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[Alisdair]

Hi I am building a model of the Cape Don.  I have finished the hull and have started to fit the model out but didn't  include the bilge keel.   Would it make much of a difference ?
I attached pic of original

[roycv]

Hi Alisdair, what size is your model, displacement?
regards Roy

[BFSMP]

I love the photograph. Beautifully nostalgic.

Do you know where it was taken and when.

Also do you know what the name of the Blue Funnel Line ship is, tied up on the other side of the pier.

I had a friend who served with them many years ago,

Jim.

[Seaspray]

I too missed fitting the bilge keel as the model didn't look right and it was a long narrow hull I stripped it all back and fitted the bilge keel looks better

[John W E]

to follow on from my mate, Seaspray, the importance of the bilge keels on a model is basically for cosmetic reasons.   This is because they are that small, I do not think they would have the true effect to dampen the roll of the ship.   

If it was me, I would put them on, because it doesn't really look authentic enough, especially if it's a cargo ship/warship.   They are easy enough to make and fit, and, there are several ways of achieving this.

I have included a couple of photographs of how I fitted plasticard bilge keels to a model I made - where I used brass pins to locate the bilge keels to the hull and Araldited the brass pins on the inside of the hull.

Just going back to the photograph you have put on here - what springs to mind - is - when they put a ship in dry dock, especially of that tonnage, they normally put side supports alongside of the ship as well as wooden blocks supporting the hull bottom.   It is strange to see the vessel beached and high and dry out of the water like that.   I must be honest I have never seen many vessels like that unless they are ready to be scrapped.

John

[Jerry C]

The only place I can think of where Blueys dried out was Broome, WA. If so ship is probably Stentor or Rhexenor.
Jerry.

[Alisdair]

Hi Roy
Model is around 1120mm long   200mm wide. Displacement around  7 kg I think


Cheers
Alisdair

[roycv]

Hi Alidair I think at that size you can dispense with bilge keels the model should be stable enough. 
With a 'sedate' type of model you can get her to plough on through the water by making sure that the ballast is in the bow and stern. Think of a dumb bell weight trainer.  If the ballast is in the centre of the boat then the bow and stern can be easily lifted by small waves.  Putting the weight at the ends makes it a bit more difficult.  It will mean a slight reduction in turning ability but not that much.

Should you decide to fit bilge keels note the curve they have fore and aft.  Think of the wave pattern when she is moving, side on. You can see that the bilge keels follow the wave pattern, if they are straight they will cause a resistance and the water flow will spoil and they will not do their job anyway.
Look forward to seeing some more pictures as work progresses.
regards Roy

[John W E]

hi roycv

Cant quite grasp your fore and aft definition of a bilge keel - because the bilges keels should naturally follow the direction of the hull fore and aft in both directions.

Like a friend of mine says - its up to you - suit yourself - but I have already said what you have said in an earlier post - I wonder now if my postings are invisible to people

[roycv]

Hi Bluebird I do not think we are apart on this, I agree that the bilge keels follow the line of the hull but if they do not follow the line of the natural flow of the water when travelling, then the keel, a bit like an aircraft wing will stall create an eddy and not function.

I have inherited a Zwartz Zee already mostly made where the builder did not appreciate this and the keel is straight, but  follows the line of the hull but not the water going by and just creates eddies in the water.
How could anyone like yourself be invisible to us?  I usually read your posts and I am sure benefit from the experience.

best regards Roy

[BFSMP]

The only place I can think of where Blueys dried out was Broome, WA. If so ship is probably Stentor or Rhexenor.
Jerry.

Thanks Jerry, much appreciated.

Jim.

[carlmt]

Point to note - bilge keels to NOT protrude downwards beyond the bottom plating.
 
If they did, and the ship was in a 'high and dry' situation, then they would be the first point of contact and would 1) get damaged and 2) damage the shell plating.  The ship should be able to rest on the underside of its hull without the bilge keels touching ground.

[Liverbudgie2]

Just going back to the photograph you have put on here - what springs to mind - is - when they put a ship in dry dock, especially of that tonnage, they normally put side supports alongside of the ship as well as wooden blocks supporting the hull bottom.   It is strange to see the vessel beached and high and dry out of the water like that.   I must be honest I have never seen many vessels like that unless they are ready to be scrapped.

John

The location is one of the smaller ports on the Australian west coast, perhaps Broome. The Blue Flu is the Charon. It is a common occurrence for vessels to "take the ground" in ports that have a large tidal range or there is just a jetty; indeed, it happens almost every day on the Mersey when a vessel berths on Bromborough wall.

LB

[MikeK]

[MikeK]

Somehow couldn't find room to write in !
A quick google and this is first I found. I would have thought if you are building a scale model you follow the lines of the original. Never heard of wavy bilge keels on all the ships I was on


Mike

[Seaspray]

Here Here and it'll look right with em fitted

[MikeK]

Alisdair's picture also clearly shows the bilge keel follows the curve of the 'bilge', hence the name I suppose !


Mike

[Alisdair]

Hi Thanks for the advice,
I won't fit the bilge keels for now and wait and see how she goes on the water.   
I will post a couple pics of my model shortly


Cheers
Alisdair