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[glenpens]

Has anyone got a Team associated Manual for a R10 B2/3 for the Electric Buggy
Glen

[HS93 (RIP)]

this any good ?


http://www.theshreves.com/rc_stuff/manuals/ae_rc10/

[glenpens]

Thanks for the webb site.
I am not sure what Kit number I have for my R10 b2. But I am sure I can find information which I can use from the site
Glen

[kendalboatsman]

Hi Glen,

If you visit the team associated old website on this link http://aedownloads.com/downloads/manuals/b2_manual.pdf it will open to a pdf version of the B2 manual.

The link provided in the post above is for an original RC10 from the early eighties, I used to race one of those and I could never get the ratio right and it would only ever go 4 1/2 min which is not good for 5 min racing :(  I stuck to schumacher 2wd after that.

Hope that helps
Clive

BTW if you don't mind me asking but where did you get hold of a B2 from ???

[glenpens]

Clive
What does BTW stand for. Anyway I got the B2 off ebay 2weeks ago.
Doesn't feel very happy on grasss for what I bought it for and if its like you say it only runs for 4 1/2 min I am in trouble
I will try that web site later.
Glen :

[HS93 (RIP)]

I think its the update speck  Peter


http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/manuals/manuals_in_print.htm#Off

[kendalboatsman]

hi,

BTW usually means "By the way"  :)

The old RC10 had an alloy chassis and an inefficient gear train. The B2 models onward had a better gearbox and I believe a glass reinforced plastic chassis. Much more efficient overall, others got 5 min out of the old RC10, but mine only ever went 4 1/2 min even when I tried there motor and ratio combination. The car was second hand and I suspect it either had a lot of drag somewhere or my 1200 scr nicads weren't up to it. Although they were ok in other cars?

I currently have a Bigwig I am trying to get fully restored then I will take it to my local club for a race  If they let me.

A good source for parts etc is Modelsport, they may even have some B2/B3 bits in stock. What spec is yours ??? They were available in Basic, Sport and Team versions.

Clive :)

[kendalboatsman]

Forgot to mention tyres, for grass running you will need spike tyres. The mini spikes might be ok but sometimes don't grip sufficiently. They are better on dirt or carpet. You need to get the suspension set ups as well. Too low and it will drag the undertray and slide on corners because the wheels don't grip.

[glenpens]

Clive
Thanks for your help. Now printed the manual, just got to read it now.
I think I will have to get some spike tyres
Glen

[kendalboatsman]

Hi Glen,

Ask at your local club or model shop and they should be able to recommend good tyres.  :)

Clive

[Martin13]

hi,

BTW usually means "By the way"  :)

The old RC10 had an alloy chassis and an inefficient gear train. The B2 models onward had a better gearbox and I believe a glass reinforced plastic chassis. Much more efficient overall, others got 5 min out of the old RC10, but mine only ever went 4 1/2 min even when I tried there motor and ratio combination. The car was second hand and I suspect it either had a lot of drag somewhere or my 1200 scr nicads weren't up to it. Although they were ok in other cars?

Clive :)

I used to race an RC10 in state championships in Oz, back in the late 80's (won a few trophy's too). Got rid of the standard chassis and installed a carbon fibre chassis, modified suspension ie different spring rates and oil weight. We also used to sand the teeth on the gears in the diff as when the buggy was new, their would be small burrs on the gears which made a huge difference and lastly 1700MAh racing packs. Under competition conditions, good for 6 minutes plus.
The RC10 is a great buggy and a lot can be done to make it go quicker, handle better and last longer - I also used to remove windings off the motor.

Martin Down Under

[alan colson]

What memories, BigWig, Hotshot, Frog, rc10, Zerda, Kyosho Optima, great days out racing in the Tamiya Challenge and Radio Race Car championships.
Alan