Topic: 1/24 Scale Clyde Class Lifeboat (Read 31853 times)

Tiny69 · « **Reply #50 on:** June 23, 2017, 06:54:21 pm »

The hull is now at the stage were a coat of under coat was required to show up any imperfections still to remove. A couple of coats Halfords build up paint were sprayed on and left to reveal lots of minor scratches that would need working on. To remedy this the hull was sanded with fine grain wet and dry paper soaked in water to form a paste that fills in the scratches to leave a smooth finish.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #51 on:** July 01, 2017, 09:29:21 am »

The next step was to fit the two MFA950D motors with 6:1 reduction gearboxes into the hull. Both were mounted on plywood bases using servo mounting screws and then the bases were glued to a piece of 6mm thick balsa that had been shaped to fit the profile of the inside of the hull. Each motor is fitted with an inline fuse and an RFI kit soldered across the terminals and to the motor casing to reduce any interference created. The motors shafts are connected to the prop shafts using double universal joints.
Now the deck could be fitted which was cut from a sheet of 1mm thick plywood allowing about 5mm all round to sand it back to the edge of the hull. The plywood was glued down and clamped, taped around the edges and heavy batteries placed on top to hold it in place whilst the glue wood set.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #52 on:** July 09, 2017, 09:03:07 am »

Firstly the paint was removed along the hull chine and using some 3.2mm half round plastic strip the rubbing strake was glued in place along the full length of the hull except for a small section near the bow. Around the top edge of the hull the paint was also removed so the top rubbing strake channel could be added. This was made using 6.3mm x 2mm C-section plastic strip which easily bent around the bow of the hull in one piece. Further pieces were added down each side. The hardest section was to get the neat angle were the two meet at the stern. One side was fitted first with a slight overlap and then trimmed back to the centre line of the hull. Then I carefully measured the other side and cut it slightly longer, cut the mating angle to fit, then cut off the excess at the other end before gluing in place.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #53 on:** July 17, 2017, 11:20:39 am »

With the top rubbing strake fitted I decided to fit a plastic deck on top of the plywood deck already installed. By placing sheets on top of the hull and using a soft pencil the outline was marked onto the 0.8mm thick plastic sheets. Leaving about 3mm excess all around the deck shape was cut out and the back roughed with some sand paper to ensure a good adhesion. With the plastic deck glued in place the excess around the edge was sanded back in line with the rubbing strake.

To make the bilge keels two strips of 6.3mm x 1mm plastic strip were cut to length and on the back five slots cut 0.5mm deep at 80mm centres to insert stainless steel pins into. Then ten 15mm long pin were cut from a length of stainless steel rod and one glued into each slot. The hull was marked with the locations of the bilge keels, holes were drilled for the pins to slot into after a bit of fiddling about and adjustment the keels were glued in place. To ensure a neat finish some filler paste was applied along the edge were they meet the hull and sanded back.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #54 on:** July 23, 2017, 07:23:29 am »

The next challenge on the hull was to drill the hole for the anchor hawse pipe at the front of the bow. The position of the hole was marked on the deck and were it exits on the bow and using a 6mm drill a pilot hole was carefully drilled first through the deck at an approximate angle towards the bow. Then a second pilot hole from the bow towards the deck was drilled in the same manner. With the two holes meeting up in the middle the hole was then opened out with an 8mm drill followed by a 9mm drill to create a tunnel from the deck to the bow through the solid balsa sections of the bow. After bit of filing with a large round file to ensure the tunnel was on the centre line of the hull it was big enough to slide a 9mm OD brass tube down. The tube was cut slightly oversize and glued in place. Some filler was applied and sanded back on both the deck and bow to finish off the edges of the pipe.

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #55 on:** July 23, 2017, 11:54:37 am »

Tiny,
It's looking good and you seem to be proceeding well. The 'step by step' should be a help to quite a few folk, it's surprising how often we see what someone else is using as a 'process' and then think 'I'll use that!'.
I think your Clyde could be on the water before my Shannon, but this week want to get a few more bits done ready for my LBES static display at the Alfold Charity Model [with boats] Show next weekend.
Keep it coming.
C.C.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #56 on:** July 23, 2017, 01:31:32 pm »

CC,

I estimate about another two to two and a half years to complete this model based on how long it has taken to build the hull up to now. What's your estimate to finish you project?

