Topic: 71" (1.8m) TID Tug Build (Read 60804 times)

tizdaz · « **Reply #100 on:** December 29, 2017, 03:03:30 am »

Time to update with more pics ^^

Removed the temp crossbeam section and fixed the motor in place with P40

Added deck support around the edges & fixed the base board with P40 & filled gaps around edges with Easy 1 Filler

First Part of deck (Stern) cut out ready to fit, this won't be fitted for ease of access until I have all the rudder section/servo complete, there will also be a hole cut out of this for access to servo/linkage

Portholes almost complete, these were made using different size brass circles then fixed some minature nuts around the edges, I just need to add latches which I will add using small pieces of copper wire

A few more!

Checking alignment of motor

Gave the prop a good polish with Autosol Metal Polish, pics don't really do it justice but it come up damn nice I have to say!

Checking the alignment again with a shaft support temp fitted

Fixed the rudder support post using 2 methods, the first I used JB Marine Weld, once set I then used Epoxy Putty over the top to give it some shape. I also used the end of an 8mm prop tube placed it on the end of the keel, this was fixed using the same method, in the pic you can just about make out the hole for the rudder shaft

The other end of keel I added another small strip of the brass bar then fixed it to the keel using JB Weld, I then filed it to the shape of the prop shaft, however I left a small gap to put some JB weld in for a good bond

Checking it seats well

Checking clearance for the prop before I fix the shaft in place

I propped up (excuse the punc!) the prop shaft using bits of timber to get the correct alignment

I put sides around the shaft support then used a little Gorilla 2-Part Epoxy to hold the shaft in place, but I added less hardener than the resin (I put my finger over the hardener hole so less came out) for more time to make adjustments to the alignment before it set this area will then be filled with P40 when the Gorilla epoxy is fully set, you can just about see the epoxy as it's clear

Checking alignment of the prop

Next is to add the P40 around the shaft support & then make a start on fabricating the Keel :)

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #101 on:** December 29, 2017, 03:39:46 am »

Brass propeller porn....

derekwarner · « **Reply #102 on:** December 29, 2017, 04:17:02 am »

Hey Daz.....those Portlights look superb

Just a recommendation.......during the installation of each, make sure the 5th bolt is in the 12:00 position...[against the horizontal]

This is how Portlights were installed when manufactured with an uneven number of retaining bolts

Derek

tizdaz · « **Reply #103 on:** December 29, 2017, 05:10:45 am »

Quote from: derekwarner_decoy on December 29, 2017, 04:17:02 am

Hey Daz.....those Portlights look superb

Just a recommendation.......during the installation of each, make sure the 5th bolt is in the 12:00 position...[against the horizontal]

This is how Portlights were installed when manufactured with an uneven number of retaining bolts

Derek

Thanks Derek :)

the gap at the bottom is where i'm going to be putting a latch type handle :)

Mark T · « **Reply #104 on:** December 29, 2017, 10:09:06 am »

Wow thats a nice piece of engineering going on there mate

tizdaz · « **Reply #105 on:** December 29, 2017, 01:14:38 pm »

Quote from: Mark T on December 29, 2017, 10:09:06 am

Wow thats a nice piece of engineering going on there mate

Thanks Mark

tizdaz · « **Reply #106 on:** January 07, 2018, 12:31:46 am »

Well, my 1st update of 2018!

Cut the sides of the deck out, ready to be fitted, but as mentioned earlier, the deck wont be perma fitted until all electrics/rudder are in place etc.

Shaft bracket held firmly in place using P40 & then once that had set, I used epoxy over the top to give it a clear/solid finish.

Close up of the shaft bracket held in place

Made a start on the keel/skeg sections, Those of you with a keen eye for scale will notice that the lower keel is slightly different to that of the real TID, On the TID the lower Skeg only covers half of the Keel, I would have liked to do it the same way, But I wasn't sure as the 2 parts of the Skeg (upper & lower) is what will be supporting the prop shaft, so in the end I decided to go with strength over looks so to speak! & I do a full lower skeg as this will support the prop shaft all the way along so will make the support much more firm. This will be the only part that won't be true to the original TID! Although I did do some googling & it seems the TID's skeg varied somewhat from TID to TID, so here's my version!

