Topic: Jerry C does some turning & milling and builds a new steam plant. (Read 102567 times)

Jerry C · « **Reply #250 on:** July 20, 2014, 02:55:45 pm »

The new baby has arrived. Put 95 miles on her. Did the snowdonia circuit and didn't have to push her up Pen Y Pas! Luxury!
Jerry.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #251 on:** July 20, 2014, 03:59:36 pm »

Nice bike, where are you going to put your boat?

Jerry C · « **Reply #252 on:** July 23, 2014, 09:33:12 am »

The last few says I have mostly been motorcycling and training for TDM but managed to do a bit of modifying for the rotary table. I bought a 50 mm 3 jaw chuck which came with an adaptor threaded 14 mm x 1 mm with a 10 mm threaded spindle. I cropped the spindle an turned a 5 mm spigot on the end to locate in the table centre. Then I milled cuts on the fixed part of the chuck to accept hold downs. I made four extended thread T nuts. 4 into three doesn't leave much room near two of the jaws and at the moment grip is tenuous but when I get some 1" angle iron I will make a better job of it. It gets it done, though if I was only making one part it's quicker to use coordinates but I've got loads to do and with this set up its a doddle.
Jerry.

Jerry C · « **Reply #253 on:** August 01, 2014, 07:07:39 pm »

The last week has been a bummer. The 3mm rods out of hard drives are as the name suggests HARD. A few were ok but work hardened with every operation. Cutting the 8 & 6 BA threads was a lottery. Then I left the window open and it rained in and soaked my digital callipers. Stripped them down and attempted a fix but no good. However my digital depth gauge had gone bush a while ago so s or bust had a go at them with success.
Back to the piston rods. I had to anneal the rods after every operation and finally got them done. Then a strange thing happened. While looking for the drawing for the piston I spotted a drawing for the piston rods showing them at 60mm long and I was sure they were 50mm. So bad words, kick the dog and sling them in the waste bin. Sourced some more rods, knocked the drawings on the deck, recovered them and found another drawing saying they were meant to be 50mm as I thought. Turns out the 60 figure was to allow for mods later. Spent 10 minutes searching the bin, cutting finger tips several times, (blood is an essential part of the annealing process). Managed with micrometer until new callipers arrived.
Next I made the pistons. Only trick here is to make them oversize in diameter and length. Then mount onto piston rod and then turn down to size, cut the ring groove. This ensures they are concentric with the rods, and it's job done.
Next it's the pillars and the block plate. Then I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy some brass for the cylinder blocks.
Jerry.

Jerry C · « **Reply #254 on:** August 09, 2014, 06:33:37 pm »

I've had a lot on since the last post but managed a bit more over the last 3 days. First, the columns/pillars. Had some 6mm round stainless so this was the size. Faced off one end, centre drilled, tapping drill for 6BA followed by taper tap and finally plug tap. Cut a countersink in way of thread to avoid threads pulling up and allowing ends to lie flat on plates increasing stiffness. Moved piece out of the chuck and supported end on tailstock centre before parting off to length. My top plate is thicker than the 2mm specified so shortened the pillars to compensate. Reversed piece in chuck and threaded end. Repeat 7 times.
Next cut 2 blanks out of 3mm aluminium plate for top plates. Marked up and spotted centre. Place both plates In milling vice, found centre then again, same as baseplate, used the machine to find centres and drilled all holes. The clearance holes for bottom plates/glands I used a step drill. Went through like a knife through butter. Does a great job.
Bolted both top plates together and removed unnecessary material in milling attachment before removing all toolmarks on dressing plate.
Made 2 sets of little end (gudgeon/wrist) pins. Not sure what they are called in this context. Just got to cut some screwdriver slots in the ends with the slitting saw. All that remains in this section is crosshead guide rods(

and conrods(4) then it's onwards and upwards to cylinders and valve gear. Going to have to throw some money at them I'm sad to say.
Jerry.

SailorGreg · « **Reply #255 on:** August 09, 2014, 06:53:40 pm »

Looking good Jerry

You make it sound so easy!

Greg

Jerry C · « **Reply #256 on:** August 09, 2014, 07:18:31 pm »

Thanks Greg, the more I practice the easier it gets. Drilling the holes is a matter of converting from metric to imperial, working from the two datum lines(in this case centres), approach each hole in same direction to eliminate backlash problems and making notes for a drilling plan and NO interruptions. Lovein' it!
Jerry.

derekwarner · « **Reply #257 on:** August 10, 2014, 12:45:13 am »

Morning Jerry......progress is very good

....just one question....what are the burnished bands on each of the engine columns/pillars?......