Tiny

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #57 on:** July 23, 2017, 03:15:11 pm »

Tiny,
I can hear the rybauld laughter from here from all my 'friends' -" finish his Project? He's not got one finished, on the water or in blue and orange yet and there are seven under construction!". Seriously, I'm not sure that 'Big G' will give me enough time, but I'm having fun and enjoying myself. The straight answer to your question though is September for 'on the water' and running in a forward direction. Maybe a year to get the external detail finished and painted. Doing this 'thread' helps to keep it on the move, but look how much has been 'achieved' in the past few weeks - a very slow move forward, but it needs to be accurate and in proportion [if not].
Cheers,
Kim

PS - I can still hear the laughter echoing around the UK, across Europe and even 'down under'.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #58 on:** July 30, 2017, 08:09:32 am »

To form the bulwarks around the bow at the inclined angle required a template was made from cereal box cardboard. A strip was cut and taped in place round the edge of the deck at the required angle and marked with a soft pencil. This gave the bottom cutting line of the bulwark. The cardboard was cut out and placed on the deck to check it fitted correctly. A small amount of trimming here and there and the template was then placed onto a sheet of 0.8mm thick plastic sheet and drawn around to give the required shape. The plastic was cut and shaped to the lines drawn and test fitted on the bow. Along the bottom edge a slight angle was sanded to give a better joint with the deck. Once happy with the fit the section was glued in place using Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement as it easily runs along the joint. This was left to set overnight.

With the bow section set the anchor recesses could be made. First a cardboard template was made to get the angles correct and then transferred to a sheet of plastic and cut out. The end of the bow bulwark was trimmed to the correct angle and the first section of the recess glued in place. Then the first section on the other side was worked on and glued in place to allow the other side to set before adding anymore sections. This process was repeated for the second and third sections to complete the anchor recesses.

Down each side of the bulwarks are nine wash ports so the positions of these were marked onto the deck as taken from the plan. To make it easier to construct the side bulwarks I decided to divide them into three sections each containing three wash ports. More cardboard was used to get the correct curve of the deck and transferred on to the plastic sheet. This was then cut out and shaped to fit on to the deck at the correct angle. Once happy with the fit the wash port locations were marked out on the plastic and then filed to shape with a round file for the corners and finished with a flat file along the top edge. The bulwark section was then glued in place and left to set whilst working on the other side of the hull. At this moment the bulwarks are not cut to the correct height but have been marked and the excess will be removed later.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #59 on:** August 05, 2017, 08:40:08 am »

Using the same techniques as described using card templates to get the correct curve of the deck and incline of the bulwark the last section around the stern were made and fitted to the hull. These sections were then marked with the height of the bulwark to match the rest. Using a shape knife the excess plastic and scoring the plastic above the mark line the excess plastic was easily removed and then with a small sanding block the remaining was removed down to the line. To check the height all round a simple gauge was made from plastic sheet that could be run around the edge of the deck to indicate where there were any high points. A little sanding in a few places was needed to ensure the top of the bulwarks were parallel with the deck.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #60 on:** August 13, 2017, 12:09:54 pm »

With the bulwarks now fitted the next stage was to fit the numerous stanchions on the inside. Using various reference photos the position of each was marked out on the deck. To obtain the angle of each stanchion relative to the deck a simple adjustable tool was made from plastic sheet which was placed against the upright bulwark. The tool was then transferred to a jig, also made from plastic sheet and the angle marked onto a strip of plastic. The angle was then cut and the back edge marked with a set square and also cut. The stanchion was then glued in place with liquid cement. The whole procedure was then repeated for the next one and so on.

Charlie · « **Reply #61 on:** August 13, 2017, 04:21:25 pm »

Very neat work there Tiny, I like it. Like the Jig as well, good idea. By the way, what adhesive did you use to attach the Styrene deck to the Plywood?

