Topic: Micro Drill ? (Read 9619 times)

Bob K · « **on:** March 05, 2015, 06:04:46 pm »

Micro Drill ?

I am looking for a VERY small electric drill, suitable for 0.5mm drills for stanchion hole drilling. I have a Rotacraft (like a Dremel) but it is massively unwieldy for such tiny drills without incurring loads of breakages in operation. Frankly a Dremel for 0.5 drills is as pointless as using a full size Black & Decker.

Something that could be handled like a wide-bodied pen, maybe a small model boat motor with a chuck or collet head. I already have small Archemedes ‘pump’ and small collect holders. It would be nice to get something as hand-controllable as a miniature electric engraving tool.

Any ideas anyone? Drilling for a couple of hundred stanchions is becoming a regular requirement.

radiojoe · « **Reply #1 on:** March 05, 2015, 06:25:58 pm »

Hi Bob RS Online has a few electric mini drills may be what your looking for.

Howard · « **Reply #2 on:** March 05, 2015, 06:59:41 pm »

Try flea bay, Put in Nail polishers or mini nail drill,I got one about a year ago £40 or less great variable speed forward and reveres even has a foot pedal, and soft start.
Regards Howard.

Plastic - RIP · « **Reply #3 on:** March 05, 2015, 07:04:21 pm »

Look for a PCB drill - designed for very small drills £12

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Precision-PCB-12V-DC-6000-RPM-Mini-Drill-Kit-/371251742020?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5670540544

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #4 on:** March 05, 2015, 07:09:06 pm »

Or perhaps a hand drill

grendel · « **Reply #5 on:** March 05, 2015, 07:27:13 pm »

maplin do this set I have 2 of these only finger thick:- http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/18-v-variable-speed-rotary-tool-and-60-piece-accessory-set-n14bg

Jerry C · « **Reply #6 on:** March 05, 2015, 07:48:26 pm »

Hasn't your Dremel got the flexible extention. The tool on the end is like a fat fountain pen. Works for me.
Jerry.

Bob K · « **Reply #7 on:** March 05, 2015, 08:44:11 pm »

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have a flexible drive with my Rotacraft drill, but it is unwieldy for 0.5 dia drills. Hand drills likewise, due to the need to keep perfectly straight with such a tiny fragile drill bit.
I am looking at PCB type drills, but still bulky and most for 0.8 dia upwards.

I am very tempted to make one by adapting a collet head to a very small model boat motor.
Ideally something like a thick marker pen that you can hold reasonably close to the cutting tip.

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #8 on:** March 05, 2015, 10:33:20 pm »

Like this?
http://www.banggood.com/WLXY-Mini-Electric-Hand-Drill-DIY-Electric-Drill-Drilling-Tool-Set-p-952213.html

they have the chuck & Collets too
http://www.banggood.com/0_5-3mm-Small-Electric-Drill-Bit-Collet-Micro-Twist-Drill-Chuck-Set-p-952211.html

or there's this
http://www.banggood.com/0_8-1_5mm-Mini-Aluminum-Electric-Drill-With-Power-Supply-p-956737.html

tigertiger · « **Reply #9 on:** March 06, 2015, 04:30:50 am »

I use a Tamiya Fine Pin Vice as a hand drill (see pics), I love it.
It has two double ended collet jaws (one in the collet another stored in the body). Allowing you to fit drill bits from about 0.1-3.2mm
The top rotates, so that you can apply gentle finger pressure to hold while you turn the body with your other hand.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fine-Pin-Vise-0-1~3-2mm-Tamiya/dp/B000J44ZSA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_h_b_cs_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0G89ME889Q1KND51MQFY

This one looks like it has a fatter body for more torque (not needed)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-Fine-Vise-0-1-3-2mm-74112/dp/B00EEOD03C/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_h_b_cs_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1E45FZKJB8DYCH95DKG5

Tamiya also do a larger modelling drill chuck. Hand tool.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TAMIYA-Tools-Modelling-Drill-Chuck/dp/B0027HYUZK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425615538&sr=8-5&keywords=tamiya+drill

And a small power tool
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-74041-Electric-Handy-Drill/dp/B000J46WZ4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_h_b_cs_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1E45FZKJB8DYCH95DKG5

Umi_Ryuzuki · « **Reply #10 on:** March 06, 2015, 08:14:53 am »

I built a jig, and drilled the 0.5mm or 0.020" holes for a barge build.
I used a pin vise as shown above to drill each stanchion placement.

boat captain · « **Reply #11 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:03:23 am »

I use a Dremel in a Dremel pillar drill stand. Set your boat up on your bench to its base line. You can then move the drill around to each station position drill your hole perfect every time.

tigertiger · « **Reply #12 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:16:42 am »

Yes, using a jig, as Umi did, keeps the holes at the correct spacing and square to the drilling surface.
I have used the same idea when drilling into the end of table legs.

