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[FrozenRabbit471]

So day two brings some fun and learning lessons.


The keel come apart twice, so I made up some bracing and glued them on. Perfect!
I never had the assembly in the bow that would house the bow thrusters, all the way in place 
It was glued and I never found out until several rib section down. I had to tack hammer it
in place. I was as nervous I would break it. But it broke free and worked out OK.


The end of day two closed out well as I glued my fingers together. Perfect

[T33cno]

You need to fix the keel securely in a straight line or as you progress it will warp and twist trust me !


If it's going to be a working model ignore the build procedure and do not fix the deck . Dry fit it as many times as you need to but no glue 

[david48]

Are you using superglue ???
David

[T33cno]

Looks that way
I used aliphatic resin glue

[david48]

Please alter Rodderdam to Rotterdam .
thank you
David

[FrozenRabbit471]

Unsure how to edit the thread title David

Please alter Rodderdam to Rotterdam .
thank you
David

[david48]

Thanks
David

[Peter Fitness]

Title spelling corrected at OP's request.

Peter Fitness, Moderator.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Thank you Peter

Title spelling corrected at OP's request.

Peter Fitness, Moderator.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Today was day 3, This where I realized there's no less fun is ahead, but the easy part is over.

I have completed the hull framing and the prop tube supports.
As per the instructions, the next step is to apply the decking. But luckily from research, I discovered this is something to avoid at this stage. At least until I have the RC components straightened out.

I don't even have my RC components yet as I'm still trying to figure out what to get, how to do it and not to break the bank. Some say, "you can't put a price on a hobby"... Ummm, yes you can.
You don't have to buy the best of the best. If one can't afford it, second best will do. The best can "up and quit too".

So in the meantime, I figure working and completing the exterior of the hull is a good idea.

[Peter Fitness]

When it comes to the selection of radio equipment everyone has his own idea of what is the best, relative to price. Obviously, if you are prepared to pay in excess of $1000 you will get an all singing, all dancing unit, most of the functions of which you will never use on a model boat, but it's not necessary to pay anything like that much for a very capable outfit.


I came to model boating about 14 years ago from RC flying, and some of my radios were state of the art (at the time) and far more capable than I needed for boating. A few years ago I was introduced to the world of 2.4 Ghz and bought a couple of sets from Hobby King. One is the HK branded unit, a good performer, but it has the drawback of needing to be connected to a computer to change the settings , not a big job, but inconvenient. Another I have is also from Hobby King branded Turnigy, which cost me the grand total of $50 Australian, delivered to my door. This is a 6 channel set with servo reversing switches on the front of the case, is easy to use and has all the range I need for boats, plus connection to a PC is not required. I've never had a moment's trouble with it.


Then we come to Electronic Speed Controls (ESCs). Again, everyone has his favourite, but I use Mtroniks almost exclusively, and again, have never experienced a single problem with any of them. The ACTion brand are excellent units, beautifully made, but are considerably dearer, at least, they are here in Australia. I do have one which is a combination twin ESC and mixer, and it is a fabulous unit. I'm sure other members will have different suggestions for you, so in the end it will be up to you to decide.


You are probably already aware of this, but be sure to provide access to all the electrical and mechanical components so you can easily get at them if necessary. You will also need access to the rudder linkage so adjustments can be made if needed. Our club sails in salt water which can even cause brass to corrode, so I remove my rudder posts from their tubes periodically to lightly coat them with grease. All my boats have hatches installed over the rudder assemblies for this purpose.


I look forward to seeing further progress on your model.


Good luck,


Peter.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Thanks a bunch Peter.

I get a discouraged feeling when it comes to the thought of RC component portion of the build. That said, I also know once I decide on my supplies and approach, that I'll execute the challenge effectively. I won't go all out on the electronics for this build.

As mentioned in my previous posts, I'd love to have a bow thruster, a few dimmed lights and obvious my two motors. I assume it's optimal to have two esc's to which I agree. I will be happy enough with a 4 ch transmitter/receiver for this boat and I think I will use a NiMh battery.

Being that I live on the prairies, watersheds being scarce and frigid -40° weather for 6 months, my boat(s) won't be in the water very often.

Today I have no photo or story (day 4), as I am soaking the balsa plank for bending for the hull bottom. Tomorrow, I will have a progress report.

Peter, your small points of view and suggestion / direction is worth it's weight..... in gold coins!
(have to inject some maritime lingo)

Terry

When it comes to the selection of radio equipment everyone has his own idea of what is the best, relative to price. Obviously, if you are prepared to pay in excess of $1000 you will get an all singing, all dancing unit, most of the functions of which you will never use on a model boat, but it's not necessary to pay anything like that much for a very capable outfit.


I came to model boating about 14 years ago from RC flying, and some of my radios were state of the art (at the time) and far more capable than I needed for boating. A few years ago I was introduced to the world of 2.4 Ghz and bought a couple of sets from Hobby King. One is the HK branded unit, a good performer, but it has the drawback of needing to be connected to a computer to change the settings , not a big job, but inconvenient. Another I have is also from Hobby King branded Turnigy, which cost me the grand total of $50 Australian, delivered to my door. This is a 6 channel set with servo reversing switches on the front of the case, is easy to use and has all the range I need for boats, plus connection to a PC is not required. I've never had a moment's trouble with it.


