Topic: Midwest Boothbay Lobster boat 30" build (Read 155940 times)

Taranis · « **Reply #325 on:** June 20, 2019, 03:31:14 pm »

Quote from: Netleyned on June 20, 2019, 03:29:11 pm

.

Would Mast Man have summat suitable?

Ned

Probably make me one but I'd prefer metal. Plan B perhaps Ned

dougal99 · « **Reply #326 on:** June 20, 2019, 05:40:21 pm »

Squires do a 4mm brass pully block. Any good?

Taranis · « **Reply #327 on:** June 20, 2019, 06:32:46 pm »

Quote from: dougal99 on June 20, 2019, 05:40:21 pm

Squires do a 4mm brass pully block. Any good?

No but thanks
its about 13mm diameter

EDIT
from DaveM
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,62915.msg666319.html#msg666319

RST · « **Reply #328 on:** June 20, 2019, 06:53:12 pm »

I just looked on Cornwall model boats and there's lots of pulleys / sheaves to chose from around that size. Brass if you prefer. Personally I'd just dig the compass cutter and make one from 3 polystyrene discs personally. Old pennies could be recycled or used as templates also.

Taranis · « **Reply #329 on:** June 20, 2019, 07:14:09 pm »

Thanks but generally too narrow
I ordered these and will sleeve the centre to the correct size
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-Miniature-U-Groove-Guide-Pulley-Rail-Track-Ball-Bearings-Wheel-4x-13x-7mm/191890827747?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Taranis · « **Reply #330 on:** June 21, 2019, 01:04:10 pm »

I've added lead shot either side of the keel set in resin.
In addition a bucket of lead shot on deck and a bag in front of the motor. I have plenty of scope for adding details to the model with no fear of being too heavy.
Still not down to the line but looking good.

Taranis · « **Reply #331 on:** June 21, 2019, 01:36:12 pm »

She would be quite happy at 3.6kg
Currently at (see below) with removable ballast and 2x 5000 NiMh
Hopefully will see on Sunday whether to up the KV on the motor or not

Taranis · « **Reply #332 on:** June 21, 2019, 02:07:39 pm »

Taranis · « **Reply #333 on:** June 21, 2019, 03:18:48 pm »

Colour returned to strakes with matt lacquer

clockworks · « **Reply #334 on:** June 21, 2019, 04:23:25 pm »

I like that battery removal loop idea.

I ordered the ebay build book that you linked to here a while ago. Just had my money refunded, as the seller can't get the book from his supplier.
Probably won't need it anyway, because pretty much everything has been covered by this thread and Stan's rebuild thread.

Taranis · « **Reply #335 on:** June 21, 2019, 04:24:35 pm »

Quote from: clockworks on June 21, 2019, 04:23:25 pm

I like that battery removal loop idea.

I ordered the ebay build book that you linked to here a while ago. Just had my money refunded, as the seller can't get the book from his supplier.
Probably won't need it anyway, because pretty much everything has been covered by this thread and Stan's rebuild thread.

Yes I was refunded too
There are other sellers with actual stock but I decided not to bother too

RST · « **Reply #336 on:** June 21, 2019, 05:52:55 pm »

Don't know too much about these boats but sure I've seen similar ones in real life on my travels. The 'marker buoy": is that a permanent fixture on the roof so folk know which pots belong to which boat?

Not sure I fancy sailing one with the mizzen sail up though. Might make steering "interesting".

Am interested in your faith of the tamiya spray primers. I've had no luck at all. Maybe I had a couple of tins from a bad batch.

Rich

Netleyned · « **Reply #337 on:** June 21, 2019, 06:34:09 pm »

Tried a similar way of removing
batteries, but the adhesive did
not like the warmth from the
discharging batteries.
I managed with cyano after removing
The sticky pad residue.
Ned

Taranis · « **Reply #338 on:** June 21, 2019, 07:08:02 pm »

Quote from: RST on June 21, 2019, 05:52:55 pm

Don't know too much about these boats but sure I've seen similar ones in real life on my travels. The 'marker buoy": is that a permanent fixture on the roof so folk know which pots belong to which boat?

