Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 112570 times)

muleears · « **Reply #250 on:** January 15, 2013, 09:14:48 pm »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on January 14, 2013, 10:00:57 pm

Hi Cal, had a Carpal Tunnel relief operation, I have had bad hands for years, the op is supposed to cure it. Have you tried a disk with a slot in it as is on my Victoria? Runs nice and quiet, just make sure the driving pin is long enough to compensate for any misalignment. If the pins are only tied loosely, they will still be able to slide, as Kenny said, they could be bouncing apart. Does it make the same noise when running in the opposite direction? Things like this are a bit tricky when there is a few thousand miles of ocean in the way, probably sort it in no time with a bit of 'hands on'. Surgeon said to excersise fingers, so I may as well type rather than just aimlessly wiggle my fingers about, both hurt anyway.
Hope you get the job sorted,
Regards,
Nick.

If your surgery went like my brothers did you will be very happy. It made a world of difference in his flexibility and strength. You'll be back to swinging that mini-hammer in no time!

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #251 on:** January 16, 2013, 12:24:12 am »

Hello Cal, op seems ok so far, not as painful as it was yesterday, but still can't tie shoe laces, good enough excuse for me to loaf about in my slippers! Looking at the drawing from vnkiwi, makes sense, it is ok to have a bit of an angle between engine and shaft, but the centrelines do need to line up. Have you fixed the engine bay floor down yet? as there is provision to angle the motor if necessary.
Keep at it, you will get there in the end

muleears · « **Reply #252 on:** January 16, 2013, 09:47:54 pm »

Quote from: vnkiwi on January 14, 2013, 11:55:23 pm

Hi Cal,
from your descriptions and photos, and finally your video, would seem to me that you have a wee bit of a fundamental design flaw in your coupling alignment.
The intersection of your two shafts should be at the centre of the coupling.
If its not then your prop will not revolve at the same rpm as your motor.
You said yourself that there is a vertical offset and in your video, it is apparent that the prop is not running at constant rpm. it 'hunts' ie speeds up and slows down during each revolution.
See the sketch for reason. If you don't fix this it will result in excess wear everywhere, and always make the sound. Get that intersection back where it is supposed to be and everything will be fine
Hope this helps
cheers
vnkiwi

The first time I read this I was unsure what you meant as the diagram didn't show up on my laptop. I know see it and I see the light!

It would be very difficult to change the stern tube location other than in and out, but I can move the engine somewhat. The last couple days have been busy and I haven't had time to investigate. Hopefully tomorrow...

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #253 on:** January 16, 2013, 10:06:45 pm »

Can you pack the rear of the front up so it aligns with the shaft? or lift the whole engine up on spacers so you get a nice straight run from crankshaft to prop shaft? I am toying with the idea if fitting my PMR engine in Victoria when I take the steam -plant out for overhaul, ready for the spring....

muleears · « **Reply #254 on:** January 18, 2013, 06:01:44 pm »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on January 16, 2013, 10:06:45 pm

Can you pack the rear of the front up so it aligns with the shaft? or lift the whole engine up on spacers so you get a nice straight run from crankshaft to prop shaft? I am toying with the idea if fitting my PMR engine in Victoria when I take the steam -plant out for overhaul, ready for the spring....

I have the back end jacked up a little bit. The problem is the right side of the engine only has the one mounting bolt in the middle. If it had two in front and two in back it would be much simpler. I will locate some washers and see what I can do. Thanks to all for the help.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #255 on:** January 18, 2013, 06:37:33 pm »

Hi Cal, when you have established the position of the engine, you coul
d fit a wedge shape between the base of the engine and the bedplate.....

muleears · « **Reply #256 on:** January 18, 2013, 08:11:37 pm »

I have (temporarily) placed a nut under the engine frame on the rear mounting bolt to jack up the back of the motor a little more and bring the two shafts into closer alignment. I just tested it and it runs much quieter. There was some noise from vibration but when I put a finger on the stern tube to cushion it it stopped. I would be satisfied with the sound it makes now, I just need to mount the motor more permanently at that angle.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #257 on:** January 18, 2013, 09:06:21 pm »

Quote from: muleears on January 18, 2013, 08:11:37 pm

I have (temporarily) placed a nut under the engine frame on the rear mounting bolt to jack up the back of the motor a little more and bring the two shafts into closer alignment. I just tested it and it runs much quieter. There was some noise from vibration but when I put a finger on the stern tube to cushion it it stopped. I would be satisfied with the sound it makes now, I just need to mount the motor more permanently at that angle.

On the water in a few weeks then?

SailorGreg · « **Reply #258 on:** January 18, 2013, 09:48:50 pm »

Thanks Cal (and vnkiwi) for this discussion. I plan to use a similar connection between engine and prop shaft as you have done and this has given me a very clear steer on the things I need to pay attention to. I now know that I need to align the axes of drive shaft and prop shaft so that they intersect at the point the connection is made. It's simple when it's explained, but I would probably have had the same problem if I hadn't read this.

Thanks guys!

Greg

muleears · « **Reply #259 on:** January 19, 2013, 01:08:10 am »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on January 18, 2013, 09:06:21 pm

On the water in a few weeks then?