Then we come to Electronic Speed Controls (ESCs). Again, everyone has his favourite, but I use Mtroniks almost exclusively, and again, have never experienced a single problem with any of them. The ACTion brand are excellent units, beautifully made, but are considerably dearer, at least, they are here in Australia. I do have one which is a combination twin ESC and mixer, and it is a fabulous unit. I'm sure other members will have different suggestions for you, so in the end it will be up to you to decide.


You are probably already aware of this, but be sure to provide access to all the electrical and mechanical components so you can easily get at them if necessary. You will also need access to the rudder linkage so adjustments can be made if needed. Our club sails in salt water which can even cause brass to corrode, so I remove my rudder posts from their tubes periodically to lightly coat them with grease. All my boats have hatches installed over the rudder assemblies for this purpose.


I look forward to seeing further progress on your model.


Good luck,


Peter.

[FrozenRabbit471]

I lied to Peter, and for that I am ever so sorry.


I told Peter I had nothing to report for Day 4. I figured I should offer something.


Today, I filled a large boiler and dropped in two large floor boards for the bottom of the keel and two lengths that run along the length of either side of the stern. They soaked for about 3 to 4 hours. (a little less for the stern boards, they were tinner).


I applied them using various tools, clamps, tacks etc until I got the curves I "think" would do the trick. I'm wondering if I might have soaked the large keel boards a wee longer.


Here's a few pics. Anchors away!

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hey all, welcome to day 5.

It's a glue-fingers-together kind of day. I checked the balsa this morning and they were dry. So I broke out the glue. I glued all 4 flat keel bottom and bottom stern pieces and clamped / pinned it all down.

If you notice in one of my pics today (the frontal view) the left side on the bow shows a slight buckle. This tells me there might have been a couple spots that was not as wet as others. And / or, it is between partitions. I hope this can be easily corrected it has some putty or filler before I cloth.

I may do some other things with the build today while the frame is curing.

Here are a few pics.

[bfgstew]

I would guess the 'buckle' is down to the keel not being secured straight and true on your build board. Each frame should have been secured in place square and true as well, until the glue had cured, then move onto the next one. The action of glue drying will 'pull' the keel out of true. I am afraid you may struggle to get rid of it. You may be able to correct it now before you add any more parts.
Hopefully more experienced builders can help out.

[T33cno]

I think you are attempting too many pieces at once. What adhesive are you using? you mention balsa? but all those parts are plywood.


I affixed the sides first then the base panels one at a time.


Have you sanded the edge of the bulkheads to the shape of the curves so you get 100% contact?

[FrozenRabbit471]

T33cno & bfgstew,


You are both correct in your assumptions. I welcome the criticism and the suggestions. Some say and believe this was too much for my first build. I have no argument, those who think that are right. But as many time I might mess up, the better I'll get at it. It's always been the school of hard knocks for me.


I'm positive about this. All I can do is stand back and gesture obscenities at the boat. It's easy because the boat doesn't say anything back. I'll try to mess with it as I go and hide a few mistakes. My boat will look great for such daunting task.


I can guarantee you, my next hull will be be as true as can be.

[FrozenRabbit471]

Hey all,

I haven't given up. Just a little busy. As many of you had advised, I have slowed down the rush. I'm glad I did. I can appreciate how and why "some" first timers who build big the first time around, get overwhelmed and quit.

Don't get me wrong. I am not overwhelmed. But I see why and where the advise and concern comes from. The frame is done, that was the easy part. I see now where the patience, the ability to be slow & steady and the nack for precision all comes together.

I have some minor challenges with my hull, but I think I'll be OK. I see how the rest of the build requires what I noted above. I don't have a photo posted, but I do have the forward lower stern to port wraparound applied
(front bow section plywood steamed, bent, dried to fit and glued)

I also had 1 plank attached to the stern keel-prop shaft section! WOOHOO. Then I discovered I had the wrong size plank glued on. That's why it looked weird. Five minutes of my life i will never get back. But I did learn a few new words you won't find in a bible.

So in the end, one hour of work this morning went well.

Sail safe.


 

[T33cno]

Well done
No consolation but I used the wrong planks there too! Easy mistake

[Paul2407]

Well done sounds like it's coming along, mistakes are fine as long as we all learn by them but it sounds like you are, just keep at it, and if your unsure with anything put a post on here someone is bound to be able to help 


Look forward to some more pictures 

[FrozenRabbit471]

As always, thanks for your support

[FrozenRabbit471]

two led acid batteries vs a good NiMh? please


T

[FrozenRabbit471]

 I don't know how sacrilegious it is, but the more I look at my Smit Rotterdam Build, the more I visualize personal changes I like to make. I don't like the original colors, I think my boat would look better without the forward mast and to down-scale the main mast and also without the deck protection bars. I may even move the stacks just slightly away from the rear wheel house and place the stairs in between each stack and the wheelhouse.


That's just what I see now. I can't see going farther than that, but I'm excited to see the changes. the good thing is, these items can always be added on if I'm wrong.


So, should I be lined up and shot or can you see some fun?

[david48]

Have you looked at Action Electronics on Component Shop at the wiring diagram all the info is there for your build .
David
 

[FrozenRabbit471]

Have you looked at Action Electronics on Component Shop at the wiring diagram all the info is there for your build .
David
 

I have David. It's a great resource. thank you