Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[Trucker]

Hi, All
just some thing im battling with, im not sure, but, it makes sense, should the inside of the hull have some kind of decking in order to secure the motor and electrics to, if so should it be ply wood or will almost any material do.


Trucker

[bfgstew]

Whatever 'floats your boat'........


Wooden hull use ply.
GRP use plasticard.


It's entirely up to you. Look at some build logs and see how othersgo about it.......

[chas]

Keeping electronics and batteries away from the bilges and any water is a good practice. Any supports are best if they spread the load to the bulkheads or frames rather than onto the planking or skins. GPS hulls are less of  a problem.
 I've used wood metal and plastic onto wood gps and plastic hulls without a problem.
Chas

[tigertiger]

I have often seen motors with their own separate mount, which is parallel to the line of the prop shaft.
Radio trays I have seen as just a flat piece of ply, or even a box,  parallel to the waterline.
The biggest consideration is battery placement, if you are going to use heavy batteries, at is affects the trim and balance of the boat. If you do a search on here, there has been at least one detailed discussion of battery placement.
If you look at the masterclass builds, you will see several ideas for mounting motors, electrics and batteries.

[Baldrick]

 I find that the motor support or deck is usually constrained by the amount of room you have in the bilges to get the necessary support in. On my current build the motor is very low so all that could be achieved is a 5mm thick hardwood platform ,shaped to sit in the bottom of the shell and support the motor at the correct height and angle to align with the shaft and glue this into position (Gorilla waterproof foaming glue, not resin). OK a bit on the basic side but effective , rock solid and not going nowhere nomatter what abuse it gets.

[tigertiger]

Hi Baldrick. What brand, and type, of glue have you used in the photo? It looks a bit thicker than Gorilla glue.

[Plastic - RIP]

I do things slightly differently - My motors are normally siliconed to the bottom of the boat so the propshaft is lower, more horizontal and more realistically placed rather than the ridiculous angles seen on lots of models (45 deg??).
The battery is on the bottom too - located by a retaining wall.

This also gets the batteries and motor masses as low as possible making the model much more stable than those mounted on a platform where these item's C of G  is way above the waterline.

I fit waterproof bulkheads along the length of the boat so it has separate compartments to stop any water sloshing around and affecting stability.

The only places water can get in is the rudder post and propshaft - both issues can be minimised with proper maintenance.

[Baldrick]

Hi Baldrick. What brand, and type, of glue have you used in the photo? It looks a bit thicker than Gorilla glue.

Hi tigertiger.
   The glue I used is the Gorilla PU Waterproof      https://www.screwfix.com/p/gorilla-glue-115ml/54593 
  The stuff that is the colour and consistency of Maple Syrup.  It is quite fast drying and as it does so it expands 3 X it's volume and foams.  Perhaps not the best thing for using on your planking but for welding bits into the hull very useful.  As you can see I bonded the platform hard on to the bottom of the shell and it just left a small drainage way at the keel plate.

[tigertiger]

Thanks. I am guessing you used big gobs of it. I don't remember it foaming up that much.

[Baldrick]

Thanks. I am guessing you used big gobs of it. I don't remember it foaming up that much.

   Not a lot more than you would use with say a silicone adhesive but it does need moisture to activate. Lick one of the faces to be glued (before you put the glue on)

[mrlownotes]

A wipe with a damp cloth would be much safer than a swipe with a wet tongue. It takes ages to pick the glass fibre out your taste buds.

[grendel]

I use a small perfume spray bottle to damp surfaces before using it

[tt1]

Hello trucker, as others have mentioned pretty well anything that suits is ok for mounting, as long as it doesn't dissolve if it gets wet! I've used all manner of materials depending on the application, plasticard, foam board, acrylic, wood, aluminium etc etc. An adhesive I've used an awful lot is a tube of soudal building adhesive, dispensed via the normal silicone cartridge gun, squeeze some on a scrap piece of anything and use a spatula of sorts to apply, or use direct from the gun. This stuff is absolutely ace, waterproof to the point it can be applied "under water" takes almost any temperature, gives a firm grip without being brittle,gap filling and gives plenty of time for manoever, sticks almost anything to anything no danger   here's a pic of batts mounted on ally and motor on wood. Hope this helps, cheers Tony

[Colin Bishop]

As an aside, I always like to design my direct drive motor mountings to accommodate a degree of adjustment rather than fix everything rigidly in place.

However, my general preference for belt drive which incorporates gearing down from motor to prop to improve efficiency and  makes it a lot easier to align motors with shafts.

It also delivers substantial savings in power consumption as the motor and the prop both run at much nearer their optimum revolutions. What's not to like?

Colin