

John

Kerrsy · « **Reply #128 on:** November 19, 2012, 02:52:23 pm »

John
No not yet but with the batteries and other equip the weight[size=78%] will be low down[/size]
If not it can sit on the lovely stand I made for it.

Kerrsy · « **Reply #129 on:** January 18, 2013, 04:51:52 pm »

Yes I'm still here but with all the A level projects going on I've been a bit busy
I have had a bit of time to make the end caps and will fit them shortly

Roll on the warmer weather so I can get back in the Garage.

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #130 on:** January 21, 2013, 02:44:16 pm »

Quote from: Kerrsy on January 18, 2013, 04:51:52 pm

Yes I'm still here but with all the A level projects going on I've been a bit busy
I have had a bit of time to make the end caps and will fit them shortly

Roll on the warmer weather so I can get back in the Garage.

C'mon Alan,
With all of this snow and you being snowed in the heat from your torch should warm up the garage, so get cracking with that Yarrow Boiler, this is ideal weather for boiler making.

George.

Norseman · « **Reply #131 on:** January 21, 2013, 04:06:27 pm »

Quote from: Kerrsy on January 18, 2013, 04:51:52 pm

Roll on the warmer weather so I can get back in the Garage.

At your age summer should be exclusively reserved for erhem active pursuits

Wrap up well and get in the garage.

Dave

Kerrsy · « **Reply #132 on:** February 23, 2013, 12:11:33 pm »

Thank you Gentlemen for your warm wishes
I have in actual fact been using the time to produce more scale drawings of the boat.
I'm very lucky that the owner allows me to go aboard and take pictures and measurements.
It does mean a trip to Marlow but that's the price you have to bear!!

I've made a scale model of the cabin in cardboard and it seems to fit

The next step is to make it out of Teak, I've managed to buy a sheet from the timber merchant at a cost of £48.00
It is 7' long by 8" wide and 3/8" thick. I'm hoping to be able to cut it down the middle to give me 2 sheet of 1/8" thickness

I'll let you know how I get on

Alan

derekwarner · « **Reply #133 on:** February 23, 2013, 12:36:01 pm »

Goodness Kersey.....

this is a tall order.... "It is 7' long by 8" wide and 3/8" thick. I'm hoping to be able to cut it down the middle to give me 2 sheet of 1/8" thickness"
Unless you have some industrial wood working machinary at your home workshop.........I would be inclinded to ask a timber miller to section it for you

....& even they may suggest cutting the plank in 1/2 [3' 6"] x two..........Derek

Kerrsy · « **Reply #134 on:** February 23, 2013, 02:39:20 pm »

Hi Derek
I should explain that I have a part time job as a technician at a school and they have all the machinery I require.
It's one of the reasons I'm still working, but If I do fail we have a tame wood mill next door.

Life don't get better that that.

Alan

steamboatmodel · « **Reply #135 on:** February 23, 2013, 02:56:11 pm »

It sounds like you have an ideal setup, wish I could find one like that.
Regards,
Gerald.

Quote from: Kerry link=topic=35404.msg423572#msg 423572 date=1361630360

Hi Derek
I should explain that I have a part time job as a technician at a school and they have all the machinery I require.
It's one of the reasons I'm still working, but If I do fail we have a tame wood mill next door.

Life don't get better that that.

Alan

Kerrsy · « **Reply #136 on:** July 04, 2014, 08:21:18 pm »

Hi all
Just to let you know I'm still here and have just got back to the model after a long lay off.

I've published a video of the water control system for my boiler if any one is interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ai3-mqegRUc

derekwarner · « **Reply #137 on:** July 04, 2014, 10:36:40 pm »

Great progress Kerrsy

........I see you are using a 9 volt supply for your boiler feed pump........what sort of volume do you get against the boiler pressure?

I found the as supplied Microcosm DC motor/gearbox very noisy so replaced it with a similar but quieter drive....abet possibly too slow @ 70 RPM in 12volt...have also mounted a 4 mm diameter 300 series stainless ZZ bearing in a plummer block on the output shaft to help with alignment strain

This is an auxiliary is the auxiliary, as I have mounted another Microcosm pump on the paddle shaft axis and am estimating it will operate at approx. 120 to 150 RPM

Would be most interested to see your progress with this............Derek

Kerrsy · « **Reply #138 on:** July 05, 2014, 10:23:35 am »

Hi Derek
It never ceases to amaze me the ingenuity of how to put a pump in a boat or engine.
Fantastic design Derek, congratulations.

I'm in the early stages of setting up the motor and just put a 9v battery on it as I came to hand !

