Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[Mark Yurkovic]

Hey gang,
Building my FIRST RC boat...it's the Billings Smit Rotterdam....
This may sound stupid, but I understand the concept of soaking the wood to make if form to the frame...
But do you glue it wet? or hold it in place, let it dry so it takes the shape, then glue it?
I"m all ears,
Mark

[derekwarner]

Welcome on board Mark....it is not a silly question at all
Those $2.00 shops have many styles of spring loaded clamps...some modelers use plastic house hold pegs
Steam or soak the hull plank in water to bend/form to the curvature of the frames & attach with the clamps or pegs & let dry
A cardinal rule is to plane each side of the hull uniformly...ie., apply one plank on the std side & apply the same relative plank on the port side
Some modelers use brass/bronze pins to secure the planks to the frames
Some modelers use a "polyutathane" glue & when using it is recommended to lightly mist the planks with a water spray
This "polyutathane" glue is absolutely water proof.....& I suggest the best all round adhesive for wooden model building
Good luck........keep us posted .....Derek
 

[TailUK]

This one of those questions that appears to have multiple answers.  Ask 5 different modeller and you'll get 10 different answers.
Plank bending can be done hot, cold, wet or dry and any combination of the above.  The trick is to read the litrature and (as you have done) ask.  Different hull may call for different methods,  So cast around and try and find what folks have done before you. Remember that if someone posts on the web, he's  already proved he's willing to shared information.
Pre shaping planks before clamping down to the ribs is good as it reduces the strain on the keel.  Alternating planks is also wise to avoid distortion.  Modellers have been using the planking method for many years and there is an awful lot written on the subject.
 
To paraphrase a famous Field Marshal "Time spent in research is seldom wasted!"
 
The choice of glue is as varied as ways of bending.  The "Gorilla" glue already mentioned.  some other types of polyurethane,  PVA which is probaly best known as Elmer's where you are,  Epoxy and CA (Super Glue) can all be used, once more it's personal preference.  I happen to like high viscosity super glue but you should find what suits you.
 
 
Personally I bend dry planks using an old guitar rib bender.  I push the plank against the heated block with a layer of wet paper towel between the two.  The steam permiates the wood and it will bend.  I've also used it with wet wood using the paper towel to prevent the wood scorching. 
          I hope this helps.
 
p.s.  If all else fails, there's always fibreglass.
     

[andrewh]

Hi, Mark
 
Not a silly question at all - the whole answer is either or both
If you are using a glue which likes or needs "DRY" - you clamp it up and leave it to dry and take the shape, then glue it
If the glue likes or needs moisture - like the PU gloo mentioned by Derek do it in one stab with lots of clamping
(white glues and cyanos also like wet planks to glue - but cyanos will cure nearly instantly with no wiggle-time)
 
As well as the clamps mentioned by Derek (You can NEVER have too many clamps) I use rubber strip (aeromodeller ) to wrap right round the hull and apply gentle even pressure - you can trap things under the strip to apply special pressure - for example at concave bits of hulls)

To get the bend in planks I soak the plank in hot water and use the barrel of a soldering iron ro apply heat while I wangle it to a goood shape - then apply to the hull and clamp down to dry
 
pictures of your progress would be much welcomed
andrew

[pettyofficernick]

Hullo Mark, all of the above, plus, I use an old vegatable steamer to steam the planks, very handy, nicked mine off the missus when the health fad wore off. If you use pins, don't push them all the way in, you can then remove them when all is dry. My preference is thick cyano, using damp timber gives an almost instant set, so you have to be accurate when placing the planks. There is a really informative book entitled Building Plank On Frame Ship Models, It covers mainly sailing ships but the techniques are the same.     http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Books/Books_76299.htm   
Good luck with the build,
Nick.

[CGAux26]

I have built only one plank on frame hull, the Midwest Jim Wilder II.  I was very nervous before I started.  The planks are thin balsa strips that are glued over plywood frames.  Midwest's instructions say to soak the balsa planks in something like Windex (containing ammonia).  I made a plank soaker from a piece of 2" plastic pipe, longer than the 36" balsa stock, with a glued on end and a screwed on end.  Stand the plank soaker on end.  Pour in the Windex, push a plank (or several) in and screw the cap on.  Let it soak 30 minutes or more.  Remove the plank and wipe off excess Windex with your fingers.  It will be limp as cooked pasta.  Apply thick CA to 3-5 frames and set the plank, which is still wet.  Hold it with your fingers 30-60 seconds until the CA grabs (not your fingers, please  ).  On the second and succeeding rows of planks, apply CA to the frames and the edge of the planks.  The CA and the planks will dry and be workable in an hour or 3.


Works great!