Topic: Another Sealight puffer build (Read 28748 times)

birlinn · « **Reply #75 on:** August 06, 2018, 06:54:34 pm »

Good idea- thanks, Bri.
Phil

big_bri · « **Reply #76 on:** August 06, 2018, 07:05:39 pm »

Your most welcome

birlinn · « **Reply #77 on:** August 07, 2018, 08:39:31 am »

I think someone else posted the Sodt's law that a photo will always appear showing details you have got wrong, just after you have finished them.
In my case, it's the engine room skylight. I noticed from photos of Sealight that the Mountfleet drawings gave the wrong profile in side elevation, and corrected this. Now I find that the thing should be much wider than shown on the plan. Too late- it's all fitted, darn it.
I don't suppose anyone else will notice, but it sure annoys me.

birlinn · « **Reply #78 on:** August 09, 2018, 03:20:10 pm »

And a bit more done. Yet to replace the eyes for the funnel stays- one has broken off already. Fish hooks now bought- just waiting for some new collets for the Dremel.
She will look better with the tarps fitted over the hatch.
Phil

Stan · « **Reply #79 on:** August 09, 2018, 10:25:29 pm »

HI This model was dry brushed and washes applied to create a dirty look but the wood deck has changed shades over the years due to the sun.

birlinn · « **Reply #80 on:** August 10, 2018, 07:15:41 am »

Looks very realistic, Stan- I love the cat and the seagull! Mind you don't lose those hammers over the side.
What did you use for the washes?

birlinn · « **Reply #81 on:** August 13, 2018, 04:33:07 pm »

I managed to remove the white metal stay eyes on the mast, and replace them with fish hook eyes without too much drama.- much more robust. Quarter deck now fixed and painted.
I am racking my brains on how to fix the removable superstructure down to the quarter deck, without things being too conspicuous. I may try ungluing one of the bunker hatch boards, and having some sort of concealed screw fixing beneath it. The board could be then held with a small magnet, or even a dab of blue tack.
Anyone any ideas, please?
Phil

morley bill 1 · « **Reply #82 on:** August 13, 2018, 10:29:03 pm »

I made my superstructure a push fit on a tall upstand it never came loose when sailing Bill ...

birlinn · « **Reply #83 on:** August 13, 2018, 11:04:43 pm »

The upstand is about 20 mm. I'll see if I can glue shims in- it will not need much.

birlinn · « **Reply #84 on:** August 28, 2018, 10:32:17 am »

I used some 1/64" ply to make shims, and the superstructure is now a tight push fit.

The stern area is finished; the main hatch will be next, and needs 42 wooden wedges. The kit tarpaulin is a bit of a bright green, so I will put a wash over that before fixing. I am still picking up courage to put washes over the hull and superstructure- I intend to add a small amount of weathering, but a long way short of the 'rust everywhere' type.

Can you see the Sunday roast in the meat safe?
Phil

Tafelspitz · « **Reply #85 on:** August 28, 2018, 02:13:02 pm »

Fantastic work!

Arrow5 · « **Reply #86 on:** August 29, 2018, 09:09:59 am »

Agree, good workmanship. Re the shims, they may need removal when the wood gets wet, they will swell even if painted. Thin metal alloy from a cola or beer "tin" would be better perhaps. Wooden clothes pegs a source of wedges, save a lot of cutting ?? Pair of kippers in the meatsafe more likely

I have a copy of the February 2003 Marine Modelling International with Jim Pottinger`s 8 page Puffer supplement if you want free photo-copies PM me with postal address.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #87 on:** August 29, 2018, 07:36:47 pm »

Two sizes of clothes pegs, smaller ones from stationers sometimes pound shops. Might save a lot of sawing.

birlinn · « **Reply #88 on:** August 29, 2018, 09:52:29 pm »

Hi Arrow;
The clothes pegs could work, but I don't think there would be any less sawing. I am cutting the wedges from 3.2mm square timber- three cuts or so give me two wedges.
The roof of Sealight seems to be white in the photos I have- was probably painted canvas.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #89 on:** August 29, 2018, 10:29:24 pm »

"Ach man she`ll be looking like a Chentilmaan`s yat" as a certain Skipper would say. I wonder about the soot, coal dust and grime a light colour wouldn't last too long after painting. Dont forget that Sealight was figment of the designer`s imagination, a simplified model kit. I would have changed the name too. I`ll get Jim Pottinger`s review off Thursday.

birlinn · « **Reply #90 on:** August 30, 2018, 07:56:47 am »

Agreed the kit is not very accurate, but I am going by the photos of the actual Sealight wherever they differ from the kit, and trying to make a more accurate model. Hence the scratch built wheel house, and quite a few other mods.
Phil

derekwarner · « **Reply #91 on:** August 30, 2018, 08:36:28 am »

Lovely old image in the mist/smog? Phil......why is she flying the N for November or No flag in the foremast? or is there an earlier explanation code for this? ... Derek

Arrow5 · « **Reply #92 on:** August 30, 2018, 08:56:52 am »

What a great photograph, on the Clyde in Glasgow city centre I think, could be Greenock. When the big ships could come all the way in. Wonder what that one is in the background ? White/light roof on wheelhouse right enough.

No idea what flag signal means.

Liverbudgie2 · « **Reply #93 on:** August 30, 2018, 11:25:11 am »

The Anchor vessel in the background is either the Circassia, Caledonia or Cilicia.

LB

Arrow5 · « **Reply #94 on:** August 30, 2018, 12:21:01 pm »

Where do you reckon Budgie , Glesca, Broomielaw ?

birlinn · « **Reply #95 on:** August 31, 2018, 01:55:14 pm »

Weathering washes applied, and tarpaulins secured.
Wash port doors next.
I made the ladder from timber- I didn't like the white metal one in the kit.

birlinn · « **Reply #96 on:** September 02, 2018, 02:51:44 pm »

Now fixed the working wash port doors.
I seem to be working forrards, so the punt (dinghy) is next, and I am not sure what to do. All the photos seem to show it lashed to the hatch covers right way up. The GRP kit moulding is quite thick, and has very visible glass mat on the inside. To try and cover it with the scale clinker on the inside isn't easy, particularly at the stem and stern. Also it would give an even thicker hull.
If only it had been vac formed!
My old art school in Lincoln had an ideal vac forming rig, but there seem to be none around here. I was thinking of using the GRP hull as a basis for vac forming- might have to try a home-made rig.
Does anyone do small one offs by post? It's only about 130mm long.
Phil

birlinn · « **Reply #97 on:** September 02, 2018, 06:15:51 pm »

After pondering for a bit, I think I will scratch build the punt, with shell built strakes.
The build is going a bit too quickly!

birlinn · « **Reply #98 on:** September 03, 2018, 01:36:25 pm »

Here we go!
Spent 1 1/2 hours making the moulds, the transom, and the keel- now to start planking.

birlinn · « **Reply #99 on:** September 03, 2018, 05:27:39 pm »

Planked, and first coat of primer now dry.
Ribs, stringers, transoms and knees to follow. Will need a bit of sanding down, but not too bad for 3 1/2 hours work.

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Author Topic: Another Sealight puffer build (Read 28748 times)