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[john44]

The connectioin twixt batt and esc by tamiya I simply  fitted Tamiya extension and then fitted Fuse in th positive leg  To run without fuse  just remove extension . There is no seperate feed for the RX though have a feeling in me water   the R/c Saturn   might be a bit iffy . Will knock up a rough drawing   later today
 thanks for all other input

HI jaymack, drawing that sort of amperage through a Tamiya connector, the connector
won,t last long they are only rated to 15 amps.

john

[ukmike]

A simple cure to try would be to change the fuse for an Anti-Surge type. That may well cure the problem.

Give me a ring on the number in the PM that I have sent to you and I will explain the probable cause of the fuse blowing on connecting the battery.

A digital multi meter may not be fast reacting enough to show the cause of the fault.

Mike.

[fredd]

If it only blows fuse when extension is used,seems like the wires are crossed?

[John W E]

hi ya jaymac
just a thought, do all the props and motors turn freely by hand? no tightness in any of the shafts.  Have you tried disconnecting the couplings so that the propshafts don't turn, only the motors and tried the fuse in then? see if it pops the fuses,
I know Johnson motors of the 555 type tend to draw between 1.5 and 2 amps running free and that when they start up they can draw excessive amounts of amperage, but I would have thought not enough to blow a 40 amp fuse, even on start up.  Also when you are running all 3 motors unfused does the cable from your battery or any of the cables get warm cos if we are thinking the motors are drawing 40 amps or thereabouts, looking at the pics of the cables on your motors, I would be expecting the insulation to start melting, especially when you come to putting the model in the water.   I think you might have a naff motor or maybe one of the shafts is tight.
aye
john

[Martin (Admin)]

Aye John! 

[Circlip]

Must be a nell of an ESC if it's surviving after a 40A fuse is letting go?
 
   Regards  Ian.

[Martin (Admin)]

Do you have full control on your motors?
Ie. slow to fast to slow OK?

[jaymac]

Do you have full control on your motors?
Ie. slow to fast to slow OK?

Initial start  slight stutter then ok and havent run  (dry)longer than a few minutes but no sign of heat  during that period. Methinks  I might try different type of fuse  before messing with any wiring. Tried once in the lake  damned thing went ok a few feet  then went int  High reverse = Stern well under a water . some how  got it stopped and out . No damage done  did think perhaps signal lost and  R/C  was set to failsafe aircraft fashion which would have caused that but  dryland checks  everything just stop on TX off  or  going out of range
 

[cos918]

Hello
A few things .
1 A tamiya plug will not handel 40ah for long it will melt.
2 to genrate +40ah you are going to a dead short . Thoes motors would all have to be a stall to genrate that current and even then it might not be enough . but  you say you can run for a few min on low power then it went out of control. This means the motors / shaft are free . This is not to say there could be a bit of a bind in them.
There are 2 things it might be.
1 that not a 40ah fues you have . 40ah is not a common car size fues .What colour is your fues?
2 you have a motor on the way out . It may have a bad joint in the comutator. which some times shorts and other times run ok. I have seen this. A Amp test on each motor would point out which one it is.

If you are running 3 motors I would run 3 fues lower rating after the ESC with 1 going to each motor. If a motor stall or fails it will blow that fues and you have 2 motors to get in on. Still keep the main fues between the battery and the ESC.
I have to agree with other a photo would help .

John

[jaymac]

Fuse is   orange amber coloured similar to the  liquid I'm about to  resort to 
 OK just tried this   put the extension  back in  bypassed fuse and its stillok  so nowt wrong with the extension? . Now heres the thought for tonight  just tried a bog standard  domestic 13Amp fuse and it did not blow to my limited knowledge  a fuse is ok as long as not used Above its rated voltage only the amp rating governing/ What say?
Thanks loads for all the input  slowly digesting
Jay

[grendel]

is it 40A or could it be possibly 4.0A?
try a 20A or 30A car fuse and see if that blows (should be spares in your cars fusebox - start with the biggest) does sound like the 40A fuses you have may not be (40mA?)
Grendel

[grendel]

if its one of these - http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-375-40-pack-of-10-durite-40a-standard-automotive-blade-fuse-orange-7209.html?gclid=CMTf4v_l5LkCFVMftAodbzwAsw they are 40A continuous rating - 80A blow.
Grendel