Not sure I fancy sailing one with the mizzen sail up though. Might make steering "interesting".

Am interested in your faith of the tamiya spray primers. I've had no luck at all. Maybe I had a couple of tins from a bad batch.
Rich

Only the FINE primer that says for metal is any good
Yes to the bouy
Not sailed yet will let you know

Taranis · « **Reply #339 on:** June 21, 2019, 07:08:56 pm »

Quote from: Netleyned on June 21, 2019, 06:34:09 pm

Tried a similar way of removing
batteries, but the adhesive did
not like the warmth from the
discharging batteries.
I managed with cyano after removing
The sticky pad residue.
Ned

The pads I use are ok

RST · « **Reply #340 on:** June 21, 2019, 07:58:29 pm »

I always heat these type of pads up before sticking down (hairdryer works) it practically doubles the bond of the sticky pad. Even rubbing hard with a thumb before peeling the film off works ok. Some cheap tiewrap bases are really hit and miss, a 3M logo on the pad makes a big difference. I do similar things with batteries but usually use masking tape or insulating tape to make little tabs you can pinch between fingers. Bit like you get in TV remotes / smoke alarms .

Noted re tamiya, I think their regular plastic primer sucks.

Taranis · « **Reply #341 on:** June 21, 2019, 08:06:31 pm »

Just wipe with isopropanol before applying

Taranis · « **Reply #342 on:** June 22, 2019, 04:01:17 pm »

Ready for first open water test at Wilton Park tomorrow

I'm hopeful the motor choice is adequate but it's not expensive to swap for a higher KV if required

Mark T · « **Reply #343 on:** June 22, 2019, 04:18:19 pm »

Its the little details that I really like about this build - The strakes look great on the side of the hull and it must have been a very meticulous job to get them back to wood. Looks great on the water too

Taranis · « **Reply #344 on:** June 22, 2019, 04:21:23 pm »

Quote from: Mark T on June 22, 2019, 04:18:19 pm

Its the little details that I really like about this build - The strakes look great on the side of the hull and it must have been a very meticulous job to get them back to wood. Looks great on the water too

Thanks and not really Mark
The strakes were covered in Finishing resin before painting and all I have done is sand the face off back to the resin

Actually an easy cheat. The instructions called for them to be CA'd onto finished paintwork which although it works I think my option is better and more secure

Mark T · « **Reply #345 on:** June 22, 2019, 04:29:40 pm »

I'm with you on this - its no good gluing onto a painted surface as its only as good as the adhesion of the paint to the sub layer. Its not going to last in the long term so your solution is simple but very effective - nice one!

Taranis · « **Reply #346 on:** June 22, 2019, 04:31:48 pm »

Quote from: Mark T on June 22, 2019, 04:29:40 pm

I'm with you on this - its no good gluing onto a painted surface as its only as good as the adhesion of the paint to the sub layer. Its not going to last in the long term so your solution is simple but very effective - nice one!

Thanks I thought so

They are CA'd to the resin glass hull then resined over then painted over then lacquered over after sanding. Pretty permanent

Likewise the spray bars! they are meant to be attached after painting too

Stan will supervise tomorrow after a late change of plans

Taranis · « **Reply #347 on:** June 22, 2019, 05:08:06 pm »

I bet no one would know that my cabin is not glued on either unless they read this thread

Almost everything is detachable

Taranis · « **Reply #348 on:** June 22, 2019, 07:24:32 pm »

Is there a good reason why people have throttle on left and rudder on right stick ?
I’m thinking to be able to film and take photos it would be better to have rudder on throttle stick

Capt Podge · « **Reply #349 on:** June 22, 2019, 07:34:43 pm »

I've not tried to swap them over yet, but I guess it would depend to some extent whether you're left or right handed?
Regards
Ray.

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Author Topic: Midwest Boothbay Lobster boat 30" build (Read 155940 times)

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