Topic: Help needed (Read 16806 times)

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #25 on:** September 12, 2012, 09:06:17 pm »

Quote from: Rusty on September 12, 2012, 07:28:53 pm

Thanks dodgy geezer, just a few questions as I have no idea whatsoever

What do you suggest and what does I/C mean
2 decide if you want to stay with the I/C power unit or go electric. Modern electrics are quite powerful, and a lot of lakes don't let you use I/C, so you might prefer to change the power unit...

I this the correct unit? and what does ESC mean
3 - get a new 2.4Ghz radio with servos from Giant Shark. If you wanted to change power units, get a motor,
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/giantcod-24ghz-4channel-mode2-transmitter-p-403779.htm latteries and an ESC at the same time.

No problems! I just put down some stages you'll probably go through - you will have lots of questions about each of those stages, I'm sure...

I/C - internal combustion. The motor you have is an 'internal combustion' type. Car petrol engines, diesel engines and glow-plugs are all this type - you have a 'glow-plug'. Glow plugs work off buying glow-plug fuel (I see you haven't got a fuel tank on that boat - you'll need to get one, probably mount it next to the engine near the bow, and attach a fuel lead to that little connector on the carburettor). Then you attach a 1.5v, high amp battery to that little plug on top of the motor with a special connector, and turn the brass flywheel around with a cord in the groove. Once it's going, you can remove the glow-plug connector, and the motor will keep going until the fuel runs out. I suspect you might find electric easier to operate, but that would mean modifying the motor mount and buying a new electric motor...

ESC - electronic speed controller. If you were to use an electric motor, you control the motor speed with a special box called an ESC. It plugs into the receiver like a servo, but has extra leads connected to the battery and the motor. You only need this with an electric motor...

You probably need to know a bit about radio control boxes. You typically buy a Transmitter/Receiver combination (Tx/RX Combo) and then buy servos or escs as you want.

There are various frequencies available on the market.

27Mhz - Ok for all models, but a lot of toys use this frequency so there can be interference
35Mhz - only for aeroplanes
40Mhz - only for boats/cars - the sets can be a bit expensive, but there are often second-hand ones available, because lots of people are switching to:

2.4Ghz - this is a new frequency - the sets can be very cheap, there are no problems with interference and there are other reasons why they are particularly easy to use. I'd recommend that you got one of these. The Planet T5 (about £45) and the Radiolink T4U (about £25) are commonly used...

irishcarguy · « **Reply #26 on:** September 13, 2012, 06:56:24 am »

Dodgy has summed it all up for you,follow his advice, the only thing I would add is go with electric, in the end you will be much better off. If you do go IC I would advise you to strip & clean out the motor first before you try to start it as it has been sitting around too long. This will help to make it start easier if you intend to use it. Mick B.

Rob459 · « **Reply #27 on:** September 13, 2012, 08:12:32 pm »

Hi all

why is electric better than I/C

Rob459

Please see new thread on the subject

Rusty · « **Reply #28 on:** September 14, 2012, 01:34:11 pm »

Thanks guys, I have started to clean her up and removed the old servos.
If I was going to go down the electric route roughly how much would it cost?
Is it a case of stripping everything out, I think the engine has had it, it's not been
Started for 27 years!

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #29 on:** September 14, 2012, 02:21:08 pm »

Quote from: Rusty on September 14, 2012, 01:34:11 pm

Thanks guys, I have started to clean her up and removed the old servos.
If I was going to go down the electric route roughly how much would it cost?
Is it a case of stripping everything out, I think the engine has had it, it's not been
Started for 27 years!

I see no reason why the motor should not work perfectly well. There isn't any reason why it shouldn't, though it may need some cleaning and oiling inside...

It's up to you to decide. You have a bit of your original family history there, so you may not want to alter it. However, a lot of boating venues nowadays ban IC engines, so you may find that your aim of running your boat on its original lake is no longer possible, unless you change the motor. It's then up to you to decide if you want to run the boat in original form elsewhere, or run it on the original lake in a different configuration....

COSTS.

1 - you say the Transmitter is broken? If so, you're better off buying a new 2.4Ghz than mending. That will cost £25-£50. and I would buy a new rudder servo. Say £5. That will be easy to replace - just a 1to1 replacement.