[Mad_Mike]

yellow/amber is also the same colour for a 5 amp blade fuse. It varies in colour shade between manufacturer of course. Theyre could be a possible mix up in the pack. Even so to pop a 5amp fuse on intial start up though is a still a large surge.
On the tamiya extension lead have you looked at the tamiya plugs themselves for any stray wire strands that havent been crimped probably  possibly causing intermitant shortages across the back of the connetors?
Overall if it isnt any of those and the fact it went into a random reverse id say its a dodgy esc. Maybe a H bridge short.
For those of you who may be interested ive recent purchased myself a watt meter from giantcod, it has 130A limit at 60v. You have to add your own connectors to it but then you simply plug it between the battery and esc, it works great and gives you a live reading of your amperage, voltage and wattage. I reccomend it. 
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/171035/gt-power-130a-watt-meter-and-power-analyser

[irishcarguy]

Your power supply is going straight to ground, dead short in one of 4 places, either one of the three motors or the ESC. Disconnect each in turn & switch on, when you have disconnected the one causing the short the fuse will not blow & you will have found the source of the short. Mick B.

[jaymac]

 Further to last nights check with a 13 amp fuse  which never blew   Today I   gota new blade fuse  35A  due they had no 40's on looking closely  at  the 35 I'm pretty sure  the ones that blew were not 40's  despite  the labeling and colour much less meat on the   link. Anyroad fitted the 35 and NO Blow.
 So bath trials commenced   ran forward/reverse  about 5 mins no immediate sign of heat .Then lost forward drive  and  but still had reverse . wiggling forward stick no  drive but Rudder started     responding .  then whilst   stick  fully forward Wham full reverse  like i got in the pond Methinks either RC or  esc  a bummer,
As I have no spare esc to try  and reluctant to  spend my hard earned pension   till I'm sure its that.I'm  going to try  with my planet  rc tomorrow
Thanks again to all for their input  and apologies Moderator if the latter part of this should be a new post
Jay

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

No probs Jay.

A very challenging problem which has stretched the old grey noodles a bit.     It does sound like a temperamental  'set up'   you have there and we 'd be interested in the final solution.

Best of luck

Ken

[jaymac]

Think I got the final solution the 'blinking!' Esc is dead now
Today i  rmoved the RX over to another boat   tried it in that very strange happenings   could not really get the throttle and rudder working on the correct sticks. once when I had  the throttle ok on the  left stick any lateral movement  moved the rudder .  Thought aha  it might be the rc thats at fault  so Plan B  fit  my planet Rx in the  PT   looked promising for a few minutes the the Batt died
 Replaced batt then lost  all power  no fuse blown but as far as I cn check no power out from the Esc  to the Rx Sooooooo  looks as if   a new Esc or two is required
any suggestions on that front welcomed
i do have  a pair of esc;s in an unused boat  thinking  using them  on just 2 of the motors  for nowjust to at least get the damn thing going. What a wonderful relaxing Hobby this is
Jay

[jaymac]

Well Gentlemen with fingers and everything else crossed methinks  I have won
The fuse problem was undoubtedly a Red Herring Albeit time consuming
I have just fitted a new  Esc  and on switch on all ok on dry running all ok none of the glitches  of previous when I could run
Finally I done 2x 5 mins trials in the bath and all seemed fine no heat in either 3 motors or Esc . Hopefull some lake trials soon
Again Thanks to all  who contributed much appreciated
Jay

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

                       


ken

[john44]

well done Jay, these problems crop up I think for most of us at 1 time or another
I have had my fair share.
 

john

[RAAArtyGunner]

 
Any reason, you have not mentioned the brand/type of ESC at fault????

[jaymac]

Any reason, you have not mentioned the brand/type of ESC at fault????

Hi yes simply because  it is unbranded as are the motors  but this is on a  Graupner Premium line  PT596 RTR which retails for over  £400 . As I did not buy it new dont want to badmouth it too much but  believe me  everything on it was brand new. luckily  I paid  much much less than that for her
Jay

[RAAArtyGunner]

Hi yes simply because  it is unbranded as are the motors  but this is on a  Graupner Premium line  PT596 RTR which retails for over  £400 . As I did not buy it new dont want to badmouth it too much but  believe me  everything on it was brand new. luckily  I paid  much much less than that for her
Jay

 

[old shrimper]

brand name BLOW up too see my post
 blown up 8 esc 

[B.B]

IF the fuse only blows you are lucky ,as what Old Shrimper was saying we have seen 8 of these go off like this no crossed wires ,in the end you start to get a sweat up ,wondering if you will blow the fuse first or the ESC,,,fun and games,,,,,