Topic: 0.8 half round stanchions (Read 8590 times)

malcf · « **on:** August 24, 2015, 12:55:53 pm »

I want to make my own stanchions out of half round 0.8 dia brass formed like split pins has any one any ideas on making a tool to form these, I would reckon it would be simple and fast to use to be of any use ? I have access to a mill and a lathe and also welding equipment so making a tool should be ok just need to know were to start.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #1 on:** August 24, 2015, 09:03:29 pm »

Are we talking mm's here ? That is very small to be workable.

Also is it solid half round or half a tube. ? Do you plan to drill holes into it ?

Very interesting and watching how you get on

Cheers

ken

malcf · « **Reply #2 on:** August 24, 2015, 09:20:22 pm »

Hi ken yes it is solid d shaped brass wire it is 0.8mm dia and 0.4mm or so thick, I am thinking of drilling a block of steel and inserting 0.8 or maybe 1mm drill shanks starting with the top rail next rail 4mm along from it then three more at 3mm centers and then making some more blocks clamped together and drilling along the joint line of the two halves using the same centers and opening these out to 0.8 bigger than the pins then I want to somehow squeeze them together with the brass section bent in a U shape like a hair grip locate this around the top drill shank and the two legs of it on either side of the other drill shanks and squeeze the blocks together to form the brass around the shanks to form semi circles if you follow me them cut to length required.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #3 on:** August 25, 2015, 10:19:36 am »

Sorry but I'm even more confused now. It's probably all down to the use of millimetres

How can you drill a point 8 of a millimetre piece of material with a 1 millimetre drill.

Could you show us some drawings of the proposed structure please.

I have previous experience of drilling 300 brass stanchions with 0.8mm holes by using a jig and that was hard and tedious. I also found it impossible to drill holes under 1mm in size into steel with the amateur equipment I have.

ken

Captain Povey · « **Reply #4 on:** August 25, 2015, 11:50:09 am »

It sounds as if you are trying to make stanchions like those I buy from Mr Lane in Northumberland. He has all the tooling to make all sorts. He does not deal on the net. His stanchions cost 15p each. I am not sure if he is still around but he was still supplying in 2014. Cheers Graham

malcf · « **Reply #5 on:** August 25, 2015, 12:49:20 pm »

Hi graham yes that is the type I want but he does not do the configuration that I want, I would love to have a look at the tooling he uses for some ideas but it would be cheeky to ask him lol

Kenny I am not trying to drill the brass it is shaped round the drill shanks like a hair grip or split pin but with another four semi circular bends to form the round holes back to back, each half dia brass section forms one side of the stanchion.

boat captain · « **Reply #6 on:** August 25, 2015, 02:17:00 pm »

A lot of modelers use split pins as you say they make a jig with however many rails are required. You then using two pairs of flat pliers form stanchions around the uprights of your jig.

Brian60 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 25, 2015, 05:23:57 pm »

These sound as thought they are going to be tiny stanchions - 15-20mm in length and you want 4 holes in them. That is going to be some very intricate work to carry out . I think it would need a two part steel block, each part has a profile of the stanchion machined in it.

Then the first fold of your brass rod would be made in to your hairgrip shape and place between the blocks, then a 1 ton press to apply pressure to get them to take the shape of the steel blocks.

malcf · « **Reply #8 on:** August 25, 2015, 09:03:39 pm »

Hi brian it is 5 holes I need in them and yes you are thinking along the same lines as myself with the machined blocks, I was hoping for a lot less than a 1 ton press though maybe an engineers vice would suffice

and some way of keeping the blocks in alignment so it is not fiddly to do them.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #9 on:** August 25, 2015, 09:08:29 pm »

Annealing the wire will soften it so that less pressure is required but at the cost of stffness in the upright position, though your bending and crimping might actually work harden it again!

