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[DaveM]

Ivor, is there a way of indicating when my Electronize ESCs are in the stopped position while on the lake?  There seems to be a point just off stopped where the ESCs buzz and I am sure that is not a good place to be for any length of time. A light would be good. Brian

Brian
There's no way I can think of, except maybe an audio amplifier and speaker to broadcast the buzzing sound. You really need to adjust the throttle trim on your transmitter while the model is on the bench to ensure that stop means stop. Depending on the model of Electronize I think you can turn a preset on the ESC to adjust the neutral setting, too.

Ivor
There's always the PM system...... 
DM

[Southern Sailor]

Thank you Ivor and Dave. The throttles are on the left and right sticks, so what I do is make sure the exact position on these is always found when I want to stop the motors on the lake.  It would be nice to have a visual indication as well. Brian

[DaveM]

Thank you Ivor and Dave. The throttles are on the left and right sticks, so what I do is make sure the exact position on these is always found when I want to stop the motors on the lake.  It would be nice to have a visual indication as well. Brian

If you are using sticks without spring-centring then you're on a hiding to nothing here.
DM

[Southern Sailor]

Yes I have taken the spring off both left and right sticks because of the dual throttle control. I have been tempted to get the Graupner dual stick control on the F14 or F16 transmitter, but a bit expensive for me I'm afraid. Brian 

[ivorthediver]

Dave ......Thanks for the Nudge , but I  dont look in that often so did not think of it .


Brian , I tend to agree with the Tank Steering method , but like you can't afford to go down that road and I use A Specktrum 6i .
This meets my needs of which Action units have always met , but found issues with the current suppliers sadly , however my current mostly used vessel is a Tug which gives me great pleasure as my other posts on here indicate .


I use my[size=78%] LH stick for control and RH for thrusters / sounds , and running twin 54mm Kort's manage to recover others boats on a fairly regular basis towing a system I developed along the defence boom basis and it works well and saves many tears at the local club , and if I can offer any help please give me a shout .[/size]

[Tug Fanatic]

Can you adjust the throttle profile on your transmitter to give a wider dead zone and/or does a little exponential in the throttle curve help?

[ivorthediver]

If it can .......I am unaware of it [ they are Specktrum DX6i]

[Southern Sailor]

I'll check out the dead zone solution, but i have quite a basic Tx.  It's a JR XF631. Served me well. Brian

[Tug Fanatic]

I don't think that you have either on a JR XF631.
The DX6i, on some versions at least, has expo on all the main channels except the throttle.

[ivorthediver]

Thats not looking so good eh Brian Sorry mate

[malcolmfrary]

Put an index mark on the transmitter to show when its at neutral.  Make sure that it is at the point where the reversing relay is not operated.  A permanently operated relay does more harm than a faintly buzzing motor.

[Southern Sailor]

Not to worry thanks. I think Malcolm has an important point.  Make sure that, at the mark on the Tx, the reversing relays have not engaged. And the other point of this is, of course,  that you set the ESCs up so that the relays engage for astern and not ahead.  They were, as far as I remember, the wrong way round before I changed them. Happy sailing. Brian

[tizdaz]

Hi guys, a bit of a bump of my old post,
I just want to make sure i wire this up correct as i didnt get around to it the last time i made this post!



So here is the switch I have bought that i want to use (along with diagram it shows) :




Here is my current switch that i'm using at present that came supplied with my P103, as you can see it is connected via a futaba connector, so with the Black/Red & White wires, where would i connect them to my new switch that is shown above, i want the light to come on the switch when the power is on & then off when i switch the power off?:


Cheers!

[malcolmfrary]

If the hope is to replace the change-ove slide switch with an on-off switch with an added indicator, it isn't going to work.
The slide switch is a low current device controlling the operation of the circuit that it connects to.  The illuminating switch connectos into, and directly controls, the power supply.  The illumination device gets its power from the main supply.  There probably wouldn't be enough current in the supply for the slide switch to work the tumbler switch, even if the on-off switch was going to provide the right functions to do the same job.

[DaveM]

Unless my knowledge of SPCO switches is sadly lacking, the set-up shown will cause a straight short between the two battery poles when contacts 1 and 2 are bridged. I'm also pretty sure that the P103 isn't supplied with a switch; it's a dual Schottky diode which prevents current from flowing between two parallel batteries. You're probably confusing it with either P107 or P112 - both of which already have power indicator LEDs fitted.

DaveM

[C-3PO]

I don't think poles 1 and 2 get bridged.

Pole 1 (gold pin) is the negative supply to "in switch LED" and does not form any part of the switching circuit which is only between poles 2 & 3

Or at least that's how I read it - odd that it may be!

C-3PO

[DaveM]

I don't think poles 1 and 2 get bridged.

Pole 1 (gold pin) is the negative supply to "in switch LED" and does not form any part of the switching circuit which is only between poles 2 & 3

Or at least that's how I read it - odd that it may be!

C-3PO

That would make sense, and I've no problems with being wrong! I would question the need for an LED indictator as part of the switch, though, especially if there's another one just down the line.
DM

[warspite]

Looks like when the switch is off the voltage does not connect between contacts 2, 3 and 1, with only the load connected via the -ve, when the switch is connected, the voltage connects from 2 to 3 and then through to the load and back to -ve, then there is a resistor and led where the power travels through 3 to 1 for it to illuminate - correct?

[malcolmfrary]

Looks like when the switch is off the voltage does not connect between contacts 2, 3 and 1, with only the load connected via the -ve, when the switch is connected, the voltage connects from 2 to 3 and then through to the load and back to -ve, then there is a resistor and led where the power travels through 3 to 1 for it to illuminate - correct?

Very much so, which is probably nothing like what happens with the slide switch which just connects the center pin to either the left or right pin.

[tizdaz]

it worked, i just connected it up with the black/red wires for the Pos & Neg on illuminated switch & then i connected the white lead to the other connector, no issues & works as should :)

[tizdaz]

Unless my knowledge of SPCO switches is sadly lacking, the set-up shown will cause a straight short between the two battery poles when contacts 1 and 2 are bridged. I'm also pretty sure that the P103 isn't supplied with a switch; it's a dual Schottky diode which prevents current from flowing between two parallel batteries. You're probably confusing it with either P107 or P112 - both of which already have power indicator LEDs fitted.

DaveM

your correct, it was the 107 i have which has a switch! & as you pointed out, LED indicators, but the power switch will be mounted above deck under a hatch for easy access to switch on/off so the LED's on the P107 wont be visible, hence why i wanted to fit this illuminated switch, but all sorted now & works good :)