I don't want anyone to think I will be utilizing my boilers in a fashion that would endanger anyone but myself. And I don't plan to do that! In the future I will fire my boilers for the first time in my back yard. I have a location were I can be 80m from my house and 120m from my only neighbor. If I cannot find a source for hydraulic testing, what alternative is suggested?
Nick, I think I have found where the engine is binding. In the pic below, in the red circle you can see the pin (end of the crank) protrudes from the counterbalance. It appears this is rubbing on the back of the lower portion of the connecting rod. The engine binds when these two meet and it is free when they aren't. Apparently the lower portion of the connecting rod has been slightly bent inwards. I will straighten it and see how it goes. Thanks for sticking with me.
Cal,
Nothing causes more controversy around the Global forums than boiler test certification and the fact that you have been willing to ask questions tells that you are a responsible person and wish to be safe in what you do.
There are only 2- bodies that will require you to produce a certificate and that is a club that you are a member of in order to have public liability insurance cover in the event of any accidents.
The other is the insurance company who will take on the risk and insist that boilers are certified by 2- competent testers.
There is no inputs from Government, Local authorities or any other authorities.
You will however get all sorts of advice from those who have never built a boiler nor been involved in testing of the same and knowledge has been gleaned from books.
You have asked the question on other methods of testing and have been given an excellent method by using the Rothenburger test gear if not a bit expensive.
This would not however qualify for a test certificate but very good or proving the integrity of the boiler before presenting it to the testers.
As you are fairly isolated with no other steam enthusiasts in your area I can suggest 2- methods only to test the boiler that isn't a commercially recognized one.
Your Maccsteam one will be O.K. and as you have already discovered from well known steam enthusiasts in the U.S.A. that your brass boilers don't need testing but the unknown copper one is advised to be tested.
Have a look around the circumference of the boiler shell and at ether end there may be some markings that will determine the working pressure of the boiler.
If there are no markings I would guess on a figure of testing to 60 P.s.i. which will give you a boiler of 30 p.s.i. working pressure.
Strip the boiler of all cladding and fittings., Plug all holes bar one which will probably be the safety valve bush, get a 2" dia pressure gauge ( you will get one at a reasonable cost from Engineering supply company ) make a fitting that has a male female thread , one to suit the gauge and one to suit the boiler bush.
Completely fill the boiler with water leaving no air space, screw the pressure gauge into the boiler and set it up on two bricks, gently play a plumbers blow lamp on the copper side of the boiler until the gauge moves, this next bit takes a bit of care, keep playing the burner on and off as the pressure rises until it's up to about 40 p.s.i. then continue to gently touch the boiler until you reach 60 p.s.i..
Shut down your burner and the pressure will very quickly drop.
This hydraulic test isn't sufficient as a certificated test, as on a hydraulic test the boiler must hold it's pressure for 15 mins but it will show up any water leaks in the boiler, which if it leaks all that you will get is a spray of hot water, not boiling water !!!
I have on occasions tested a boiler for leaks by plugging all holes and making an adapter to take a cycle tyre connection and with a cycle hand pump screwed on to the connector put the boiler into a deep bucket of water and then give it no more than 4 -strokes of the pump which will produce air bubbles if there are any leaks.
Here is a pic of a 2" dia gauge fitted to a Yarrow boiler and a pic of a boiler stripped ready to fit the gauge on, mounted on "V" blocks ready to heat for a quick hydraulic test,which incidentally was pressurised initially by the heating method to 175 p.s.i
The best method of course if there is nobody to hydraulic test your boiler is to make a test rig or by/rent the Rothengerger gear.
My suggestions are purely for those isolated with no external help from other steam enthusiast, in all of my years involved in steam models, Locos and Marine I have never seen a boiler burst nor have I ever heard of one doing so.
George.
Scotch Marine boiler ready for test.
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Topic: Bought a new toy on Ebay, have some questions (Read 38155 times)