Topic: Deck Openings? (Read 23010 times)

tigertiger · « **Reply #25 on:** June 09, 2015, 11:33:32 am »

As DM has just reminded me, rubber bands.
My hatches have a very small coaming (6mm). There is a small screw eye in the keel, with a rubber band looped through, and a small cup hook attached to the bottom of the hatch covers (the green ones in the pic) . This works very well, even in quite steep waters.

tigertiger · « **Reply #26 on:** June 09, 2015, 11:42:34 am »

Dave also mentions the problem if glass panels are close to the deck. I worked around this for my port holes, but it may not always be suitable, for example if you have lots of squared windows.

With mine I cut down the high coaming, where the portholes would be, and then covered this will a clear plastic strip to reduce/eliminate ingress from that point.

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #27 on:** June 09, 2015, 12:00:18 pm »

What useful ideas has anyone got for sealing deck openings in flat decks?

Not you Ken!!!

inertia · « **Reply #28 on:** June 09, 2015, 12:09:28 pm »

By Jove, Mr Perry - that's devilish cunning!
DM

Stavros · « **Reply #29 on:** June 09, 2015, 12:24:24 pm »

Tiger Tiger maybee you should go to specsavers it was ME and not Dm who said about the rubber bands FIRST lol

Dave....stirring AGAIN

TheLongBuild · « **Reply #30 on:** June 09, 2015, 12:39:13 pm »

Quote from: Stavros on June 08, 2015, 10:30:27 pm

The simplest and cheapest way is ALLWAYS the best......use an old fasioned net curtain track holder you all know the oln the old Question mark screw...and use an elastic band there will be plenty around the floor around outside your houses dropped by your frendly postperson.......never had one fall off using this method and cheap as chips to replace

Dave

tigertiger · « **Reply #31 on:** June 09, 2015, 02:58:31 pm »

Quote from: Stavros on June 09, 2015, 12:24:24 pm

Tiger Tiger maybee you should go to specsavers it was ME and not Dm who said about the rubber bands FIRST lol

Dave....stirring AGAIN

Ha! Sorry Dave, you completely confused me with the curtain track thingy dropped by the postman. I said I got confused.

tigertiger · « **Reply #32 on:** June 09, 2015, 03:01:45 pm »

Quote from: Martin [Admin] on June 09, 2015, 12:00:18 pm

What useful ideas has anyone got for sealing deck openings in flat decks?

Not you Ken!!!

You could try to adapt the idea in the picture.
If you didn't want to use screws, you could still use rubber bands to hold the hatch down. You would need some sort of sealing, perhaps a bead ( or thick smear) of silicone or rubberised sealant (or draft excluder) left to dry before the hatch is closed.

Rottweiler · « **Reply #33 on:** June 11, 2015, 12:26:34 pm »

Comment removed - Admin

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #34 on:** June 11, 2015, 02:03:58 pm »

If you don't want any visible screws you can always use the magnets mentioned earlier they are fantastic and come in all different sizes. Then use a waterproof tape as a seal. The piece will just lift when pulled.

i used to fix aircraft engine nacelles with them and believe me when I say some of the bumpy landings I did didn't manage to remove them so they must be good. The bigger magnets even come with a warning not to let one jump to attach itself to another as the power could smash them. U2

Colin Bishop · « **Reply #35 on:** June 11, 2015, 02:10:30 pm »

For flush hatches that can be screwed down most of the time I have bought some of this stuff which looks as if it will be quite useful:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0085EAV2A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

It's marked as unavailable from Amazon at the moment but I imagine there are other suppliers.

Colin

sparkey · « **Reply #36 on:** June 11, 2015, 02:35:40 pm »

Got some in poundland the other week Colin,quite good for sealing superstructure and the like, as for securing rubber bands and curtain hooks works very well and is cheap as chips,I learnt this lesson many years ago when a gust caught the roof of a cabin cruiser I had and it took ages to recover from the lake,Ray.

