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[Henry70x]

I am looking to construct a model of the Fairey Huntsman in 1/11 scale (36" Version), are there any plans on the market to purchase, or can increase the plan of 24" version by 25%

[canabus]

Hi Henry70X
I have had plans rescanned and saved on a USB drive a number of times(Sea Hornet 25% and Sea Rover 20% bigger).
Resizing is no problem, but, you may have to change the stringers and corner stringers to you available size.
As for frames 3 to 4 mm marine plywood and 1.5 mm for the skins.
For a motor 3639-750 or 1100kv, 670-100Amp ESC, prop 2 blade 40-50mm or 3 blade 37mm(HOBBYKING).
Battery Zippy Compact 3S 5800mah 60C.

[inertia]

Henry
There are no plans available for the H31 at 1/11 scale (34") but the MyHobbyStore X-List plans service has a 1/12 scale (31") plan MM1061 by 'Model Boats Staff' (aka Alec Gee and Vic Smeed).
If you increase the recent 1/16 scale Model Boats magazine plan by 25% you'll get a model which is around 30" long, or 5/64 scale! At that size I wouldn't increase any of the wood sizes or types, except maybe add an extra 2mm thickness to the keel and fit an 8mm dia prop tube. At 1/12 - which is almost identical in size to 5/64 - you could afford to use liteply instead of marine ply, which was necessary because of the engine used in Vic's model (a single-cylinder ED Viking diesel). Well, that plus the fact that liteply hadn't been invented at the time!
If you go up to 36" then marine ply does have more attractions, certainly for the frames and keel parts.
Harry's choice of motor seems too powerful to me, certainly for models of around 30" long. My second model 1/16 H31 (with the tan seats and swimming ladder) has a Leopard 2826/17T 1050kv motor on 3S LiPo and there's a pronounced torque 'roll' even at 3/4 throttle. I've also had to restrict the throttle to 80% as the model at 100% speed scares the hell out of me! Next experiment is to try a 2S LiPo and then maybe a 750kv motor on 3S.
It's all good fun!
Dave M

[canabus]

Hi
The 3639-750kv on 3S is good basic motor for 30-40 inch boats a lot of the club members use it in the Sea Commander and Swordsman also in the Spearfish, but, the later will handle a 3639-1100kv on 4S very well.
Some of us off set the drive line a few degrees to handle the more powerful motors as the fast electric boys do!!
Rule of thumb the prop shaft sit right of the rudder looking from the stern.
I did this on my Sea Hornet with a 28mm 1900kv motor(3s battery) and good up to about 35mph.
The last bit of throttle she torques over to one side.

[Henry70x]

Many thanks to Canabus and Inertia for your information, it has given me plenty to think out.

[Henry70x]

I am building the Huntsman 31 from plan, and the question I have is the bow area flared as the version in January & February issue of Model boat magazine iOS it just rounded from bulk head 1 to to keel. Input and thoughts please

[triumphjon]

have you looked at the availbility of plans through the fairey owners club ? when i was building my fairey spear the owners club have been most helpful . even after a few years the model isnt fully finished , i made a poor choice in stern tube supply which had resulted in the top bearings failing very quickly , however ive just purchased a pair of m5 ballraced shafts from pmb models , which were installed last weekend , along with a pair of turnigy 1000 kv motors , with any luck it will give a reasonable turn of speed

[inertia]

I am building the Huntsman 31 from plan, and the question I have is the bow area flared as the version in January & February issue of Model boat magazine iOS it just rounded from bulk head 1 to to keel. Input and thoughts please

Do you have the article? The pictures show the shape very well. I'm afraid I'm not sure what your question means.
Dave M

[Henry70x]

The question is the flare at the bow there no matter what size or scale the Huntsman is.

[inertia]

Henry
A scale model should be the same shape and section as the full size, irrespective of the scale. The picture is of one of the models built for the article i.e. @ 1/16 scale. There are many pictures of full-size Huntsman 31's here https://picasaweb.google.com/116493500049865636778
I'm really not sure what your problem is but I'll try to explain. If you look at the revised picture you see there are several lines drawn. If you were to cut through the hull at the position of those lines, to give sections, then lines AB, DE, GH and KL would all be straight lines. EF would be a curved line and HJ would be the same as the edge of the front former (also curved). The concave flare begins just ahead of former 2 (BC), gets to its sharpest at former 1 (HJ) and becomes straight again at the stem (KL).
Dave M

[Henry70x]

Thanks very much for that, I was have a thick moment , at my age it might be called something else. Once again thanks

[inertia]

Thanks very much for that, I was have a thick moment , at my age it might be called something else. Once again thanks

Don't worry, Henry - I'm not far behind you, m'duck! I think at that age it's simply called "to be expected".
DM

[triumphjon]

thanks for the explanation inertia , thankfully my own hulls are all the grp ones , i simply build onto the bare hull

[inertia]

thanks for the explanation inertia , thankfully my own hulls are all the grp ones , i simply biuld onto the bare hull

John
To each his own - and you're most welcome.
I have to say that the kick I get from producing something like that from just flat sheet and block wood is one of modelling's greatest pleasures. Cleaning up the wood shavings and dust isn't.
Wooden hulls have a 'soul' to them that GRP could never emulate.....
Silly old s*d, aren't I? 
DM

[triumphjon]

wouldnt say that dave , although im using the grp hulls everything else is constructed from wood so i get my share of dust and shavings , i also prefer to make the cabin a permenant fixture to the hull with just the cabin roof sections removable ! like both vessels in my avatar , however the next two are being biult of liteply in a bid to save weight