Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[jaymac]

Hi I have to add around 3K of ballast  which is Lead flashing .   Is there a  Best way to do this .Obviously  it can only go where there is space  but  is it best    spread out in say Strips  or what . Also how to secure  but still be able to remove

[Shipmate60]

What type of boat and what size?

Bob

[malcolmfrary]

Spread out, low, hot melt glue to fix if what you are fixing to will stand it.  Hot melt can be sliced and peeled off metal should re-arrangement be needed.  Otherwise Screwfix "Sticks Like **i*" or Evo Grab adhesive.
Since spread was suggested, I would guess that that would be appropriate.  3Kg seems a lot, though.  Probably best concentrated in the form of bigger batteries.

[Martin (Admin)]

paint... silicon... PVA glue.

[jaymac]

Thanks all Bob Its a Tug  40'' dont think Batts any good already have a 12V sla  am going to ty more but they are  big and clumsy and high  My main concern is  the ballast moving

[Shipmate60]

On all my large tugs I have ballasted with batteries.
Tugs are generally very beamy hulls with a large draught. This coupled with small upperworks means that stability isn't really a problem.
So far I have had 4 x 12 volt 7 A/h in a Fleetscale Robust tug which was very stable.
An added advantage is with battery boxes inside the hull you can remove the batteries which makes her a lot lighter to recover and transport.
An added advantage is the massive duration.
Some oh the batteries can be used upright as the top part of the battery is an air space so lighter.

Bob

[Bryan Young]

Please, please, please....do NOT fix your ballast into the hull as a permanent fixture.
The time will come when you need to remove it for one reason or another.
As with anything to do with ship/boat modelling access and movability is (or should be) a prime concern. make your ballast portable/removeable. Batteries are a reasonable idea, but not always suitable....all depends on the access. BY.

[tugs62]

I use a spot of silicon then when I need to remove the ballast a steady pull  on the ballast and it comes back out the silicon then can be peeled off

[Artistmike]

I had a hull somewhat damaged once when some ballast came loose in transit to the lake. I use lead flashing to top up the weight of the batteries now and wrap that flashing in bubblewrap and tape them loosely together and to the inside of the hull with insulating tape. They now stay put but are easily removable for maintenance etc., should I need to get inside the hull.

[jaymac]

 Ah! bubble wrap and tape Damn! just chucked a load of bubble wrap envelopes out

[big_bri]

I use 3x 12v 7ah batteries for ballast in my tug and lay them on a piece of not slip matting you get for cars, sticks like the proverbial whatsits to a blanket.
I use it in all my warships too and never had any movement yet

[jaymac]

Thanks all for the suggestions  it is gonna be Lead no room for Batts

[mickyrubble]

Hi,
I use heavy duty Velcro from halfords,never moves until i want it to.
 

[jaymac]

What do you use to stick the Velro to the Hull and the Lead

[guitar man]

Hi

You can get Velcro that has a sticky tape fixed to the one side I got mine from the market of a needle work stall

Regards  Tony

[sailorboy61]

Experiment with positioning, you see so many models on the pond with too much stability, flicking about all over the place, so whilst low is generally better than high, a compromise need to be achieved to get a more authentic look to your boat on the water, try raising some a little (this is where batteries are quite good), and keeping it out towards the side of the hull.

good luck!

[jaymac]

I have not got alot of choice in location  a 12V     sla does the trick but cant fit it in hence the need for  lead 

[mickyrubble]

I have not got alot of choice in location  a 12V     sla does the trick but cant fit it in hence the need for  lead 


Try fixing the sla using the velcro