Checking fitment, bottom one fits perfectly, but the top piece I decided to redo as it was a little too short

Fixed the Bottom pice of the skg to the Keel using 3 screws going through the bottom of the keel into the skeg, I countersunk the holes so the screw heads sit flush with the keel. I then used some JB Marine Weld (this is VERY good stuff for bonding metal) in between the keel & the skeg to seal the gap as well as to fit it in place. You will also notice that around the rudder area I shaped it off, this was done using some epoxy putty then once set I went over it with JB Marine Weld & then filed/sanded to get the shape I wanted. I also used a round file for the top of the skeg so the prop shaft sits inside it snug.

Different angle..

Testing the fitting, all good (except for the top piece of skeg which as I mentioned, was a little too short

New top section of skeg done & fits like a charm! As with the lower piece, I filed the underside so the Prop Shaft sits inside it snug, this will also help with the bonding using JB Marine Weld when I come to perma fix it in place. The top of the skeg will also be screwed into place through the hull & with some JB Marine Weld in bewtween to help with the sealing/bond.

Checking alignment from the rear, all looking good!

Another shot from a slight angle

Made a start on the rudder tube, in this pic is 2 parts of a Prop Shaft which I'm using for the rudder shaft. I cut the bottom end of a Prop Shaft off to my desired length, this also had the Bushing, so then I had to cut the bushing from off the top end of the Prop Shaft & then bond the 2 together, which is what you see below. the grey stuff you see is where the join is using JB Marine Weld, this will be filed/sanded down. The actual shaft you can also see in the pic which is held in place to make sure the alignment stayed 100% straight while bonding the 2 pieces together

That's it for now, I've also made a start on my electrics board, but hit a few bumps so no pics as yet as!

ballastanksian · « **Reply #107 on:** January 07, 2018, 08:11:08 pm »

I have just found this build and I like the skeg and rudder workings very much

tizdaz · « **Reply #108 on:** January 07, 2018, 10:41:42 pm »

Thanks ballastanksian :)

nemesis · « **Reply #109 on:** January 08, 2018, 12:01:10 pm »

Good Prop advert for Simon,s product, beautiful piece of casting. nemesis

tizdaz · « **Reply #110 on:** January 08, 2018, 05:16:26 pm »

Quote from: nemesis on January 08, 2018, 12:01:10 pm

Good Prop advert for Simon,s product, beautiful piece of casting. nemesis

indeed, lovely piece of engineering, especially when I gave it a good polish, had to put my shades on ^^

tizdaz · « **Reply #111 on:** January 08, 2018, 05:21:21 pm »

Well, I've almost done my rudder! I silver soldered it, 2mm Brass plate that I cut out to the shape of the rudder (this is what took the longest in making the rudder, cutting through 2mm Brass sheet aint as easy as it sounds..even for a dremel with a diamond blade!!) onto a 4mm stainless steel shaft, I also added some JB Marine Weld to finish it off, seems nice and solid & tested the fitment/alignement & all looks good (touch wood!!) Just going to add some detail to it once the Marine Weld has set & then I will post some pics. I was going to plank it but decided to keep it plain & add some detail instead :)

tizdaz · « **Reply #112 on:** January 13, 2018, 03:33:35 am »

Time for an update, Finally finished the rudder..

First I cut out the rough shape of the rudder from a 2mm Brass sheet

I then filed & sanded to give the final shape

This was the (not so fun) part! ..Silver soldering the Rudder shaft to the rudder it's self. I did this using a Butane blow torch which I picked up off ebay, I used 2 house bricks for a base, I then lay another brass piece I had on top of the house bricks (to help with reflecting the heat) I then keyed the area to be soldered using some sand paper & put some flux on the contact sides & then lay the rudder & rudder shaft in position using 20pence pieces as shims as these were just the right thickness so the rudder was centre to the shaft, I also used a couple of die pieces to keep the shaft firmly along side the rudder. It took about 5mins for the flux to run which indicated the correct temperature to add the silver solder.

