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[coastie]

trying to build a 1/32nd sailing fifie Jimg kindly gave me the measurements of the masts and yards.foremast 65`6" = 24.5 inches dia works out 17.4mm-7.46 mmmizzen 55` =20.5" dia10.62mm-7.6 mm
bowsprit 46`6" dia= 15mm-7.6mm
all look to big for the hull which is 27" long by 8.5" widephoto 1 is correct size for mastsphoto 2  I did the foremast in 15mm dowel and mizzen mast and bowsprit in 12mm dowelI think they both look to big for hull what do you guys think.foreyard mizzen yard and mizzen boom work  out at 7.62mm diameter so upped it to 8mmWould you downsize the masts and bowsprit to foremast 12mm mizzen and bowsprit 10mmCoastie

[tigertiger]

My thoughts.

One thing to consider is that these were working boats, not sports boats, and were built for durability, even in storms. They carried a lot of sail to make it home as soon as they had a good catch, while the fish was fresh, the boats were heavy (especially going home), they were also wide beamed (drag) and all this added up to a lot of forces going through the mast.The masts may indeed seem heavy. See pics of Reaper. NB the second pick also has mast shadow.
By contrast, racing boats, had more elegant masts and spars. Even though they also carried a lot of sail they slipped through the water more easily, and did not go out in storms. Notoriously the 'J' Class, did not go out in storms. Sailing dinghies carry little weight and masts and spars are also lighter.

The other thing to think about, if it will be a working model, is the all up weight of the model, and the forces acting on the sail (and mast) when the wind gets up. You need to be sure that your masts will be strong enough. Remember your masts will be made of wood, not the much stronger aluminium tube that you see on many sailing models.

[RST]

Having stood on the quayside looking at her a few time it always struck me how thick the woodwork is on her.  I always thought the masts looked like tree trunks!  You can see how chunky they are on the pics.  They always struck me as being heavier than other things that age.  But I'm no expert and that's an entirely subjective comment.




You might find your masts look a bit different painted.  The thicker one might also look a bit more natural when it's darkened.





Rich

[coastie]

Thanks Tiger models gonna be a static model going in window to stop nosey tourists standing at the bottom of the garden gawding in with camera`s. remade the mizzen mast its looks better now so when glue`s dried I`ll remake the foremast and taper it some more be a lot quicker if I still had my lathe lol.Thanks again Tiger & Rich for the imput.Coastie

[RST]

Extra pics I found looking on my HDD if it helps?  A few years back now...

Rich

[RST]

Another pic, can't add it to the original post.

[RST]

Looking back at your pics, and my photos of it in Anstruther.  I never remembered the rear mast offset from C/L which obviously clears the helm -is yours offset, or is it deceptive in your pic?

Rich

[Capt Podge]

When I built the jotika model fifie Amaranth I was a bit shocked to find that the wheelhouse and rear mast were off-set to port. All the promotional shots of the model were of side view only. However, it transpired that the fifies were built that way. The addition of the wheelhouse came later.


Regards,
Ray.

[JimG]

When drifters were lying to their nets the fore mast was lowered  and only the rear sail left up keeping their head to the wind. Due to the length of the fore mast the rear had to be offset so the fore would clear it. The crutch to hold the fore mast can be seen forward of the rear mast.
Jim

[Capt Podge]

Ah, yes, I see what you mean now. That also explains why the derrick on my model rests in a crutch set off to starboard on the wheelhouse roof.
Thanks for info Jim.


Regards,
Ray.