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[Landlocked]

Hi,

Are there any thumb rules with respect to lagging board width and thickness when lagging? What looks good?  I'm using mahogany.

I have a 3 1/2 inch MaccSteam.  The prototype was a scotch boiler so there's no scaling matching.

Thanks,

Landlocked

[ooyah/2]

Hi Landlocked,
 Most of the boilers that I have made I have lagged them with 4 mm thk ceramic wool, the kind that the loco boys use, and then I hold the lagging on with either tin plate or Aluminium.
I know that my mates favourite way is to soak the ceramic wool in wall paper paste and wrap it around the boiler with string and leave to dry overnight.
When dry he glues on 3/8" x 1/8" timber, taking a small chamfer on each edge with a smear of glue on each edge.
When this process is dry he sands it all over , varnishes and then adds brass boiler bands.

Here is a link to another site mainly by members on your side of the pond.  http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/index.php   who may be able to help you source  materials in U.S.A.

Perhaps some of the M.B.M. members can post their methods.

George.

[Landlocked]

Too hot to do anything outside so getting to work on the hobby during the summer.

I'm going to try 1/4 in wide by 1/16 in thick.  3/16 wide seemed too narrow, 3/8 seemed too wide.  1/16 thick is 1 in when converted by scale.

I have some 3 mm ceramic wool.  Going to follow the general technique from this thread.  Still choosing my adhesive.

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=31545.0

Ken

[Landlocked]

Note:  This is a re-post due to server issues.
------
Here's the result.  Overall I'm pleased.

I made a paper template and used it for the ceramic wool but then had to readjust the locations on the side and bottom holes due to the increased circumference from the wool.

I backbeveled the edges of the boards with sandpaper after using spray varnish

Originally I tried to punch out the circles for the wood as well be it must have been too thick.  Tried a hole saw but the teeth were too coarse and the double stick tape too weak.  Ended up using a Dremel tool.

 I dyed the edges of the ceramic wool with wood stain to blend them in.  Due to the various positions of the fittings, I had to position my bands a little more inboard than I would have liked.  I had to grind out a section of the 2nd band to fit between the funnel and the relief valve.

I didn't use glue.  I used carpet weight double sticky tape after the office variety was too weak.  Do not run the tape to the ends.  It is VERY hard to cut and remove after I trimmed the boards back.  Tape was mostly for positioning.  The bands hold everything in place.

Ken

[steamshy]

Hi , I just could  not go  past a trial using plywood, I cut a few lengths of cladding roughtly the size and width that looked right for my boiler perspective wise, It was a cheap alternative to mahogany planking as the plywood (3 Ply ) had a mahogany type finish.
I just held them all in place with  elastic bands until I could fit the boiler bands, It looked ok too.
Steamshy