All sanded down, solid as a rock! ..tested the alignment & all good!

I then used some JB Marine Weld along the joint, this ensured that if there was any area missed with the soldering this would fill the join as well as add extra strength.

Once the JB weld set, I then sanded for a smooth finish

Next I cut out 3 strips of 1mm brass & wrapped it around the shaft & onto the rudder, these were fixed in place using JB Marine Weld & then I used 3 small pieces of wood along with clamps to hold in place while it set. This will again add extra strength to the rudder as well make it look more like a rudder!

All set & solid!

Time for more sanding..

Next I added some rivets (well, kind of!) I cut off the head of some button head bolts, filed them smooth & then using JB Marine Weld I placed them onto the strips & then filled the head with the weld.

Once all set I sanded down to a smooth finish

One more final sanding..Mission Complete!

Im pretty happy with the final outcome, once sprayed I think it will look pretty decent, not bad for my 1st attempt :)

Next will be to perma fix the skeg/propshaft etc in place & connect rudder to the servo :)

tizdaz · « **Reply #113 on:** January 13, 2018, 03:56:25 am »

Also I may be having a rethink on my electrics, after doing the first test of running the prop, I connected it up using 1x 12volt battery as I just wanted to run it in with the grease etc. However even with 12volt it seems there is plenty of rpm & power, the motor is rated 12-24volt, I kept the RPM high & the motor stayed stone cold as did the ESC. So now I'm thinking instead of having 24volt as I was going to use Series/Parallel setup to give double the Voltage & double the Ah (Total would have been 24 volt & 44Ah) ..I may just run the batterys in Parallel, this will give 12volt but will have a total of 110Ah with 5 batterys as each battery is rated 22Ah.

I'm hoping to do my 1st water test next week, so I will decide then as I will be running on 12volt so then I will know if she has enough juice using just 12volt, if so then it will make things so much simpler in terms of electrics! Time will tell..

In the meantime here is my very first vid! ..testing prop on 12 volt running-in the shaft with the grease, in this vid shes running at about half throttle, remember the skeg is NOT yet perma fixed in place, its just propped up with a few bits of timber! but she still runs smooth as silk :)

http://www.tizdaz.co.uk/boat/vids/PropShaft.mp4

What I have noticed is in this next vid, the prop seems to be off balance, you can notice a wobble effect on the blades, but the spindle is dead straight, what you guys think? It's only noticable on low rpm, as soon the rpm picks up you cant notice it, but i'm pretty sure there should be no wobble effect at any rpm?

http://www.tizdaz.co.uk/boat/vids/propshaft2.mp4

JimG · « **Reply #114 on:** January 13, 2018, 08:31:40 am »

If you have to do any more silver soldering don't use housebricks as a support. They are always slightly damp (unless you have had them in a hot oven for several days) and the heat from the soldering can cause this moisture to flash into steam. This can cause the surface of the brick to break up, in extreme cases with some force throwing pieces of brick around.
I use the firebricks from inside an old storage heater, these are designed to be at a high temperature and are undamaged by the burner flame.

Jim

Stavros · « **Reply #115 on:** January 13, 2018, 08:57:42 am »

Nothing at all wrong with that prop

Dave

SailorGreg · « **Reply #116 on:** January 13, 2018, 09:28:59 am »

Quote from: JimG on January 13, 2018, 08:31:40 am

If you have to do any more silver soldering don't use housebricks as a support. They are always slightly damp (unless you have had them in a hot oven for several days) and the heat from the soldering can cause this moisture to flash into steam. This can cause the surface of the brick to break up, in extreme cases with some force throwing pieces of brick around.
I use the firebricks from inside an old storage heater, these are designed to be at a high temperature and are undamaged by the burner flame.

Jim

And don't use a brass sheet to "reflect the heat". It's much more likely to act as a heat sink and take the heat from your soldering so it takes longer and runs the risk of getting a poor joint. If you plan to do much more silver soldering it's probably worth spending a few quid on a vermiculite sheet such as offered here.

