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[old shrimper]

hi guys
im looking for some angled windows for the out side of the superstructure on my T/C build simlar to the ones in the pic
i can only find square ones or port holes

[Neil]

i think you are going to have to construct those yourself shrimper, from plasticard.
 
I make mine from p/c and then use micro thin double sided craft tape to stick the "window glase" to it, and then use the double sided tape again to stick the assembly to the model.......avoids any runs with glue/cyano and stays where it's put.
 
neil.

[old shrimper]

hi Neil
how do cut the P/C neatly i tried some very thin  plastic cutting board about 1.5 mm thick but it goes heary when i try to sand the edges ?

[thunderchild]

Good Day

I use Evergreen clear plastic sheet (you can get it in various thicknesses) to make my windows, you can cut it using a stanley knife. Then I use Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker to stick the plastic windows to the model, it also makes the glass for small scuttles. It's a milky colour, but dries clear and sets hard, and if you spill any, it can be cleaned up with water. It makes life so much easier.

[Coastal]

best way i find to do it , is to layup a set of exact size window frames in photoshop etc etc, and print them at exact scale onto thick card or paper, with the paper ones i then stick them to thin ( .20) plastikard with a little liuid poly then with a sharp scapel and a ruler cut them out, remember do the inside first or you will bend all the frames. this gives you a perfect frame, I do this for nearly every frame job i need too.. I did just post a set of frames on the forum last night actually for the Deans Marine Whaleback. If you can give me the exact measurements for the frames I may be able to run you up a template set too ? I use formula 560 canopy glue to glue mine in , it dries clear and is neat and very sticky !
 

[Neil]

I just use a very fine grade sand paper to sand them down once cut, which reduces the "hairiness"
 
neil.

[waxy]

As the windows on my ferry build are both squares and rectangles I'll probably use model ladders sat horizontal, easier than trying to cut dozens of windows exactly the same size in rows

[thunderchild]

Good Day

Sorry I mis-read the thread, I use evergreen channel with thin flat strips behind to hold it together, the clear plastic then slips into the channel, it takes longer, but I find it gives a better looking window.

[old shrimper]

hi guys thank for the tips so far im trying to source some of the things that were mentioned
my be a bit harder over here
what other glue works on plastic card ?
super glue is hopeless so is varnish
thanks Bob

[Coastal]

Hiya , Humbrol Liquid poly i checked and you can get it in australia, any sort of mec pac, revell plastic glues ,
This is what i use , chuck the brush they supply and buy some cheap paintbrushes !
http://www.rcworld.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/0a9fe79d2b5faaba156598bbeddf6825/3/8/3875.JPG
 

[old shrimper]

Good Day

I use Evergreen clear plastic sheet (you can get it in various thicknesses) to make my windows, you can cut it using a stanley knife. Then I use Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker to stick the plastic windows to the model, it also makes the glass for small scuttles. It's a milky colour, but dries clear and sets hard, and if you spill any, it can be cleaned up with water. It makes life so much easier.

where do you get the testors clear parts cement from ?

[old shrimper]

best way i find to do it , is to layup a set of exact size window frames in photoshop etc etc, and print them at exact scale onto thick card or paper, with the paper ones i then stick them to thin ( .20) plastikard with a little liuid poly then with a sharp scapel and a ruler cut them out, remember do the inside first or you will bend all the frames. this gives you a perfect frame, I do this for nearly every frame job i need too.. I did just post a set of frames on the forum last night actually for the Deans Marine Whaleback. If you can give me the exact measurements for the frames I may be able to run you up a template set too ? I use formula 560 canopy glue to glue mine in , it dries clear and is neat and very sticky !

thanks for that but i have never  used  photo shop
i will have a look at it

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

Trace or draw out your windows, then you can lay wax paper over the drawing and
build your frames. If you build the inside dimension of your frame a bit smaller than your opeing, then
you can account for rounded corners, and give yourself a ledge to inset a piece of clear styrene or PVC.

I did these in 1/32. Built two and cast the rest.
However, for two other frames, I just built them up, as we only needed two.

 

[thunderchild]

Good Day

where do you get the testors clear parts cement from ?

Most hobby shops should have it, I get mine from Stanbridges here in Perth.

[old shrimper]

Trace or draw out your windows, then you can lay wax paper over the drawing and
build your frames. If you build the inside dimension of your frame a bit smaller than your opeing, then
you can account for rounded corners, and give yourself a ledge to inset a piece of clear styrene or PVC.

I did these in 1/32. Built two and cast the rest.
However, for two other frames, I just built them up, as we only needed two.

 

WOW that's a nice job ill have a go at that to , bit fiddly for my big thumbs and poor eye sight though  im using a watch makers visor now 
and i need 12 angled windows 

[old shrimper]

Good DayMost hobby shops should have it, I get mine from Stanbridges here in Perth.

thanks for that
cheers

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

You could also build a jig out of some scrap wood, or match sticks to get the correct angle.
Building into a two sided jig would allow you to build a bunch of top and side frames, and if
they are reversed, they become side and bottom frame. You can cut them to size and then
glue the other two corners.

 

[old shrimper]

You could also build a jig out of some scrap wood, or match sticks to get the correct angle.
Building into a two sided jig would allow you to build a bunch of top and side frames, and if
they are reversed, they become side and bottom frame. You can cut them to size and then
glue the other two corners.

 

that a great idea i have one i cut out of ply for a trail size ( but i couldn't seam replercate it to my satisfaction 
it does need the slanted ones i think ?