Topic: Prop Shaft coupling seems loose (Read 17756 times)

Circlip · « **Reply #50 on:** May 12, 2012, 10:34:23 am »

Go back to post #15 Jaymac, the photo shows the Hex piece/spline demounted from the shaft and coupling. You need to put a spanner on the small hex which is a locknut and a larger one on the large hex,. In the photo you have shown, hold the spanner on the large hex vertical and pull the spanner on the small one towards you. This should unlock the parts, then you should be able to unscrew the larger one from the shaft. It looks like the brass tube should have been a bit longer.

Regards Ian.

Doh! didn't see page 2 but comments are still valid.

jaymac · « **Reply #51 on:** May 12, 2012, 05:08:32 pm »

Hants UK
Posts: 4,054

Re: Prop Shaft coupling seems loose
« Reply #49 on: Today at 12:04:18 AM »

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looking at the image it looks like the coupling end and locknut are right at the end of the thread.
It looks like either the outer shaft has been cut or a longer shaft used.
In all honesty someone has made a right pigs ear of fitting the shaft.
To check it properly the other end needs stripping and then the shaft checking in the tube.

You wouldn't chuckle Bob still I musn't speak ill of the dead
Any way I've done it and yes the small Hexagon is right at the end of the thread hopefully all is well now

Bloody Red screws took be longer to get back in than the coupling Job and see how accessible they are .its abugger having to use pliers a to hold screws .Serves me right fot chewing my fingernails so much

May I once again thank everyone for their Time patience and input without which I just would have left as is
Cheers
John

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #52 on:** May 12, 2012, 05:16:55 pm »

John,
Well done 10 out of 10 for perseverance at least you now know how to do it.
The second is easier till it actually becomes an easy operation.

Bob

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #53 on:** May 13, 2012, 01:40:57 am »

Jaymac,

Post a photo of your success

jaymac · « **Reply #54 on:** May 13, 2012, 09:38:14 am »

Raartygunner jeez thats a mouthful

Will do when I get a better washer fit soI'l be doing it again would you like pics of things APART as well
John

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #55 on:** May 13, 2012, 09:57:01 am »

Jaymac,

Yes please if possible, have no experience with these couplings.

Thank you

oldiron · « **Reply #56 on:** May 13, 2012, 11:03:14 am »

jaymac
I would interpret, from this thread, you have had limited experience with things like lock nuts. I thought i should make another suggestion on the grub screw end. It is best to have a flat filed on the shaft that your grub screw is tightening down and registering on. This allows the screw more "bit" on the shaft and resistance to the shaft turning under the screw. I don't know if your motor shaft is like this, but, since you have it all apart it may not hurt to check it out.

John

jaymac · « **Reply #57 on:** May 13, 2012, 12:53:37 pm »

Rar REe Pics will do
John
Correct no experience with these couplins But lock nuts and various industry couplings yes even the uneversal best couplling the right size bit of hose pipe and as many Jubilee clips as needed kept the plants running many atime with them

Grub screws I never had to remove the motor end one and there was none at the prop end will bear you point in mind though
Cheers
John

tt1 · « **Reply #58 on:** May 13, 2012, 06:54:39 pm »

Think your spot on reaarty. (re spotting the thread on the shaft bit)

Circlip · « **Reply #59 on:** May 13, 2012, 08:35:46 pm »

Piece of flexible tube over end of screwdriver, push head of screwdriver into slot on screw head, slide tube over screw head to retain screw.

Regards Ian.

jaymac · « **Reply #60 on:** May 14, 2012, 07:58:02 pm »

Pics For Raaartygunner

Hi this shows the motor slid back and the Red sleeve just slid off the the coupling about tobe unscrewed Then the coupling off you can just see a bit of bare metal twixt thread and brass sleeve so as said he ran out of thread hence the gap and play. I found a couple of washers that just took up the gap though a bit big they work

then job done hope this of interest to you
Cheers
John

jaymac · « **Reply #61 on:** May 14, 2012, 08:00:22 pm »

\\ooops another pic needed

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #62 on:** May 14, 2012, 08:13:52 pm »

Glad it's all sorted John.

Well done.

ken

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #63 on:** May 14, 2012, 10:52:15 pm »

John,

Thanks for the photos.

The guys were definitely on the money with the soloution.

Have a similar problem, the outer shaft is short but with a different coupling.

Now know, I need to cut a sleeve for the thrust washer to bear upon and stop the motor shaft moving back and forth.

Thanks again.

Ten out of ten to everyone

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #64 on:** May 15, 2012, 12:30:40 am »

Raarty,
The sleeve is a bodge.
The inner shaft should not stick out so far.

Bob

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #65 on:** May 15, 2012, 12:45:37 am »

Bob,

If it does, then does the inner shaft need to be cut and re-threaded (or left plain and change the insert), and then the motor moved closer to the shortened shaft.

Alternatively, I suppose you could change the shaft and tube.

oldiron · « **Reply #66 on:** May 15, 2012, 03:29:06 am »

Quote from: raaartygunner on May 15, 2012, 12:45:37 am

Bob,

If it does, then does the inner shaft need to be cut and re-threaded (or left plain and change the insert), and then the motor moved closer to the shortened shaft.

Alternatively, I suppose you could change the shaft and tube.

Change the length of the shaft spacer tube insert. You should have a little bit of thread left over on the shaft after you've tightened the coupling lock nut on. Another danger with having too long a shaft projecting into the coupling is can interfere with the center block on the coupling.

John

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #67 on:** May 15, 2012, 08:26:38 am »

You could just fit a thrust collar around the shaft.
I have used the model aircraft collars that keep the undercarriage wheels on, they are made with a 4mm centre.
This will leave a little of the shaft exposed, but can be useful in tight confines.
Then just lock the coupling end as usual.

Bob

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #68 on:** May 15, 2012, 08:48:14 am »

Quote from: shipmate60 on May 15, 2012, 08:26:38 am

You could just fit a thrust collar around the shaft.
I have used the model aircraft collars that keep the undercarriage wheels on, they are made with a 4mm centre.
This will leave a little of the shaft exposed, but can be useful in tight confines.
Then just lock the coupling end as usual.

Bob

Bob,

Good idea and an easy solution, thank you

Circlip · « **Reply #69 on:** May 15, 2012, 10:30:32 am »

Prop tube should have been longer in Jaymacs application. If you try to move the motor nearer to the existing one to shorten the "Overhung" length of shaft, the body diameter of the motor looks too big to allow it to move much nearer. Strange how many fit the "A" frame supports on the water end of a proptube but omit to add a support dart between the proptube and hull on the drive end of plastic boats. On wooden hulls, there was invariably a bulkhead close to the tube end.

Regards Ian.

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #70 on:** May 15, 2012, 01:41:35 pm »

Circlip,

Would fixing a piece of timber across and glued to bottom of the hull, under the shaft provide the required support.

Shipmate60 · « **Reply #71 on:** May 15, 2012, 05:12:50 pm »

yes it would.

Bob

Circlip · « **Reply #72 on:** May 15, 2012, 07:09:18 pm »

Thanks Bob

Answered that with out moving my keyboard Raarty

Regards Ian.

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #73 on:** May 15, 2012, 11:22:47 pm »

Guys,

Thank you.

Modern computer technology is amazing

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