Great build. Pretty ambitious, but loads of fun I guess!

Greg

Mark T · « **Reply #117 on:** January 13, 2018, 09:37:41 am »

You've made a really nice job of that rudder and from the video the prop looks fine to me

tizdaz · « **Reply #118 on:** January 13, 2018, 03:32:46 pm »

Hi guys,

cheers for the pointers, will take the silver soldering tips onboard but I don't think i will need to do anymore silver soldering on this build, it was purely for the rudder

Yup, I agree about me being ambitious! ..lets face it, if none of us were ambitious we would all be in the dark ages still! ..The rudder & prop etc were the parts I was not 100% looking forward to doing as I knew it would be a lot of work, but touch wood, so far i'm happy with my work, still got a fair bit of way to go, but once I've got the electrics & drive system all sorted, I can then relax a little & start adding all the detail to deck/superstructure etc :)

Good to know my prop is all good, just wasn't sure as this is my first build :)

cheers guys :)

Tombsy · « **Reply #119 on:** January 13, 2018, 07:12:35 pm »

I have to balance the props on my fast boats, does anyone do it with tug props at lower rpm?

nemesis · « **Reply #120 on:** January 15, 2018, 09:07:51 am »

Yes, just think of a 5" dia bronze prop being out of balance and what it would do to the tail end shaft bearing, nemesis

tizdaz · « **Reply #121 on:** January 28, 2018, 10:37:56 pm »

I just spent about 30-40min typing out an update to hit post & then all the code got screwed up again!! :(

tizdaz · « **Reply #122 on:** January 28, 2018, 10:45:08 pm »

Prop shaft & rudder all done, will grab some video soon of it in the water, but i did a dry test with the prop running & its very smooth with no vibrations which is good as it means of course that the alignment is good etc.

Also stained/varnished the wheelhouse & made a start on the wheel, also cut out the rest of the deck pieces which are ready to be fixed in place & also made a cutout on the stern for access to the rudder linkage/servo..

Using some 2mm copper sheet I made some braces for the keel..

The top half of keel is screwed in from inside of the hull through a piece of 3x2 block of wood which I fixed in place using Epoxy

I used JB Marine Weld to fix & seal the keel to the Hull & Prop Shaft..

I then covered the keel with JB Marine Weld, this made it solid as well as make it water proof

I then added the copper braces to add strength joining the top & bottom parts of keel to the prop shaft, again these were fixed in place using JB Marine Weld, these were held in place using a few pieces of scrap wood while the Marine Weld set..

Once set I then sanded down to a smooth finish..

I then used some Epoxy Putty to shape the area above the prop joining the keel to the rudder support/rudder shaft, I then coated it using JB Marine Weld & then sanded for a smooth finish..

I cut out the rest of the deck pieces, once I have the electrics sorted, these deck pieces will be perma fixed in place & then covered with some filler..

Hole made for access to Rudder Linkage & Servo..

Wheelhouse Stained & Varnished..

Made a start on the wheel, need to add handles which will be in form of 4mm Brass tube..

tizdaz · « **Reply #123 on:** January 28, 2018, 11:11:53 pm »

Rudder Linkage / access hole

I cut out access hole for access to the rudder servo/linkage, this will be hidden once the deck/fittings are finished.

I used a little JB marine weld to hold the position of servo support beams, JB Marine Weld is quite slow setting so It gave me time to make small adjustments during the cure so I made sure alignment was good.

I then used some P40 to bond the beams in place & I also made a timber frame around the rudder support & filled this with some P40 & then Gorilla Epoxy around the edges to be sure it was watertight..

tizdaz · « **Reply #124 on:** January 28, 2018, 11:55:12 pm »

Final test & all seems good (touch wood!) You might hear a little rattle which is basically the washers on the shaft, in the water they won't be rattling!

Rudder is very responsive & I adjusted the EPA to roughly 60-70% which gave enough throw & is well within the safe area.

http://www.tizdaz.co.uk/boat/vids/proptest3.mp4

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Author Topic: 71" (1.8m) TID Tug Build (Read 60804 times)

Stavros