Topic: Andy’s, nothing like a Stevn's arctic build! (Read 152220 times)

RST · « **Reply #100 on:** October 02, 2020, 09:14:38 pm »

Hmm, I agree, thats the way I do it: stringers around the edge and cross supports, fit deck, then clad the bulwarks after. That's right in my mind for fitting, gluing and filling gaps, but each to their own I guess.

Taranis · « **Reply #101 on:** October 02, 2020, 09:16:49 pm »

No cross supports so far and all is solid. There will be at least one though for the hatches at some point. It's all built off cuff.
Re size, could easy bathe a 3yr old in it

Taranis · « **Reply #102 on:** October 02, 2020, 10:58:59 pm »

Battled on to finish tonight. Last piece fitted.
See you tomorrow

Taranis · « **Reply #103 on:** October 03, 2020, 11:27:10 am »

Plans changed today as it is tipping down

However DHL just dropped these off. Very pleased and grateful to the German seller

Hoping the postman brings my 30mm acetal round bar today

Taranis · « **Reply #104 on:** October 03, 2020, 11:36:19 am »

The second I finished typing the postman knocked! spooky

Mark T · « **Reply #105 on:** October 03, 2020, 12:36:35 pm »

I have to say that is looking absolutely awesome Andy

That paxolin that you use gives such a nice clean edge too!

Taranis · « **Reply #106 on:** October 03, 2020, 05:55:06 pm »

Cheers Mark

So the day wasn't wasted and it's still raining.

I've created a housing so the assembly can be fitted after painting

Taranis · « **Reply #107 on:** October 03, 2020, 08:39:44 pm »

The deck is now permanently fixed in place with a combination of epoxy and Stixall. Epoxy for Paxolin to Paxolin and Stixall for Paxolin to GRP.

I don't think Brian showed enough pictures to illustrate his construction so I've done it how I think best and I hope my pictures help the other builders.

The roller is going to be a dry fit until final painting and then will just be positioned with a bit of clear silicon.
I can still build the shrouds either end without issue.

Taranis · « **Reply #108 on:** October 04, 2020, 04:08:33 pm »

Caught up with trimming the bulwarks to height. Using a block of wood as a height guage to take the bulk away then followed around with a course file.

A good base for the gunwale

I cannot remember what and when I used Milliput for but the packet had been previously used. Anyway I'm hoping this sets and sticks good enough for final shaping

Taranis · « **Reply #109 on:** October 04, 2020, 07:02:24 pm »

Strange experience not what I expected or maybe I did

Anyway whilst sanding this occurred

Nothing ventured nothing gained. The mouldings are fine so I cleaned all surfaces with isopropanol then applied slow set CA to the milliput.

Result! Milliput is stayput

Taranis · « **Reply #110 on:** October 05, 2020, 05:35:26 pm »

More milliput but this stayed put

Taranis · « **Reply #111 on:** October 05, 2020, 05:38:15 pm »

Made a start on the Gunwale. I think its going to be quite easy fitting ribs to this.

Taranis · « **Reply #112 on:** October 05, 2020, 09:04:38 pm »

Another little gem of an idea taken from Brian

This is 22mm copper pipe

ChrisH1981 · « **Reply #113 on:** October 06, 2020, 07:33:29 am »

Really enjoying this build Andy!!

Taranis · « **Reply #114 on:** October 06, 2020, 04:08:42 pm »

Good to know Chris, I am too but when I get bored or stuck I have three or is it four other part builds

Meanwhile. . . Yesterday I didn't do enough pictures to illustrate it's not just a matter of flattening copper tube. Each needs shaping to the bulwark one by one. Only 11 more to do

Final fitted with epoxy.

Taranis · « **Reply #115 on:** October 06, 2020, 10:02:53 pm »

End of shift.
Completed 4 of 14 washports and port side gunwale

I deliberately angled the gunwale out around the bollards and left it the same width

I've not decided what to you use for the ribs yet but perhaps box section styrene and it will fit snuggly up behind the gunwale. Around the bow I plan to use Z section as it always looks good on other peoples builds.

Taranis · « **Reply #116 on:** October 07, 2020, 11:51:34 am »

Continuing this morning with the gunwale. I will be left only with the bow and stern quarters to make from flat sheet.
I never mentioned the adhesive being used.
This works most excellently on styrene to styrene and styrene to grp, extremely solid.

Taranis · « **Reply #117 on:** October 07, 2020, 04:10:38 pm »

Update.
I took three goes at this before I was happy. This will be reinforced under its front edge with Fusion adhesive.

All the bulwarks were reduced to 32mm and I've ordered a new piece of hose for the bow. The piece I ordered near the start of the thread is far too big.

Howard · « **Reply #118 on:** October 07, 2020, 06:46:26 pm »

Hello Andy,
Just wanted to say your doing an amazing build watching every day it helps when Brian made such a great plug and Anth then making such amazing good hulls from it but then you showing us great idea's and modelling stills a lot I will use on my next builds to of which are Anth's hulls keep up the great work so we all have something good to see' read each day when we log in.
Regards Howard.

Taranis · « **Reply #119 on:** October 07, 2020, 07:53:30 pm »

Thanks Howard

I'm missing Brian's posts as I'm having to think for myself

Fusion adhesive. I buy this from Deans Marine as usually best price

Essential for strong bonds "fusion" of styrene to GRP.

Hull inverted to apply to the bow gunwale as reinforcement. I built this up in layers to a decent sized fillet with an old paint brush.

This will be out of sight

Just a bit of starboard side to do then on to the stern quarters.

I'm sure that's a smile

Taranis · « **Reply #120 on:** October 08, 2020, 08:50:06 am »

Good morning. Last night I ordered a 300x300 sheet of 4mm paxolin. This will be cut to fit as the stern hatch over the drives. As Brian mentioned the Arctic has a section of timbered deck and my 4mm paxolin will be brought up to deck height with 2mm planks. I have some Amati walnut in stock that will do.
I am of course not building the Arctic but the beauty of free styling is being able to pick and choose features from multiple tugs. So maybe a little like

I also like the colour scheme which is easy to paint as the deck and bulwarks are all red lead 🥳

Taranis · « **Reply #121 on:** October 08, 2020, 08:11:33 pm »

One of those backwards days

I decided to remove and refit the drive bed again. The underside of the hull at the stern is actually not even. The starboard side of the keel is concave and port convex on the outside. So I have ground away the inner surface of starboard to bring the drive bush lower to be level with port. The outside of Starboard will need P38 to make it symmetrical.

Got the front end gunwales complete and bollards done

Taranis · « **Reply #122 on:** October 08, 2020, 10:30:09 pm »

I thought I'd take a look at the bow pipe fender and referring to the dry dock picture earlier in the thread I drilled holes to match. Starting from centre the holes are an inch apart.
I've just ordered hex head stainless steel self tappers for this.
My new pipe is on the way and is 32mm O.D.
I may fit Z profile ribs on the inside tomorrow