Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips > Radio Equipment
Motor interference
Doc:
Since you are using a separate battery for the receiver you do not need, and shouldn't be using the ESC's BEC. UNless you disconnect the power lead in the ESC's cable to the receiver, you will still have the BEC trying to furnish power to the receiver, which is not good.
It appears that you have two choices, remove the separate receiver's battery and use the BEC (only one of them), or, disconnect the BECs and use the receiver battery. Give one of those a try. If it works, then which ever you didn't select ought to work too. Use which ever you prefer.
For some further guessing, since the problem only shows up when trying to run at full power, I'd have to guess that the 'main' (motor) battery is a higher voltage than the receiver's 4.8 volts. Am I right??
- 'Doc
Telstar:
Hi Russ
Just a silly suggestion. but since the start stop interference is only while traveling on the ground at speed, could there be a loose or bad connection in the battery to motor circuit? (my thinking is maybe jolting is causing the problem).
I would try Roy's suggestion, try it on water, this will at least test that ESC/ motor, and also measure the actual current taken by the motors ( not easy without a rolling road) the current taken by a motor is not always what the maker states, I am lead to believe on land vehicles (buggies) the current varies widely with changes in terrain acceleration etc. much more than in boats (you don't get many hills on lakes).
Recently a fellow modeler had problems blowing fuses on his new twin screw lifeboat, he had got the usual help, using BEC on both ESC's , use BEC on one ESC only ( the correct way I think), using separate Rx battery and no BEC. When we measured the current in his 8A motors we found on full power they peaked just over 12A enough to blow his 12A fuse. Uprating the fuse to 15A then checking the motor temp after a sprint on full power they showed no excessive heat any where.
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