Bob K · « **Reply #13 on:** March 06, 2015, 09:37:53 am »

Thank you everyone for your interesting and varied inputs. Appreciated.
I did like the tiny motor with pin chuck. Pity the Nail Engraver did not specify collet size.
With the intricate curvey nature of the deck profiles a jig will not be possible, unless possibly a single hole angle to get distance to edge right. I am going to have to do each by "eye" after measuring out spacing. This usually ends up breaking drills, which is why I was looking for close-in controllability.
I will probably end up with a pin vice holder, and order more drills. Thanks again

tigertiger · « **Reply #14 on:** March 06, 2015, 01:33:34 pm »

To be honest. I have never broken a drill yet with the pin vice, as you are working so slowly, and you have so much control/feel. Even though it is slow, a hole is drilled out in a few seconds.

Bob K · « **Reply #15 on:** March 06, 2015, 04:01:01 pm »

Last ship I drilled for 288 stanchions, at an even smaller scale / drill size. Broke 3 drills, which is not too bad.

I was asking to see if there is an easier, more controlled method, for keeping the drill on-target close to the deck edge whilst exactly vertical in two planes.

tigertiger · « **Reply #16 on:** March 06, 2015, 06:36:00 pm »

Even if only a one hole jig, if the jig is 3mm or more thick, made of a slightly harder material (like perspex) and is pre-drilled in a drill press (vertical in two planes), it should work fine. Basically the jig will act as a guide for the bit, keeping it all square. Using clear perspex would allow you to see exactly where you are placing the hole.

Using a 2+ hole jig for even spacing is even easier, just using a pin to locate the jig over the previous hole drilled, as in Umi's photo.

nemesis · « **Reply #17 on:** March 06, 2015, 07:00:27 pm »

Hi, the breakage could occur because the drill was blunt and worn out, nemesis

boat captain · « **Reply #18 on:** March 06, 2015, 07:29:46 pm »

Quote from: tigertiger on March 06, 2015, 06:36:00 pm

Even if only a one hole jig, if the jig is 3mm or more thick, made of a slightly harder material (like perspex) and is pre-drilled in a drill press (vertical in two planes), it should work fine. Basically the jig will act as a guide for the bit, keeping it all square. Using clear perspex would allow you to see exactly where you are placing the hole.

Using a 2+ hole jig for even spacing is even easier, just using a pin to locate the jig over the previous hole drilled, as in Umi's photo.

The problem with doing it that way is the fact that boats have sheer and camber to the decks. Placing a piece of material on the deck as you suggest would drill the holes vertical to the deck not vertical to the base line. So you would at the stern have stanchions leaning forward and at the bow stanchions leaning aft.

Umi_Ryuzuki · « **Reply #19 on:** March 06, 2015, 07:34:29 pm »

That just leads to making more than one jig or fixture and remembering to use the right one.

tigertiger · « **Reply #20 on:** March 07, 2015, 02:48:22 am »

Quote from: boat captain on March 06, 2015, 07:29:46 pm

...Placing a piece of material on the deck as you suggest would drill the holes vertical to the deck not vertical to the base line. ...

You would only drill square to the deck if the base line of the jig is horizontal. This obviously needs to be changed.

If the section of deck being drilled is at a camber of 5 degree, then the base of the jig needs a camber of 5 degrees. You can drill the squared donor piece for the jig, in the drill press, and then file/sand in the 5 degree camber before adding any depth/width stops. Where you have different cambers you will need different jigs, as Umi pointed out.

Jigs take only minutes to make and save perhaps hours of work, or a bad job.

warspite · « **Reply #21 on:** March 07, 2015, 11:35:52 am »

or build a threaded hole in various locations that allow a screw(s) with a rounded end to act as a levelling device, adjust the screw(s) to change the drilled hole position to the angle required, almost like chocking a corner up.

multifunction facility

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #22 on:** March 07, 2015, 02:27:29 pm »

This is a time when having a 3D printer actually comes into its own :)

Bob K · « **Reply #23 on:** March 07, 2015, 03:56:14 pm »

OK, looks like if you have a 1/96 to 1/60 ship, etched stanchions (and unless very easy straight lines of holes) then drilling them by ‘eye’ with a small hand pin vise is also the way most of us still do it.
I may make up a couple of single hole edge distance guides, but otherwise stanchioning is still a long job - like individual plank laying.

tigertiger · « **Reply #24 on:** March 08, 2015, 12:55:22 pm »

Hi Bob

If it is just depth from the edge, and you will do it by eye, you just need an edge guide (no hole), and rest the drill against the guide. That way you can see clearly where you are placing the bit. This will then work on any straight line or convex curve.

My explanation may not be clear, if anyone wants a picture, just holler.

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Author Topic: Micro Drill ? (Read 9619 times)