Topic: Fake rivets (Read 12148 times)

MickT70 · « **on:** December 08, 2015, 07:41:09 pm »

I am currently attempting to finish a project which I started approx. 4 years ago!!!!! It is a 36 inch scale Perkasa fast patrol boat. I always like to get as much detail as I can, so, hen doing the superstructure, specifically the cabin and bridge I have made up some window frames. On photos of the real boat I notice that these frames are riveted to the cabin.
Does anyone have any tips for assimilating these rivets so they look good.

Thanks

nivapilot · « **Reply #1 on:** December 08, 2015, 08:00:00 pm »

I do believe I read, a thread on this very forum, that the person used 2mm self adhesive nail decorating dots, bought from fleabay.
If you check out the Rhyll Lifeboat thread, you might see some in use.

Stan · « **Reply #2 on:** December 08, 2015, 08:04:51 pm »

HI P/M sent.

Stan.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 08, 2015, 08:40:46 pm »

The scale military vehicle and aircraft detail sellers have printed in relief rivets in various scales and types. A Google search should lead you to them. I used glass beads but even at large scale it was painstaking gluing them on.

JimG · « **Reply #4 on:** December 08, 2015, 09:31:35 pm »

I used PVA woodglue on my Cruiser build. Take a short length of solder wire, dip one end in the PVA then touch to the surface of the model. It will leave a small dot behind which will dry and represent the rivet. With care you can produce different sizes of dots. You might need to add a little water to thin the glue and it does thicken when exposed to air.

Jim

Norseman · « **Reply #5 on:** December 08, 2015, 09:36:51 pm »

Ok - Not quite what you need this time around but http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1025991&page=4#post13229430 has a neat way to do it in aluminiun. The subject and build are a great read too.

Dave

boman · « **Reply #6 on:** December 09, 2015, 03:03:58 am »

Archer Dry Transfers do Raised rivets in most sizes and scales. The plastic modellers use them a lot on armor and aircraft etc.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 09, 2015, 11:58:34 am »

That is the ones I couldn't remember. probably from Hannants in UK, maybe not.

Stan · « **Reply #8 on:** December 09, 2015, 01:27:31 pm »

I use a company in Barrow in Furness who deals in military models. They stock products from a American company in their range rivets part number 156 I think is the largest size. These are a injection moulded plastic item. Simply drill a small hole superglue in place or if fitting to plastic card use solvent glue. Hope this helps. Click on rivet icon to view. Please p/m if you need any more info

Stan.

Stan · « **Reply #9 on:** December 10, 2015, 03:14:39 pm »

More info on the rivets used on my 1/35 scale Elco plastic conversion. The supplier is S B Models Barrow In Furness. I have other products from this supplier on my minesweeper build also.

Stan

Arrow5 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 10, 2015, 03:41:54 pm »

Interesting, do they have a website ?

Stan · « **Reply #11 on:** December 10, 2015, 03:56:34 pm »

Hi Arrow 5 try this.
sbmodels.uk.net second one down when you open this page hope this helps.

Stan.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #12 on:** December 10, 2015, 09:13:07 pm »

I bought a big bag of different bolts, rivets and the like from Historex agents 21 years ago that were Grandtline and they are pretty good.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 10, 2015, 10:10:32 pm »

Thanks Stan, i`ve worked out that my white glue rivets are plate size...soup plate

The painstakingly applied glass beads on another model were/are wrong as the features they were used on were welded construction

. Google images have tons of false rivet pictures, lots of ideas too.

rob · « **Reply #14 on:** December 11, 2015, 12:05:07 am »

Try Cambrian models, I've just ordered 2300 of their rivet heads and a couple of hundred assorted nuts/bolt heads.
Cheapest I've found for 1.5 mm heads, far easier than drilling lots of .7 mm holes for full rivets , nice to deal with as well.

Stan · « **Reply #15 on:** December 11, 2015, 09:36:17 am »

Thanks Rob for that info. Its always good to have a few irons in the fire. I have used Grandt Line for many years and I don't mind drilling to fit the parts.

Stan.

MickT70 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 11, 2015, 05:59:41 pm »

Thanks for all the replies you guys, there is certainly plenty of ideas for me to experiment with. Will also have a chat with club members at Deans Marine open day tomorrow.

Thanks again

Pat Matthews · « **Reply #17 on:** December 20, 2015, 03:37:10 pm »

I used Starwood's rivet kit... really just a set of hypodermics and some PVA glue. The syringe lets you move quickly, you develop a rhythm...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=793368

You should apply the glue dots to primed surfaces, and then prime over them again to lock them in place... it's easy to knock the glue dots off if only the color coat is holding them on.

And depending on scale, sometimes just a mark is all that's needed to trick the eye into seeing rivets... sometimes a prick from an awl is plenty. No need to over-do the head height, many rivets just about disappear over time... whether they were countersunk to begin with, or the heads rusted away, or there are so many layers of paint, I can't tell.... see the second pic...

jaymac · « **Reply #18 on:** December 20, 2015, 04:43:23 pm »

tried to access your link http://www.starwoodmodels.com/products/ssm/rivetkit.php in the other forum to starwood models it no workee for me ?

Netleyned · « **Reply #19 on:** December 20, 2015, 04:53:57 pm »

Same Problem.

Ned

Pat Matthews · « **Reply #20 on:** December 20, 2015, 05:34:13 pm »

Sorry, here's a fresh link to Starwood:
http://www.starwoodscalemodels.com/estore/index.php?cPath=22_15

Netleyned · « **Reply #21 on:** December 20, 2015, 05:41:30 pm »

Ooh Whee some nice prices on that site.

Ned

Pat Matthews · « **Reply #22 on:** December 20, 2015, 06:02:53 pm »

Glad you like them!

But if you can find a disposable syringe with "blunt tip Luer lock" needles locally, you can use your own PVA glue and save a bundle.

Big Ada · « **Reply #23 on:** December 21, 2015, 05:46:00 pm »

Have you tried using a Sprung loaded Centre Punch on the Reverse of Styrene, you can adjust the strength to suit and you can get a reasonable impression of Rivets.

Len.

17-09 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 12, 2016, 10:37:26 am »

And you call me a rivet counter Len! !

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Author Topic: Fake rivets (Read 12148 times)