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[Vintage]

Hi All,

I have a very nice old Veron Huntsman, that I built many years ago, and it is currently fitted with an Irvine 40 glow engine which I would like to replace with a brushless system.

I know nothing about brushless motors, the relevant speed control, nor the cells although I'm assuming that Lipo cells are the way to go as they're lighter.

I'm hoping that someone on the site might have a recommendation having already fitted something similar.

It'd be good to have plenty of performance so I'd prefer fit something larger and perhaps not use all the potential rather than fit something smaller that struggles...

Thanks in advance,

Mark

P.S. - I appreciate that there are very detailed threads on this site containing much info. about all things brushless but I'd just like a recommendation for this particular application if possible.

[red181]

Mark,


have you searched the threads for Huntsman posts, this site is full of info if you just have a look. Have you read my build?


http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,21584.0.html


Its such a BIG question you ask, with so many variables,


Paul

[imsinking]

After advice from Paul I converted my old Aerokit's Swordsman to brushless , see my post . . .
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,56327.0.html
Using an 'OUT RUNNER' motor ( 2814T 820 Kv at 11.1v lipo gives 9102 rpm at maximum power) more than enough torque from the lower Kv , you will be well pleased.
You MUST get a proper LIPO charger to be safe, there's a lot of counterfeit one's around , take care . . .
A genuine TURNIGY or a genuine (SKY RC iMAX B6 balance charger fits the bill for me) .
Bill

[canabus]

Hi Vintage

We use a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv or a D3548-1100kv with a car ESC 60Amp(HK-60A SL), program card (HK- Prog-Card), 40mm 2 blade prop and a 5800mah 40C 3S or 4S Zippy Compact Lipo Battery.
12210 rpm on 3S and 16280 rpm on 4S.
No water cooling!!!
I am running the D3548-1100kv on 3S in my 34" Aerokits Sea Commander.
It is a nice slow cruiser with a touch of sting in it's tail !!!

[boatmadman]

I did a huntsman refurb, here:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,46524.0.html
It has a 1300kv outrunner powered on 4s lipo. There is a pic and a short video of performance at the end of the thread.
It goes really well.
Ian

[Vintage]

Hi All,

Many thanks for all the advice, I'll spend some time trawling through it and then, no doubt, have more questions 

I can't believe the price variations - there's a great youtube video of a Veron Huntsman in the States and I searched online for the motor it was running and the cost seemed to be over £200 whereas others seem to be incredibly reasonable.

Paul - you mentioned in your thread:  "The big job here was setting the prop angle. The original Veron plans are set up for IC, meaning the angle of the prop is far too great."

Can you clarify the need for this please as I'm loathed to rip the prop shaft out if I can avoid it...

Thanks again for all the helpful info.

Mark

[inertia]

Paul - you mentioned in your thread:  "The big job here was setting the prop angle. The original Veron plans are set up for IC, meaning the angle of the prop is far too great."
Can you clarify the need for this please as I'm loathed to rip the prop shaft out if I can avoid it...

Mark
I wouldn't question Paul's reasoning here but I have been making scale Fairey powerboats for quite a while now and would beg to differ (slightly). While it's theoretically true that a steeper shaft angle reduces the efficiency of the prop the effect isn't significant unless you have a ridiculously steep angle. The real Swordsman's shafts are at 15° to the keel line and they go like greased weasel-pooh. My little 1/16 scale H31 has a shaft at 12.5° to the keel; if you want to see how limited its performance isn't then have a look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uw1C8SfZPS4&feature=youtu.be
Video by The Man with the Flowered Shirts.
Dave M

[red181]

The big job here was setting the prop angle. The original Veron plans are set up for IC, meaning the angle of the prop is far too great

Well I think it could be the original Vernon (as apposed to precedent which Dave specialises in) had a ridiculous angle, after it exited the hull, Don't know why old IC boats where like this , So I can only comment on the Veron, as that is what I have, and what you are building.


The red boat was as I got it off ebay, look at that gap between prop and hull, a good proportion of thrust is being lost here. After refurb, see how much closer it is. Its a very easy job to do, no major structural work, just a pair of mole grips and twist it out. Use a round rat tail file to open up the slot in the hull to reduce the angle, re epoxy in. For the cost, its work a new shaft, My original was M3, I swopped over to M5 so the shaft had less whip effect due to the high revs I run, and stainless.
See the picture of the real thing, its close to the hull

[imsinking]

I've got to side with Paul here, some of the shaft angles in old kit boats are ridiculous  in some cases , my Huntress (based on a Precedent H31 hull ) needed the propshaft repositioning aft by a LOONG way, The Aerokit's Swordsman I built (way back  ) I positioned the shaft as low as possible & still get the Glow motor in, resulting in being nose heavy . . .Veron's ? maybe they were trying to keep the motor central , resulting in the steep angles.
With the advent of the lightweight Brushless equipment now (& LIPO's) weight ceases to be the major problem , my Swordsman has a new lease of life now , planing easily on half throttle , full throttle is for seagull worrying . 
Bill   

[red181]

And here is what happens when you go over something in a lake..... It was Newsham Park in Liverpool, I think I hit a Ford Cortina