Glad the step drill provided good results......I have mixed results with the same when drilling in a drill press .....Derek

Jerry C · « **Reply #258 on:** August 10, 2014, 04:04:04 am »

Good arfo Derek, burnishing on pillars is old Navy trick for tarting up steel handrails for Captains Rounds. Rubbed them with emery cloth axially then put in lathe chuck and put the bands on with a narrow strip of cloth. Just for fun really, all will be painted before it all goes in a boat. Too hard to keep clean otherwise.
Jerry.

derekwarner · « **Reply #259 on:** August 10, 2014, 04:44:02 am »

...yes even as a civilian...we were required to instruct & supervise dissimilar tart-up work on missile launchers & gun mounts for the 'Snow Flake" [Admirals] inspections

....Derek

Jerry C · « **Reply #260 on:** August 11, 2014, 06:08:33 pm »

Today I started making the crosshead guide rods. I had no 4mm stainless stock so had to turn some larger stock down to 4mm. Started by centre drilling, tapping drill , taper tap and plug tap for 8 BA thread in one end of stock. Next I turned a 39mm length down to 4mm. Not successful. Although the chuck and tailstock centres are true I ended up with one end 2 thou undersize. This stainless steel is hard working and I suspect that the rod is springing a bit at the tailstock end. Then while cleaning out the thread by hand, as I tightened up the tap wrench with the tap in the piece I stupidly held the piece and broke the tap off inside the hole. Doh!! So back up to my friendly factory in Llanberis to try and bum some 4mm scrap. I thought I would take one of the engines to show the lads what their generosity was helping to make. They were generous in their praise also and while they had no scap rods they were as it just so happened doing a production run of some parts in 4mm and let me have a dozen pieces. Result!! all I had to do was cut them to length and thread one end. Motto of Wolverhampton Borough Council- "Out of Darkness Cometh Light".
Tomorrow the conrods.
Jerry.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #261 on:** August 11, 2014, 06:54:08 pm »

Looking good Jerry, Here is a picture of mine underway, got as far as baseplate and mains, just building crankshaft....

Jerry C · « **Reply #262 on:** August 11, 2014, 07:18:07 pm »

Hi Nick, can't see that base flexing, split mains too? What is it going to be?
Jerry.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #263 on:** August 11, 2014, 08:11:36 pm »

Hi Jerry, look here and all will be revealed...... http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3969.0

Jerry C · « **Reply #264 on:** August 12, 2014, 06:29:17 pm »

Today was conrod day. Out of a scrap ballcock arm I made four round blanks. Put them in turn into the milling attachment and squared them off to 6.5mm square. Rearranged the mill put one piece in, found the end edge and centre, moved the mill 3.5 mm, drilled and reamed the 4mm big end. Moved the mill 28.5mm and drilled and reamed the 4mm little end. Shipped a 1/4 end mill and milled away 1.25 mm from little end. Rotated the piece and milled 1.25mm off other side. Repeated three more times. Finally, shipped the 4 jaw chuck, put a big end in it and turned the middle down until it looked right. Tidied up with emery tape and finished off the other three. Should have some uppy downy movement tomorrow.
Jerry.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #265 on:** August 12, 2014, 06:43:55 pm »

Very nice, are you going to split the big ends?

Jerry C · « **Reply #266 on:** August 12, 2014, 06:47:52 pm »

No Nick, not necessary, the journal slides through the crank webs and the big end. However will tidy up little ends, they look a bit rough in these pics.
Jerry

Jerry C · « **Reply #267 on:** August 14, 2014, 05:38:34 pm »

Up and downie bits!! A slight tight spot but eased after spinning with hand drill.
Jerry.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #268 on:** August 14, 2014, 05:43:08 pm »

Excellent reciprocating form, lookin good, at this rate you will have it in a boat before summers out......

SailorGreg · « **Reply #269 on:** August 15, 2014, 07:33:57 am »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on August 14, 2014, 05:43:08 pm

Excellent reciprocating form, lookin good, at this rate you will have it in a boat before summers out......

... you'd better get on with building the boat then Jerry!

Jerry C · « **Reply #270 on:** August 15, 2014, 07:53:33 am »

One thing at a time boys. I can't multi task, or I explode! However I'm always keeping a weather eye out for a suitable 4'-5' GRP launch hull.
Jerry.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #271 on:** August 15, 2014, 08:32:20 am »

I can recommend Kingston Moldings, excellent quality at reasonable cost.... http://www.kingstonmouldings.co.uk/home.htm

SailorGreg · « **Reply #272 on:** August 15, 2014, 12:11:28 pm »

Or possibly the steam picket hull from Models by Design http://www.modelsbydesign.co.uk/model_boats.aspx ? 50" long and although it is intended as a closed hull I'm sure your fertile mind and skilled hands can create a lovely launch (I am assuming you want to keep the steam plant in sight - I certainly would if I'd built what you are building!

)

Greg

Jerry C · « **Reply #273 on:** August 15, 2014, 12:55:43 pm »

Greg, that's about right. Any ideas on max prop size for this one, bigger the better.
Jerry.

derekwarner · « **Reply #274 on:** August 19, 2014, 08:06:22 am »

Jerry...going back a few weeks

.......

1. you have one crank eccentric in brass/bronze & one crank eccentric in iron/steel......
2. will you use alternate composite materials for each respective eccentric band?

Derek

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Author Topic: Jerry C does some turning & milling and builds a new steam plant. (Read 102567 times)