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[HS93 (RIP)]

yes Mr Bishop I had one the first time around over 40 years ago , then they did not put out a brake horse power.or rev like these do

Peter

[HS93 (RIP)]

Hi Peter, I had seen your flex joints in John's (oldiron) previous post and attached again in this thread & remarked how well made they were. Once more you have attached pictures of a boat built to a very high standard & a pleasure to see, showing the home made joints & thank you for that, they look well made & I can see they will work well too. What we tend to forget on a forum of this type where members are always coming up with new ideas & ways to "improve" things that we do & use is that not everyone can & do build to your & John's standards. I have been on the forum about 18 months & to be honest have learned most of my boat "education" from members like yourself & John & many others as well who are always willing to share their ideas & fixes with us all. My background in automotive has given me a solid grounding in things mechanical & I find myself applying that to what I feel are issues that I perceive are not right mechanically or could be improved. My quest for a better joint started when I saw the vibration & heard the noise the Huco's made in my boat so here we are at this point where I have found & modified a joint from the model car hobby that works( needs more testing & a lathe to modify) & one of my own design that requires a milling machine to produce to a more accurate configuration before I can say it will or won't work . If it works I will be glad to share it with all the forum members. I am not looking for a slap on the back for being such a "nice fella". When I raced Cars & Karts I always shared any improvements that I made along the way if anybody was interested, back then we did not do things with the idea of "whats in it for me". Mick B.   

this may help you in your quest

http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Kinetic_coupling.html

Peter

[irishcarguy]

Thank you Peter, as always ready to help, Mick B. PS - did you look @ the CX601 on the Busy Bee site, I would value your opinion.Mick

[HS93 (RIP)]

Thank you Peter, as always ready to help, Mick B. PS - did you look @ the CX601 on the Busy Bee site, I would value your opinion.Mick

can you PM  me a link dont look on that site.

peter

[Norseman]

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/MILLING-MACHINE-WITH-DIGITAL-READOUT.html
I think this is the one Peter ....... plus stand inset

Dave

[HS93 (RIP)]

My mill with full glass scales and stepper ctr on z axis similar to one in picture mine will soon be R8 with three phase motor controle.

but we are getting of topic so before my posts are removed we will say that the mills are capable of making couplings and move on

Peter

[Norseman]

we are getting of topic

In that case I too have a Mill



and a lathe back attitude to rules

Dave

[Martin (Admin)]

"full glass scales"

? ? ?

[Norseman]

???
Well I'll take a guess at maybe the likes of http://www.auto-met.com/heidenhain/sealed_le/default.htm ???Dave

[irishcarguy]

Hi Peter, thats the web site & machine that Dave found, without it there is no way that I could phase 4 or 5 running grooves spaced to within 1 degree accuracy in 360 degrees & then match that with the same spacing on the inner part carrying the 4 or 5 ballbearings matching the outer grooves within 1 degree. It was not possible to make the joint without the use of a mill. I made & tested 3 prototypes using 1/8 3/16 ballbearings but it vibrated because the depth of the retaining indents to hold the balls in place varied in depth & needed to be exactly the same. I should have a prototype made and ready to test in a week or two.Mick B.

[HS93 (RIP)]

Glass scales are the DRO (digital read out) they are accurate to 5µm resolution problem is they cost more than the mill after you add it up I now have the z axis to fit and a new read out with three axis the one in the picture has been moved to  moved to the lathe but they make life so easy to repeat things like hole pcd etc mounts are right every time and even in circles its so easy just dial in what you want and there is the cordance to dial in , cheating really .the picture drilling disk shows me drilling 25mm centers so 12.5mm either side of centre , every one the same.

http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/gs300-220-standard-glass-scale-220mm-reading-length.html

http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/sds6-3v-universal-display-console-3-axis-display.html

Peter

[irishcarguy]

Hi Peter really class tool, but I will have to save for that add on, otherwise the mill looks very much like mine & really good value for money, thanks for the photos, now I will be dreaming of the scales. Mick B.

[steamboatmodel]

Then why not just leave in the solid coupling, because a single u joint is far from flexible, and save yourself the money.

John

When ever possible I use the two U joints with the sliding bit in between. I feel the flex joint is to allow for expansion and twisting of the hull and components, not for misalignment of parts. There are some situations where you can design a reduction setup ether gears of pulleys without using a flex drive unit at all.
Regards,
Gerald.

[irishcarguy]

That is in fact the correct way to use the Huco as a pair phased 90 degrees apart, it may still be noisy(mine were) but it will not have as much vibration if any, so you should be O/K Gerald. Mick B.

[RAAArtyGunner]

When ever possible I use the two U joints with the sliding bit in between. I feel the flex joint is to allow for expansion and twisting of the hull and components, not for misalignment of parts. There are some situations where you can design a reduction setup ether gears of pulleys without using a flex drive unit at all.
Regards,
Gerald.

Now, that I can understand and it makes sense. 

[boatmadman]

I have a 3 axis dro on my mill, and I have to say, its worth every penny and more of what they cost, it makes using the mill so much easier, you get repeatable accuracy far quicker than using the dials.

If you haven't got one, get one soon, you won't regret it.

Ian

[irishcarguy]

Hi Ian, I will get it tomorrow just send me the cash to buy it ,LOL.Mick B.

[steamboatmodel]

I have a 3 axis dro on my mill, and I have to say, its worth every penny and more of what they cost, it makes using the mill so much easier, you get repeatable accuracy far quicker than using the dials.

If you haven't got one, get one soon, you won't regret it.

Ian

3 axis dro is only one step away from CNC, which once you use you will never go back. You can even run them manually, but the big advantage aside from repeatability is doing curves and circles.
Regards,
Gerald.

[john s 2]

The socket screw supplied by huco is short. So of course the allen key has not a lot to go into. Hence the tightening problems. I always replace the socket screw with the next length one. Result is allen key goes in further and the socket screw uses all the thread in the coupling. Most fastener shops stock. I buy mine from Essex Fasteners. John.

[boatmadman]

I have successfully used Dog point grub screws, like these, on shafts with a flat.

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/dog_point_grub_screws.htm

Ian