Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[Nordlys]

I hope this isnt a dumb question but would it be foolhardy to use Superglue on hull planking?
I will be covering the finished hull with a Epoxy resin.
Im having some difficulty sticky down the 2nd layer of planking because there are no frames to clamp onto for this layer (using Titebond).


I thought CA glue might grip quickly?


Nordlys.

[unbuiltnautilus]

You could use a thick cyano or a gel, but probably just the higher viscosity stuff, but use a spray activator as well and the job will go much easier. Expect to get superglue finger though!!

[John W E]

hi there Peter


As has already been stated Superglue may be used and has been used in the past quite successfully - the only problem I have found using this glue is that it doesn't give one much time to position the planks in the correct position.   I have noted that you are using only 1/32 ply for the planks; may I ask how wide they are? They should be no wider than 10mm.  The 'T' pins which we have talked about should be able to hold the 1/32 thick planks in place quite easily -while the glue sets - that is if you are using a PVA based glue which I find works best - as it gives ample time for the planks to be positioned in the right place, as you sometimes find you have to remove the plank to trim it a bit so that it fits snugly.  The holes that the 'T' pins leave in the planks can be filled quite easily after you have finished.

[Nordlys]

Hi John, I am using 1/32nd  ply x 15mm wide planks for the first layer which is completed, are you saying the planks are to wide then  for 2nd layer?
I can easily reduce them to 10mm before going any further.

The T pins do not penetrate this ply, they simply bend! I have resorted to using tape to try and hold the planks down in place but its not that
successful thats why I wondered if CA glue would be any easier.


N

[Nordlys]

Ok, I have reduced the plank size now to 10mm and Im using Mobile Marines superglue med. Layed in about 8 planks in no time, adjusted each one to fit
snuggly before glueing, seems to be working fine.


I presume that the 10mm width plank takes the shape easier with less force to straighten itself out?


Anyway , its looking promising for the morning resumption!


N

[ballastanksian]

If you do use Super glue do make sure your workspace is well ventilated as it plays havoc with the nostrils and sinuses and over time can cause respiratory issues as someone mentioned on the forum some time back. Most of the glues suitable for what you are doing are nasty to a greater or lesser degree, but again, planning and ventilation will make for a more pleasant working experience.

[Nordlys]

Yes Ian you are so right. I have been having respiratory issues  which have been more troublesome each time I use super glue and other modelling
paints and sealants, cellulose thinners being one nasty one.
I did get underway with CA last night but I must switch back to Titebond today for the rest of the planking task as I must have inhaled the superglue fumes for too long.
What with fumes and wood dust this a hazardous hobby at times!!


N

[Colin Bishop]

You might find the best answer is De Luxe Super Phatic which is not far off superglue performance on wood and will dry quicker than Titebond. Like you I cannot use superglue as it gives me acute hayfever sysmtoms lasting several days although I can tolerate the odourless type to some extent which is rather expensive.

https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/rc-modelling/31-super-phatic-5060243900180.html

Colin

[Nordlys]

Thanks Colin,
I will look into using this super phatic. 
The common superglue gives off cyanide type fumes and it took me a long time to figure out what was causing my respiratory issue.
It was hard to accept at first that this was the source of the problem, similarily MDF and ply wood dust is also off the menu for me.


By the way, I am underway with my Seaplane Tender build (hence this posting) and using the brilliant photos that you sent me last year as a refence still.

[John W E]

 Hi have you tried pushing the  ' T ' pins into the ply using pliers? ,
Hold the pin near the point to stop bending the pin
john

[Nordlys]

Im going to post a picture of the hull shortly John to show my progress.
N

[Baldrick]

Thanks Colin,
I will look into using this super phatic. 
The common superglue gives off cyanide type fumes and it took me a long time to figure out what was causing my respiratory issue.
It was hard to accept at first that this was the source of the problem, similarily MDF and ply wood dust is also off the menu for me.


By the way, I am underway with my Seaplane Tender build (hence this posting) and using the brilliant photos that you sent me last year as a refence still.

  Now that some better weather is occasionally available I take the opportunity of removing the dodgy operations, glue, sawdust ,paint GRP, resin out into the garden and work al fresco.  My sinus's are obliged by this
 

[Nordlys]

Hope this works ! Planking progress on Seaplane Tender and two types of pin holding down the 2nd layer of planks.


The T pins bend very easily even when I use long nose pliers John


N

[Nordlys]

Forgot to point out that I have switched from 20mm wide planks to 10mm width on advice!
Its progressing ok this afternoon in between gardening tasks while the glue drys.
N

[Nordlys]

Baldrick! More people than I imagined are troubled by all the 'dodgy' tasks that we have to endure in modelling!
Yep - I quickly move outdoor when the temp improves and pick up the back log of dodgy operations that you point out.
N

[Pat Matthews]

On all of my PT builds, I use 1/32" by about 3/8" basswood (lime wood) planks, secured to the stringers, edge-glued, and then 2nd layer to first, with medium CA. Maybe the occasional thin CA wicked under a recalcitrant plank. I never bother with PVAs or epoxies, no patience for that!


In the ares close to the bow, you will need to spend time fitting (or spiling) planks... basswood allows a wee bit of sideways bending, but I fit them anyway. I think with plywood you'll have no chance of bending in-plane.

[grendel]

I bought some deep throated G clamps for tricky situations like this 3" clamps with 120mm throat and 2" with a 90mm throat, great to get in and clamp at the deep awkward corners.

[Nordlys]

Pat - Looks very much like theres a bottle of Titebond in your photo!
Im at the very same stage of planking as in your photo's, I havent managed to keep the appearance quite so uniform as you have.
Yep, I am using 1/32 ply,  I must say its bending to the shape fairly well but as you point out , near the bow end it becomes tricky and messy!


The deep throat G clamps would be most useful, I will look out for some.
N