Topic: Graemsey by Metcalf Mouldings (Read 11579 times)

langsford · « **on:** October 20, 2012, 11:04:50 pm »

I have just purchased this kit and would appreciate any advice on the build. This is the first time I have built a twin screw model so would appreciate any tips on setting up two motors and rudder assembly.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #1 on:** October 21, 2012, 12:04:23 pm »

Hi Langsford and welcome to Mayhem,

It's nice to know you have the Kit along with the instructions. We'll watch your build with interest, if you'd like to put a build blog on site. As you progress then we would be only to happy to assist with any specific questions you may have.

If you'd like to put your location in your Profile , it might help with local assistance.

Ken

langsford · « **Reply #2 on:** October 25, 2012, 09:21:30 pm »

Thanks for the welcome Ken. I will take some pics of the build as it progresses. At the moment I'm reading the instructions several times over. I broke one of the prop supports when reaming it but have managed to do some soldering so it will be OK.

Stormbringer · « **Reply #3 on:** October 25, 2012, 09:27:50 pm »

welcome aboard

langsford · « **Reply #4 on:** October 28, 2012, 07:40:31 pm »

I have just put the stand together but it still needs sanding and finishing.

langsford · « **Reply #5 on:** November 02, 2012, 02:37:56 pm »

The top of the prop tubes are level or even below the waterline. Should the tubes be filled with grease to stop water working it's way up and into the ship?

Stavros · « **Reply #6 on:** November 02, 2012, 10:03:31 pm »

You should ALLWAYS fill the prop tubes with grease I usally use any decent car grease ordinary type,others will have differnt oppinions none are correct or incorrect

Dave

langsford · « **Reply #7 on:** November 02, 2012, 11:09:43 pm »

Thanks Dave, will do.

Dave M · « **Reply #8 on:** November 14, 2012, 11:32:50 am »

Don't forget we are always happy to help.
Phone us, we promise to phone you back if you leave a message (with your number!). Our number is in the instruction booklet. As there are only the two of us we can't always be here to take your call.
We're happy to help with broken or lost parts, even if it was your fault!

Ann
Metcalf Mouldings

langsford · « **Reply #9 on:** November 14, 2012, 05:05:28 pm »

Thanks Ann, I will bear that in mind.
I have sprayed the bottom section of the hull and made a start on the rest.
Firstly I thought I had better make sure the running gear was working and that seems to be ok, and the repaired prop support is fine. This is the first time I have soldered on white metal but it wasn't too difficult.
I have fitted the main bulkhead and the deck supports following the cutting out of the sides. Using a spare hacksaw blade hand held certainly helped this procedure.
I'm a bit unsure about the main deck hatch. The original plan build has it just laid flat on supports under the deck. Is there likely to be an ingress of water here? Should I deviate from the plans and make some sort of channel to prevent this. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I hope you keep an eye on this build Ann just incase I do anything stupid!!!!!!!!!

tt1 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 14, 2012, 05:22:45 pm »

A chap on the forum "colin" is well underway with this build, if you pm him I think you'll find him very helpful.
Regards, Tony.

langsford · « **Reply #11 on:** November 14, 2012, 05:37:15 pm »

I am trying to load an image again having had so many problems recently. This time I have used the attachment option. Let's see if it works?
It didn't work as the file was too large. I have reduced the file size to 800 x 600 so will try again.

colin · « **Reply #12 on:** November 15, 2012, 06:26:33 pm »

I have sent you a pm and message to your private email with contact details

Regards
Colin

langsford · « **Reply #13 on:** November 17, 2012, 01:28:21 pm »

Many thanks to Colin Marshall who has given me tips and sent photos of his Graemsey. (A VERY professional build, I might add.)
One of Colin's tips was that he had made a spring pin for the ramp, which will allow it to be removed for painting or maintenance. This seemed an excellent idea but I couldn't fathom out how to do it!! Instead I have achieved the same result by making a bolt instead of a pin, which can be operated from the hatch. It seems to work OK so anyone building this model might want to try it.
Also Colin used magnetic strip to keep the hatch watertight. I have ordered some magnetic tape off ebay so will be trying that idea out.
This is the first time I have used styrene in a build and I purchased a face mask as so many people recommended. Unfortunately I wear glasses and the steam up almost immediately with the mask on. I am trying out a desk fan to see if that helps.