2 - cleaning and painting - perhaps £10-£20 for paint, etc.

3 - the IC motor route
Do you know how to run IC motors? If not, you will have to learn (I'm sure the local club will help) But otherwise you will just have the cost of a throttle servo. Oh, and a new fuel tank plus some fuel. Say £10-15 total. And a 1.5v battery plus glow connector, say £10. Here's one on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROLUX-LIPO-GLOSTART-RC-PLANE-AEROPLANE-R-C-MODEL-RC-CAR-RC-BOAT-GLOWPLUG-NITRO-/170909522160?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item27cb0058f0 That should be all.

4 - the electric route. If you want to go electric, you will have the cost of a motor, mount and an ESC. Say £50. Plus batteries, say £20, and a charger, say £25. And a new connector - say £10. You won't need another servo. But you will need to remove the IC motor and build a new mount for the electric motor. That will demand some modelling skill, and perhaps some bits of aluminium or wood. You will also have to learn how to program an ESC (I'm sure the local club will help).

I don't know what may be important for you. But that boat looked in quite good condition, and I would probably want to run with the original motor if I could.

gwa84the2nd · « **Reply #30 on:** September 14, 2012, 09:29:23 pm »

if you would like and arnt to confident striping the engine dawn i will gladly offer to strip and clean it for you and check everything over to make sure its servisable wouldent take to long you would just have to pop it in a box and mail it and i could esaly mail it back in a couple of days all being well inside the motore i would probably fire it up as well get the carb settings somwhere near for you

the offers there free of charge of course

Rob459 · « **Reply #31 on:** September 14, 2012, 09:46:24 pm »

Hi
Just want to say that's a really nice offer, just goes to show what a bunch of nice decent people are on this fantastic forum.

Rob459

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #32 on:** September 14, 2012, 10:52:45 pm »

An offer you cant refuse lol

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #33 on:** September 15, 2012, 08:04:13 am »

You might prefer to be on site for any work on the motor - starting them is a bit of an art, and it would be helpful to try starting it for the first time with an experienced person around....

gwa84the2nd · « **Reply #34 on:** September 16, 2012, 01:00:54 am »

the idea whas if i can sort it all out for him then when he comes to the point of starting it himself he will have a good known base to start with if i was closer i would have no problems going and doing it on site i actaly have a boat that i can mount it into to realy get it dield in on the water all i would need is what prop size it will be running ones set up properly the sports type motors of that era wernt that dificult as thers no tuned pipe so they have a brouser range of reliability rather then a race engine thats set up just so and a click of the mix screw can throw them compleatly out

personaly i like to see the older nitro engines run and used thers a lot of em stuck in a collectors draw not doing what theye are intended to do and thats put a smile on ya face in my eyes its just somthing electric lacks

Rob459 · « **Reply #35 on:** September 16, 2012, 01:59:40 am »

Hi
I have only been a member for a short while but I have seen a fair few criticisms of other members I don't know if that is normal but it's seems a bit sad to me, the majority of people offer some great advice, but I feel there are 1 or 2 members who enjoy taking the p.,s out of others ,

Rob459

Rob459 · « **Reply #36 on:** September 16, 2012, 02:08:56 am »

And if you fell the need to come back at me for expressing my opinion fell free, I can handle it.

Rob459 · « **Reply #37 on:** September 16, 2012, 02:13:29 am »

Rusty carry on as before shipmate, no worries no bull from outside, do your thing and good luck

gwa84the2nd · « **Reply #38 on:** September 16, 2012, 03:11:59 am »

hi Rob459 who whas the previos post's intended for ?

irishcarguy · « **Reply #39 on:** September 16, 2012, 04:49:57 am »

Rob you are in difficult situation. #1 you lack experience with boats. #2 You are thinking of using the existing IC engine & that will not be easy. I can understand your reasons for trying to restore it to original but I get the feeling that some of us think you are jumping in at the deep end & we don't want you to sink. Setting up & starting an IC engine takes a learned skill & you will be some upset when you find it is no easy task. You may not be even aware that there is a problem with the motor if it fails to start. With electric you more or less switch it on & go. Add to that the fact that today most clubs do not allow IC on their sailing ponds/lakes & I sense a fear here that you will be left in a no win situtation. I have run many IC engines & in your position I would not hesitate to switch to electric power. It will cost you more to start, but once you are set up it will be much better & more fun in the long run. Down the road when you have gained some experience you can always try IC. I think most of us here are hoping that it will be a really good experience for you & that you will become a full time model boat addict. Mick B.

