Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[Voyager]

Hya chaps I need your help finding a suitable glazing material, It must be in resin or liquid form and not clear plastic glazing material. I thought about devcon, but that goes yellow when dry. The other problem i have is that it must be slow setting to give plenty of time for the air bubbles to escape. I have seen on the market scenic water which comes in a tub, not sure if this could be used for glazing? Other than that i'm stuck :-\

Any suggestions???

Regards: Voyager

[DickyD]

This company do all sorts of casting resins, most chrystal clear.

http://www.yellowcatshop.co.uk/shop/default.asp?clientid=14&gid=4dmod&viewstate=32769&tabcatid=3500021&subcatid=3500028

 

[DickyD]

Another resin supplier:

http://www.resin-supplies.co.uk/notes_on_small_resin_castings.htm

[Voyager]

Many thanks all I'll look into that, just might be what i need!

[Guy Bagley]

tomps Casting supplies sell a clear resin to make your own paperweights,
 its easy to use, dries fairly quickly and will fit the bill !


 www.tomps.com

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

I am considering filling portholes with Epoxy instead of just covering them with a piece of clear plastic.

I was wondering what material to use behind the portholes to keep the wet epoxy in place while it hardens. The portholes are already installed in the boat, so it would have to be laid on it's side to fill them, one side at a time.

This material would then be removed when the epoxy hardens, leaving an undamaged clear view. 

Help please.

Ken



 

[DickyD]

Masking tape Ken, thats what I use.

[boatmadman]

Ken,

I have used electricians insulating tape, the kind with the gloss finish, put the gloss side in to the port, secure with a bit of ply behind and fill on the other side.

Ian

[Colin Bishop]

Ken,

depending on the size of your portholes, a possible option would be to punch out disks from transparent plastic using a leather punch such as this one: http://www.choiceful.com/choiceful-id-436-Revolving-Leather-Punch.html

If you can get the size right, you can push them into the porthole to give an interference fit and then seal them by using Humbrol Clearfix on the inside. http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/humbrol-28ml-clearfix-p-11983.html

It worked OK for me on my Dean's Medea kit.

Colin

[riggers24]

Would Flair canopy glue not work?? depending on the size of the porthole

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Masking tape Ken, thats what I use.

Get away   

Doesn't the tape sticky bit show up in any way.  Sounds just the cheap answer I was looking for. Thanks for that. I'll post pictures as I go along and it may help others.

I was getting so disheartened with the 'stick a bit of plastic behind the window frames'. I could never get it right. Glue not sticking. Glue smudging the panes. Warping with curves,  You name it. I've been there.

Ken

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Ken,

I have used electricians insulating tape, the kind with the gloss finish, put the gloss side in to the port, secure with a bit of ply behind and fill on the other side.

Ian

Gosh I've started something here.  Thanks for your idea, Ian.  If there's one thing I've got, then it's insulating tape. I assume the sticky part is to the rear. I shall try that with Dicky's masking tape as well.  Belts and braces you know !!

Ken

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Ken,

 a possible option would be to punch out disks from transparent plastic using a leather punch such as this one:

It worked OK for me on my Dean's Medea kit.

Colin

Hi Colin.

I have used portholes with the disks of perspex on other models and it does work.

Unfortunately there is no glazing with this set, so the thought of cutting them to fit, filled me with horror.      I did this on the Waverley and they're not waterproof.

Thanks for your input.

Ken

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Would Flair canopy glue not work?? depending on the size of the porthole

Thanks for the idea, Riggers.  I've got a large amount of epoxy, so no problem with the material. It's 'what won't stick to it',  that I was after.

I assumed it would have to be a close grain type of 'stuff' but didn't know what worked best. I even though about 'non stick' frying pan material.

Ken

 

[dodgy geezer]

It's 'what won't stick to it',  that I was after.

I assumed it would have to be a close grain type of 'stuff' but didn't know what worked best. I even though about 'non stick' frying pan material.

Ken

What size are your portholes?

My Revell corvette has Bostick Clear epoxy portholes, and there was no need to put any backing on. Surface tension held the drop of epoxy flat across the porthole face. This was with portholes at about 0.25" diameter...

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

What size are your portholes?

My portholes are around 9mm, but the main concern is the square windows on the bridge. These are approximately 20mm X 15mm, so it's quite a large area. hence the need for a sturdy support with no leakage, whilst drying.

I'll give it a try when the lifeboats are finished.

ken

[Fifie]

Try my website
It may suggest the solution
Fifie
www.bellrockmodels.com