Richardjm · « **Reply #14 on:** November 17, 2012, 05:39:56 pm »

Hi
I dont know this kit but I see it is twin screw. I built Model Slipways Drumbeat of Devon and thought it would be clever to put the 2 motor controllers on separate channels for maximum maneuverability. I wouldnt do it again as I find it confusing in use but that may be just me. Next time I would use a mixer.

Richard

langsford · « **Reply #15 on:** November 25, 2012, 08:31:24 pm »

Thanks to Colin for suggesting I fix the flush hatch with strip magnets, it works well. Also the running gear is now fitted and working.

langsford · « **Reply #16 on:** December 05, 2012, 08:36:05 pm »

I have now fitted the running gear and am about to make the windows in the hull. One problem is that when I switch on the radio control, the motors both run for several minutes and I am unable to control them. They ignore any stick movement and seem to have a mind of their own. I am using a 2.4gh transmitter and receiver from Giant Cod. Anyone got any suggestions please?

Norseman · « **Reply #17 on:** December 05, 2012, 10:59:55 pm »

Hi
A couple of the twelve photos here might be helpful. They enlarge a bit too.
http://www.marinetraffic.com/ais/showallphotos.aspx?mmsi=235019173

Dave

langsford · « **Reply #18 on:** December 05, 2012, 11:07:00 pm »

Thanks Dave. Excellent photos and I wish I had seen them a bit earlier.

Netleyned · « **Reply #19 on:** December 06, 2012, 07:58:18 am »

Quote from: langsford on December 05, 2012, 08:36:05 pm

I have now fitted the running gear and am about to make the windows in the hull. One problem is that when I switch on the radio control, the motors both run for several minutes and I am unable to control them. They ignore any stick movement and seem to have a mind of their own. I am using a 2.4gh transmitter and receiver from Giant Cod. Anyone got any suggestions please?

Switch on transmitter
Waggle throttle stick a couple of times
Centre throttle
Switch on receiver
Once TX and RX recognise each other the throttle stick should control the motor normally.

Ned

langsford · « **Reply #20 on:** December 06, 2012, 08:46:53 pm »

Started on the forward portholes today. After some trials I have decided to slice a plastic pipe and glue a backing on so that the porthole frame protrudes from the hull. On the original photos of the vessel this seems to be the case. It works quite well.
As you can see the hull in this kit is very thin, in fact almost transparent. I will apply some body filler to the inside I think as I go along. Any other ideas please?

langsford · « **Reply #21 on:** December 13, 2012, 02:29:30 pm »

Thanks to Noresman above, I have seen some superb real photos of Graemsey. It certainly helps with the build.
One thing that differs from the kit is the anchor recess (It probably has a name!). In the kit it is not recessed but flush. I think it is better recessed like the actual vessel so I have constructed something that looks fairly realistic, at least near enough for me.
As can be seen, I have reinforced the inside with body filler.

tugmad · « **Reply #22 on:** December 13, 2012, 02:50:25 pm »

Quote from: langsford on December 06, 2012, 08:46:53 pm

Started on the forward portholes today. After some trials I have decided to slice a plastic pipe and glue a backing on so that the porthole frame protrudes from the hull. On the original photos of the vessel this seems to be the case. It works quite well.
As you can see the hull in this kit is very thin, in fact almost transparent. I will apply some body filler to the inside I think as I go along. Any other ideas please?

Hello langsford with regard to your hull be very carefull as I had one of the metcalf hulls (Avenger) and as I picked it up it was so thin that I actually put my finger through it. I had to repair it and re lay the inside with more glass and resin to strengthen it. Geo

langsford · « **Reply #23 on:** December 27, 2012, 01:17:20 am »

Unfortunately there were parts missing from the kit. Two emails received no response but a phone call gave a promise that they would be posted. So far, after two weeks, and nothing has arrived. Maybe down to Christmas but I will let you know what happens. Most frustrating though.

colin · « **Reply #24 on:** December 27, 2012, 07:55:08 am »

What parts are you missing have some parts i am not using .
Regards
Colin

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Author Topic: Graemsey by Metcalf Mouldings (Read 11579 times)

Stavros