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #40 on:** September 16, 2012, 09:37:02 am »

Quote from: irishcarguy on September 16, 2012, 04:49:57 am

Rob you are in difficult situation. #1 you lack experience with boats. #2 You are thinking of using the existing IC engine & that will not be easy. I can understand your reasons for trying to restore it to original but I get the feeling that some of us think you are jumping in at the deep end & we don't want you to sink. Setting up & starting an IC engine takes a learned skill & you will be some upset when you find it is no easy task....

I have agreed with this point about starting motors a few posts ago, but I recall that when I made my first IC model boat in the 1960s there was no one to help me, and I managed to install and start a motor all right. I just read a few modelling books and followed the instructions.

I wonder if nowadays we tend to make things sound harder than they are, and try to keep people away from attempting the harder bits, in many other areas of life apart from model boating...?

Circlip · « **Reply #41 on:** September 16, 2012, 11:05:25 am »

Problem is Dodgy, you're now an old f*rt like so many more of us and our thirst for knowledge was from a different era.

Regards Ian.

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #42 on:** September 16, 2012, 03:09:40 pm »

I seem to recall that Tom Sharpe said something about being born as an anachronism, and dying as an abuse...

Rusty · « **Reply #43 on:** September 25, 2012, 11:26:27 am »

Hi, I have finally got somewhere and visited my local club, I have now take out the engine which I was told was seized.
I will know later if this is the case after leaving it in some penetration oil.
If it is knackered which ic engine do you suggest I put in it, it has a merco 29 at the moment,
Can I put a merco 61 in it?

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #44 on:** September 25, 2012, 11:38:36 am »

I suspect that a .61 would be rather big and powerful for the hull. Your original was a .29 - I would not be surprised to find that a new .21 would be just as powerful...

Rusty · « **Reply #45 on:** September 25, 2012, 01:14:38 pm »

Thanks where would I be able to buy a engine

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #46 on:** September 25, 2012, 01:57:14 pm »

There's always ebay - here's a Merco 29 on sale at the moment... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIO-CONTROL-MARINE-ENGINES-by-MERCO-29-OS-MAX-40-SR-MODEL-BOAT-ENGINES-GLO-/180975279665?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2a22f79e31

I went looking at the big model shops for a new motor - perhaps the OS Max 21 marine - and found them oddly difficult to find. There only seem to be big 15cc petrol engined, or souped-up racing engines for £350+. Does anyone know if there is an outlet for simple smallish IC motors in this country?

PS - motors are measured in cubic capacity. The Americans use cu inches, Europeans use cubic centimeters. Motors used to start at about .049 cu in = 0.8 cc. Yours is a .29 (cu in) = about 4.5 cc, and the largest used to be 0.61 cu in = 10 cc. Nowadays they have huge 15cc and 30cc engines for offshore - you don't want those. You want around 0.2-0.3 cu in - about 3 - 5 cc.....

ardarossan · « **Reply #47 on:** September 25, 2012, 02:47:11 pm »

Just Engines would be a good starting point:

http://www.justengines.co.uk/acatalog/A.S.P._Marine_2_Stroke.html

Also J Perkins Distribution have SC engines. They may be able to provide the details of a suitable stockist - http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/

Andy

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #48 on:** September 25, 2012, 06:47:24 pm »

I wouldn't be surprised to find that your Merco is fine, and that it just needs a bit of easing...

Rusty · « **Reply #49 on:** November 25, 2012, 08:37:18 pm »

Well here is an update for those that are interested. I managed to strip everything out of the hull, but the engine still fails to turnover. I have put it on the barby as I did not want to upset the other half, then placed it in thinners for a week and its still ceased. Looks like my next port of call is to but a new engine

News:

Author Topic: Help needed (Read 16806 times)

Rob459

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