Hah! I started this about 9 months ago! I still have to build the cabin and paint everything! My goal when I started was to have it ready for our (last) July family reunion, now I'm hoping for this years reunion. I'm sure with the help I get here the rest of the build will go quickly. Provided I have the time to dedicate to it. My current project is finishing the second floor of my house. When finished I will have a room just for my hobby stuff, no more working on the boat on the kitchen table! When that happens things should move quickly.

muleears · « **Reply #260 on:** January 20, 2013, 11:19:19 am »

Jacked up the back of the engine a little more. Much quieter now. I think I can live with the sound it makes. Thanks to all for the advice. The pic is of what it looks like now. Taken with our new Pentax K5 digital SLR (Christmas Present) and a macro lens. I apologize for the focus, still learning about the camera!

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #261 on:** January 20, 2013, 11:25:49 am »

Great.

If you had bolts buried heads down in the hull you could then have adjustable nuts each side of the frame and have infinite positioning for the engine. Then no-one would hear you cruising across the lake.

ken

muleears · « **Reply #262 on:** January 20, 2013, 11:29:36 am »

That's a great idea Ken, it may not be too late for me to do that. Currently I have the engine/boiler/gas tank plate mounted with blind nuts under the deck and machine screws to hold it on. Come to think of it I can probably still use the blind nuts and place a nut under the plate for adjustment! This may work out after all!

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #263 on:** January 20, 2013, 11:32:27 am »

I'm pleased for you. It's a system I use and really helps the silent running.

Ken

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #264 on:** January 20, 2013, 04:23:18 pm »

Hi Cal, looking good now

muleears · « **Reply #265 on:** April 02, 2013, 06:07:00 pm »

If I get thoroughly disgusted with my current drive line setup, has anyone ever used a flex drive? Or would that be blasphemy?

Mad_Mike · « **Reply #266 on:** April 02, 2013, 07:54:29 pm »

Ive wondered about using a flex shaft in a basic run of the mill drive line, it would definatly sort many issues with alignment and noise. The downside to flex shafts is they can only be used to turn one way as they unravel if turned the wrong way, BUT how much power required to do this i do not know as they are usually used in high power applications. An alternative top flex cables but similar is wire drives, theres a page here that covers them a bit further down:
http://www.fastelectrics.net/drives.php

muleears · « **Reply #267 on:** April 07, 2013, 05:43:13 pm »

Thanks Mike, I don't want to resort to that but.... I'll not be driven nuts by a clanking driveline

! Installation would be a LOT simpler though... I doubt my little 8M would have enough power or speed to unravel the flexshaft. Wonder how I would find out?

muleears · « **Reply #268 on:** April 13, 2013, 10:54:10 pm »

Just a thought, as I'm building this boat, should I include any flotation devices of any sort? I mean foam or some other method to keep the boat at the surface should bad things happen? I was thinking of shooting the crevice filling insulation foam into the area under the deck or the forward compartment. Places that it wouldn't be seen. I will be sailing in a lake, the area I will be in will exceed 10' in depth. I don't want to have to rent SCUBA gear to get my boat back! This little boat represents too much time and money to sit at the bottom of the lake... What do you folks do?

Jerry C · « **Reply #269 on:** April 13, 2013, 11:30:30 pm »

Divers every time.
Jerry.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #270 on:** April 14, 2013, 12:32:10 am »

Hi Cal, really not necessary, Victoria is a really stable boat, and short of a scale hurricane, she would stay afloat. Builders foam, as far as I am concerned is a big no no, , It can ruin a nicely finished model, if even slightly to much is used it can cause structural damage, as it continues to expand for some time, even after it has cured. I have seen the results of to much foam, not a pretty sight, I can tell you.
Best wishes,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #271 on:** April 14, 2013, 01:05:09 am »

Quote from: Jerry C on April 13, 2013, 11:30:30 pm

Divers every time.
Jerry.

Yes, I better get my diving certification!

muleears · « **Reply #272 on:** April 14, 2013, 01:11:03 am »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on April 14, 2013, 12:32:10 am

Hi Cal, really not necessary, Victoria is a really stable boat, and short of a scale hurricane, she would stay afloat. Builders foam, as far as I am concerned is a big no no, , It can ruin a nicely finished model, if even slightly to much is used it can cause structural damage, as it continues to expand for some time, even after it has cured. I have seen the results of to much foam, not a pretty sight, I can tell you.
Best wishes,
Nick.

Well, I would like my boat to be a pretty sight so no builders foam for me. Speaking of a hurricane, I'm more worried about the rogue jet skier... This is a public lake with all sorts of other water conveyances about. I will however only plan on sailing early mornings when the lake is calm and deserted.

muleears · « **Reply #273 on:** April 17, 2013, 01:01:19 am »

No building till my lair is complete! I can't wait, shortly I will have a room dedicated to the stuff I want to work on and nothing else! I should be moved in and back to building in less than a month!

SailorGreg · « **Reply #274 on:** April 17, 2013, 07:01:40 am »

Wow! That will be great when it's finished. Are you doing the work yourself? Be sure to post a picture when it's done with your workbench and other boatbuilding bits so we can all feel really envious.

Greg

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Author Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 112570 times)