If you can get .85mm drills and use these as your pillars, then this would allow you to use a thinner .8mm wire for the rails with a little give so that the stanchions do not bow outwards.

nemesis · « **Reply #10 on:** August 25, 2015, 10:19:24 pm »

Jim Lane is still around, he was at the club the other Sunday. nemesis

thething84 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 26, 2015, 04:00:27 am »

keeping the blocks aligned with each other shouldn't be a problem. Just drill two interference holes in one block and two sliding clearance holes in other block to correspond with first block. Put pin in interference holes so they can't come out. other block will slide over pins keeping to blocks aligned to each other.

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #12 on:** August 26, 2015, 01:12:46 pm »

Quote from: thething84 on August 26, 2015, 04:00:27 am

keeping the blocks aligned with each other shouldn't be a problem. Just drill two interference holes in one block and two sliding clearance holes in other block to correspond with first block. Put pin in interference holes so they can't come out. other block will slide over pins keeping to blocks aligned to each other.

Me no speaka da inglis????? wat you say

Stavros · « **Reply #13 on:** August 26, 2015, 01:20:27 pm »

OK PLAIN lingo.....Drill a hole through the blocks and put a nut and bolt through them to keep them together so they cant move........got it ? ha ha

Dave

thething84 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 26, 2015, 08:36:10 pm »

If I can find a tool I made a while ago I will show u wat I mean. But you want your blocks to slide on two shafts in order to keep them aligned

RAAArtyGunner · « **Reply #15 on:** August 27, 2015, 12:37:48 am »

Quote from: Stavros on August 26, 2015, 01:20:27 pm

OK PLAIN lingo.....Drill a hole through the blocks and put a nut and bolt through them to keep them together so they cant move........got it ? ha ha

Dave

Man you have the gift of the gab well done

It was all Greek to me. Thank you

Captain Povey · « **Reply #16 on:** August 30, 2015, 04:17:50 pm »

Hi, From my experience I would suggest you need four guide pillars sliding in phosphor bronze bushes to keep the two halves aligned and a fly press or small arbour press would probably supply the required pressure. Cheers, Graham

malcf · « **Reply #17 on:** August 31, 2015, 12:52:32 pm »

Thanks everybody for your input i have just bought a half ton arbor press, have seen these many times on carboot sales etc and wondered what they where usefull for

now i know lol now to make some tooling for it!.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #18 on:** August 31, 2015, 08:29:26 pm »

That is serious stuff. How will you sneak that into the mancave?

malcf · « **Reply #19 on:** August 31, 2015, 10:25:35 pm »

Already sneaked in lol

malcf · « **Reply #20 on:** September 06, 2015, 06:44:34 pm »

Here is my first attempt at making the 5 bar stanchions-

malcf · « **Reply #21 on:** September 06, 2015, 07:01:53 pm »

A few pics of the setup so far

ballastanksian · « **Reply #22 on:** September 06, 2015, 07:47:55 pm »

They look good.

Does the top end come in and stay straight when the ends are held together or does it still try and spring out leaving a bowed appearance?

If so, is it worth annealing the end of the pre stamped stanchion before stamping the half circles in? Bending the wire into the initial staple will work harden the top curve and then crimping it into semi circles will harden it further. it might make them easier to work with when fitting, you probably don't want to anneal the whole stanchion, just the top.

malcf · « **Reply #23 on:** September 06, 2015, 08:29:03 pm »

)Will try annealing them and see if it makes any difference thanks, was thinking about tinning them after shaping keeping them squeezed together until cool ie:- dipping them in molten solder after applying flux hopefully not filling the holes up.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #24 on:** September 07, 2015, 07:52:59 pm »

I would consult soldering veterans on the tinning to confirm, but I reckon that as long as they are clean and to the right temperature, they should tin.

The model engineers usually 'Pickle' soldered items in an acid solution to remove grease. flux and scale before doing further work on the part.

The traditional pickle used is sulfuric, but these days Citric acid is mainly used as it is safer.

News:

Author Topic: 0.8 half round stanchions (Read 8590 times)

Stavros