Charlie

Tiny69 · « **Reply #62 on:** August 14, 2017, 07:28:04 pm »

Charlie,

I used a medium viscosity cyano glue.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #63 on:** December 30, 2017, 10:45:13 am »

With all the bulwark stanchions in place on both sides the top rail was added using strips of 3.2mm wide x 1mm thick plastic starting with the two anchor wells and working towards the rear. Around the bow the strip wouldn't bend to such an acute curve so this section was cut from 1mm thick sheet to the required shape.

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #64 on:** December 30, 2017, 11:59:37 am »

Tiny,
This is a wonderful build and a joy to watch. Your jig at #60 is very helpful to show how to attain a neat and accurate finish. I [and many others] will enjoy the ongoing build throughout 2018.
Have a fulfilling and enjoyable New Year.
Kim [C.C.]

Tiny69 · « **Reply #65 on:** January 07, 2018, 05:11:19 pm »

With the bulwark top rail glued in place it was initially sanded back with some medium grit wet and dry paper. Next two equal parts of milliput epoxy resin putty were mixed together and applied along the joint and smoothed out using some water to form a thick paste and allowed to set overnight. Using three grades of wet and dry paper from rough through to fine, the hardened milliput was sanded to form a smooth joint along the top rail.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #66 on:** January 15, 2018, 07:23:34 pm »

Just a bit of an update showing the installation of one of the bulwark hawser that I desgined, modelled and had 3D printed from Shapeways.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #67 on:** January 21, 2018, 05:23:08 pm »

The next step in the construction of the model was to fit the deck coaming around the opening. Using 6.4mm x 6.4mm, that’s ¼ inch in old money, Evergreen plastic angle which I glued with cyano to the underside of the plywood deck giving a 4mm lip all round.

spongie · « **Reply #68 on:** January 22, 2018, 12:11:44 pm »

I don't want to rush you but this is going to be a fantastic model when it's finished and I can't wait to see it.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #69 on:** January 22, 2018, 02:00:15 pm »

I won't rush it, perhaps another two to three years to complete.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #70 on:** January 31, 2018, 04:16:43 pm »

It is now time to start work on the main superstructure so it was back to the PC to setup and print out the basic shapes of the two sides and rear. The print out were then roughly cut out and glued to some cereal box cardboard using some Evostick contact adhesive to ensure the paper did not expand or shrink. Once applied to the cardboard the side pieces and front deck were cut out and using 3M tape stuck together to check the line along the deck and coaming. These cardboard shapes are to be the templates I will use to make the actual sides using plasticard.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #71 on:** February 11, 2018, 06:04:59 pm »

With the basic card templates complete the next stage was to start using them to mark out on to 1mm thick plastic sheet and cut them out. The rear sides were cut first and then the windows were cut out, three on each side, only to check the drawings and find the port side had only two. The mistaken third window was filled using some plasticard and the gaps filled with some car body filler and once set sanded back. The rear panel was cut out and then the two windows cut out also.

Tiny69 · « **Reply #72 on:** March 03, 2018, 10:01:16 am »

With the two sides and rear cut out the next step was to cut out the roof section from the plan. Now the pieces could be glued together with poly cement and strips of plastic positioned at the joints to strengthen them. With the rear of the superstructure complete the front section could be started using the card templates previously made. These were placed on the plastic sheet and taped in position and cut out. Then the windows and door openings were roughly cut out and filed to shape. The front top deck and front bulkhead were made from the card templates and then cemented together with 4mm square plastic sections in the corners to support the joints.

RST · « **Reply #73 on:** March 03, 2018, 10:21:58 am »

Quote

Now the pieces could be glued together with poly cement and strips of plastic positioned at the joints to strengthen them.

You sure you're using poly cement? It goes pretty brittle with age over the years -old skool airfix kit stuff. Much better to use MEK or Butanone etc. especially with all that very neat effort so far. I still use the likes of Revell Contacta for small parts or filling gaps but I learned poly cement tubes are just a no-no these days.

Looks fantastic though. An inspiration so far!

Rich

Tiny69 · « **Reply #74 on:** March 03, 2018, 01:06:18 pm »

I use Tamiya liquid cement.

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Author Topic: 1/24 Scale Clyde Class Lifeboat (Read 31853 times)

RST