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #37 on:** June 11, 2015, 03:55:34 pm »

Does it repel or absorb water? U2

Colin Bishop · « **Reply #38 on:** June 11, 2015, 04:03:17 pm »

The stuff I got is neoprene closed cell foam and should be completely waterproof. (Same stuff as used in wetsuits and drysuits) I don't know what the spec of the Poundland stuff is.

Colin

Bob K · « **Reply #39 on:** June 11, 2015, 04:10:15 pm »

Worth searching for is the MIL spec neoprene, used for numerous military applications. Costs a little more than £ Shops, but well worth the proverbial ha'p'ny worth of tar extra

sparkey · « **Reply #40 on:** June 11, 2015, 04:19:24 pm »

Colin,you can bet it is not as good but I have used it before and it is still OK after 18 months that's why I bought some more,the draft excluder tape is OK too and double sided which is handy,I don't buy much in poundland most is tack but 1 or 2 thing are useful so if it only lasts a few months cheap enough to replace, Ray.

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #41 on:** June 11, 2015, 04:58:54 pm »

Topic tided up and renamed.

Colin Bishop · « **Reply #42 on:** June 11, 2015, 05:21:40 pm »

Yes, I like to have a look round Poundland too, if I had seen it there I would probably have bought it but have been stuck indoors with a foot problem for a bit so have been browsing Amazon instead!

With my small models I tend not to open them up at the pondside if I can avoid it except for a little hatch to check for any water ingress. Getting the top off my Medea model means swinging out the lifeboat davits and detaching bits of rigging etc. which is a recipe for damaging the model on the bank. It's just too easy to be a bit clumsy and knock something off or bend the mast etc. When I get it home I do remove the superstructure in the safety of my workshop and ensure everything is dry and lubricated ready for next time.

Colin

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #43 on:** June 11, 2015, 08:13:01 pm »

Tigertiger nice pics of your boat, nice boat too!

tigertiger · « **Reply #44 on:** June 12, 2015, 12:31:02 am »

Thank you.
She is a modified Mary J Ward kit from Victor Models in the USA.

tigertiger · « **Reply #45 on:** June 12, 2015, 12:32:46 am »

For sealing hatches on a flat deck. Important to allow for the thickness of the sealing strip. Something that may become obvious afterwards

mermod · « **Reply #46 on:** June 12, 2015, 12:45:19 am »

Hi guys, if you check out my Damen build http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,42633.100.html about 6 posts down is a picture of my preferred method, there is a storm hatch that screws on like a sub might have then a decorative hatch that locates with magnets, not shown in the picture is the rubber seal but that would sit where the screws are.

Phill

Tugtower · « **Reply #47 on:** June 12, 2015, 02:44:23 am »

IF you want to add a combing to a flat deck there is another method.. you can make a rebated double coving to which to hatch slides into.. i just recently finished my latest sail boat.. which has that coving. although the coving stands above the deck by 5mm in this case there is no reason why the coving can't be achieved to give you a flat deck, it will however cost you internal depth space, and may not be appropriate if you have limited internal height.

There is no ''set rule'' on coving heights, all that's required is a tight fit and ther ability to keep water out, even the highest covings can lead to the loss of a wheel house or hatch if its a loose fit! The next few images show my new yachts and the coving depth is only 4mm and the boat has been drowned with no water ingress even after a 2 hour choppy race, the lid is a tight fit but can easily be removed with finger nail. Secured down with stainless steel screws which seal the securing holes.

Other methods are shallow covings, with high strength magnets to keep the hatch down , or the use of a pair of hooks one inside the boat, the other to the superstructure, and linked w a rubber band.

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #48 on:** June 12, 2015, 07:42:33 am »

Nice marquetry!

Tugtower · « **Reply #49 on:** June 12, 2015, 02:59:09 pm »

Thanks Martin,
Although in this case for the boat was built up using Parquetry not marquetry as i didn't do a veneered inlay for the model its a build up of wooded pieces and planks. (gave me material to work with to get a perfectly smooth surface so i could obtain that shine on the varnish)

full blog can be seen here... http://www.thercmodelboatforum.com/t887-wee-nip-build#9580

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Author Topic: Deck Openings? (Read 23010 times)

inertia

Stavros