I did find that it was not enough to feed at a constant so will experiment with higher voltage
but max for the circuit board is 12v that should, according to the spec from Microcosm, give me 12V No-load speed 400 rpm torque 2KG.CM

I'm not an electrician and don't know if I can up the voltage more than 12v without damaging the components?
maybe some one could tell me if I sent them the spec?
Cheers - Alan

geoff p · « **Reply #139 on:** July 05, 2014, 11:07:25 am »

Hi Alan,
I've just watched your video and it seemed to me you are "pushing the envelope" with that little 9V battery - not because of its volts but because those wee fellas are not intended to provide a lot of current (Amps)

Ignoring my own advice, I once had a very similar set-up; up the volts to overcome the motor struggling, and upped it again and let all the Magic Smoke out of the motor. And it's damned near impossible to replace the motor in those geared units.

Use a better battery, one that CAN supply some current, like the proverbial Lead Acid, at 12V and the motor may well do the trick for you.
Good Luck,
Geoff
Thailand

derekwarner · « **Reply #140 on:** July 05, 2014, 11:14:07 am »

Kerrsy....... Microcosm advertise the M11 boiler feed pump as from 3 to 24 V DC........................

Any mention of a torque value/volt is literally meaningless as we are after displacement per/rev/current draw

I have broached the question with Jin without answer.......Derek

"Microcosm M11 Electric Steam boiler feed pump
Planetary reduction gearbox is a high-grade structure for two deceleration, the first stage sun gear is nylon wheel, reducing noise with the other gears are all steel gears in the gearbox are lubricants. Planetary gear structure is the advantage of Compact, small backlash, high accuracy, high transfer efficiency, long life, rated output torque.
Planetary gearbox gear motor, coil resistance 8 ohms.
Motor shaft diameter 24MM 55MM long milling flat 4MM D-shaped shaft length 16MM"

Kerrsy · « **Reply #141 on:** July 05, 2014, 08:52:12 pm »

Hi Derek
It's not the pump motor I'm worried about it's the control board and the components.

Alan

Kerrsy · « **Reply #142 on:** July 12, 2014, 07:59:42 pm »

Hi Geof
thank you for your advice.
you are of quite right, I will have to do some experimenting with the motor.
According to the spec it can take 24v but it's the amps I need for the power.
I'll have to look at taking the power of the servo battery possibly.
I could make my own with this motor and fit a bigger pump.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/dc-geared-motors/0336337/?searchTerm=336-337&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3333362D33333726

But we do have to remember I'm only running at 30 p.s.i. Max.
This video shows the boiler steamed up at very low pressure and the motor running
and yes I forgot to tighten up the steam pipe. oops

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDMeOHyXm64&feature=youtu.be

It's early days with lots to try out.

cheers

Alan

hammer · « **Reply #143 on:** July 12, 2014, 08:47:22 pm »

What a lot of people forget is, the area of the inlet has to be divided into one square inch & the answer divided into the boiler pressure (in your case) 30 pounds. Any thing over this will put water into the boiler. So no where near 30lbs.

steamboatmodel · « **Reply #144 on:** July 13, 2014, 12:29:39 am »

Quote from: hammer on July 12, 2014, 08:47:22 pm

What a lot of people forget is, the area of the inlet has to be divided into one square inch & the answer divided into the boiler pressure (in your case) 30 pounds. Any thing over this will put water into the boiler. So no where near 30lbs.

I do not follow your math or logic.If the boiler is at 30psi the pump must generate a pressure greater then 30psi to force any water into the boil...
Regards,,
Gerald.

hammer · « **Reply #145 on:** July 13, 2014, 10:16:43 am »

Yes the pump will need to produce more than 30 pounds per square inch. If the face of the piston in the pump is one square inch, plus 30 pounds will be required to push the piston. If the piston is 2square inches the force required will be plus 60 pounds. So if the piston is a half square inch divide by 4, only plus 7.5 pounds will be sufficient. NOT 30 POUNDS. Simple's

Kerrsy · « **Reply #146 on:** July 13, 2014, 12:28:45 pm »

Well carry on chaps but you lost me.
Thanks for the comments

Alan

geoff p · « **Reply #147 on:** July 13, 2014, 01:09:26 pm »

Oh Dear, FORCE and Pressure.

steamboatmodel · « **Reply #148 on:** July 13, 2014, 05:50:27 pm »

Quote from: hammer on July 13, 2014, 10:16:43 am

Yes the pump will need to produce more than 30 pounds per square inch. If the face of the piston in the pump is one square inch, plus 30 pounds will be required to push the piston. If the piston is 2square inches the force required will be plus 60 pounds. So if the piston is a half square inch divide by 4, only plus 7.5 pounds will be sufficient. NOT 30 POUNDS. Simple's

Right I follow it now the force required to drive the pump does not have to be 30IBS but depends on the pump piston area.
Regards,
Gerald.

southsteyne2 · « **Reply #149 on:** July 14, 2014, 03:05:17 am »

why not hook the pump up to the engine you will loose very little power and a lot simpler and authentic, I have just done this with a 5/8 bore single cylinder engine and 1/8th bore pump works beautifully plenty power at 30 psi

Cheers
John

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Author Topic: Building the ALASKA (Read 95344 times)