malcolmfraryWould the wiring diagrams work and could the esc switches be left in the on position?
With 2 20amp ESC's what rating would the wire and switch have to be?
The drawings would sort of work. An overall fuse is there to protect the battery against whatever the boat offers in the way of a fault, and the rest of the boat against the heat that a fault could create in the wiring. That includes the major fault liability, the wiring to the switch. It should therefore be between battery positive and switch. ESCs and their wiring are generally well sealed against damage, wiring to a switch less so.
With an overall power switch, the ESC switches would be left on.
The earlier suggestion that the fuse vale should be more than the motors draw under use, but less than the total ESC rating is still valid. The important figure that gives the current through the fuse is not the ESC rating, but the work that is expeced from the motors.
To add a bit of complexity, it helps to remember that switches have several parameters.
Two Three of interest are switching current (what it can switch on or off) and constant carrying current, (what it can carry after the contacts have settled and stoped bouncing). The constant current figure tends to be considerably higher than the switching maximum. Voltage is good to know, but should not be a problem at model battery voltages.
Wire standard? I tend to look at what has been used for car accessories for similar currents and go for that.
A 20 amp ESC does not, a such, draw 20A, that figure is the current draw beyond which it will let the smoke out. Good practice is to determine by testing what current is drawn, double that for safety, buy the next value up from that. You can do such testing with brushed motors before buying the ESC. With brushless motors, a correctly set up and specified ESC is an essential part of the motor, without which is is simply a device for converting battery charge into heat.
My personal preference is to just unplug the battery before taking it out for charging.