Topic: B16 (MT2) pillar drill chuck removal (Read 5879 times)

ukmike · « **on:** July 12, 2020, 04:00:49 pm »

Hello.

I have a Scheppach DP16VL pillar drill that I would like to change the key type chuck to a keyless one.
There is no slot in the quill to use for tapered drifts and the manual says to open the chuck wide and tap it with a mallet, being careful to hold one hand ready to catch it when it falls. Sounds easy, but, despite my best attempts, without bashing it too hard and doing damage, it refuses to budge.

The taper is female in the chuck and the main spindle has the male B16 taper, if that helps.
Have tried heating the chuck with a heat gun but that is no help either.

Any suggestions ?

Mike.

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #1 on:** July 12, 2020, 04:18:00 pm »

Is the a hole through the Quill?

..... screw inside the chuck?

imsinking · « **Reply #2 on:** July 12, 2020, 04:18:36 pm »

No hole down the centre shaft ? heating the chuck up wont help it'll just swell it in the female socket

pack ice round it would be more effective , but I wouldn't hold my breath , can you get a wedge betwix the chuck & the end of the main shaft ? (a fox wedge) one either side if you can, should shift it , may pop off the chuck if it's a taper fit on the MT2 shank , if it's a screw on chuck see if a sharp blow clockwise will loosen it , good luck. . .
Bill

ukmike · « **Reply #3 on:** July 12, 2020, 04:28:34 pm »

Thanks for the replies.

As my post says, there is no slot,hole or window of any kind in the quill.

Also, there is nowhere to get a wedge in to force it out.

I chose in desperation, to try a little heating.

Can't see how it could be packed in ice but will see if it's possible, nothing ventured eh !!

Mike.

imsinking · « **Reply #4 on:** July 12, 2020, 04:49:36 pm »

It would be unusual to have a male taper on the quill shaft , unless it's been machined all in one , there's no knowing what some manufacturer's do . . . if the chuck is just the chuck and no extension piece it may well be the end of the chuck has the female taper machined into it and cooling it wont work either , have the makers not got a website you could peer at ? you never know . . .
Bill

imsinking · « **Reply #5 on:** July 12, 2020, 04:54:45 pm »

Quote from: imsinking on July 12, 2020, 04:49:36 pm

It would be unusual to have a male taper on the quill shaft , unless it's been machined all in one , there's no knowing what some manufacturer's do . . . if the chuck is just the chuck and no extension piece it may well be the end of the chuck has the female taper machined into it and cooling it wont work either , have the makers not got a website you could peer at ? you never know . . .
Bill

Just a thought, open the chuck as wide as it'll go and , using a mirror , see if the end of the quill is visible , if it is you might be able to get it off with a puller and a rod . .

Corposant · « **Reply #6 on:** July 12, 2020, 07:35:11 pm »

I am unfamiliar with the drill but I think my approach would be to tighten a large allen key (or similar) in the chuck and tap it downwards with a piece of hardwood held close to the rightangle.
Just a thought,Mike

frazer heslop · « **Reply #7 on:** July 12, 2020, 07:38:33 pm »

https://youtu.be/AtNM8-VUvrg

Flea bay sell the wedges or you could make them. Check just to make sure that a holding screw is not fitted by opening the jaws fully and looking in
cheers

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #8 on:** July 12, 2020, 07:58:29 pm »

On Utube:

https://youtu.be/23qxNxs1Uq0

https://youtu.be/fZwx_773tbo

https://youtu.be/wkRTkvPpMlY

nemesis · « **Reply #9 on:** July 12, 2020, 08:33:07 pm »

If you use wedges, use two,one either side and hit them at the same time.nemesis

BeeJay UK · « **Reply #10 on:** July 12, 2020, 09:15:26 pm »

Or use a track rod end splitting wedge. Two wedges in one tool.

ukmike · « **Reply #11 on:** July 12, 2020, 10:26:22 pm »

Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions, very much appreciated.

Unfortunately, I will have to live with the original chuck as there is a plastic depth stop/chip guard mounting base which is fitted before the chuck is installed.
Although it's slotted for clamping purposes, the forces needed to open it up wide enough to move up out of the way and reveal the top of the chuck will smash it as it is hard ABS and I do use it quite often as a depth stop.

Mike.

david48 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 13, 2020, 01:28:13 am »

I can not visualise the set up have you tried the two hammer trick ,hold a lump hammer 4lb or some where about that firm against the MT then hit directly opposite it with a 2lb hammer 9 out of ten times that works .
ONLY DO THIS ONCE ,if it will not work the first time you will bruise the metal .
As I said I do not know your set up so all of the above might be a load of tosh in your situation.
David

grendel · « **Reply #13 on:** July 13, 2020, 07:55:15 am »

if you wind the chuck down, then lock the spindle than you will have clearance to get a wedge in (unless the guard moves with the spindle, though the guard should just need the bolt loosening to remove over the chuck, no great force should be needed to remove the guard.

warspite · « **Reply #14 on:** July 13, 2020, 09:30:49 am »

Photo's might help or

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nq8p0AwzKkc at about 7:15 minutes, if this is the correct model it uses a special tool that came with it, and is slid between the spindle and the chuck on two flats ground into the spindle and the chuck twisted off as its a threaded end

ukmike · « **Reply #15 on:** July 13, 2020, 09:31:36 am »

Good morning all.

David48.
Where do I hit the chuck, the part that moves to tighten it or the the solid part where the chuck key fits ?

Grendel.
The guard base hole is a lot smaller than the chuck, that's why it is fitted before fitting the chuck.
Even with the clamping screw removed it is not possible to move it either up the quill out of the way or over the chuck without it shattering.

Mike.

david48 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 13, 2020, 09:37:22 am »

HI Mike
Would there be any chance of a picture or a link to a web picture I could see before I commit my self ,as said i am not sure what the set up looks like .
David

ukmike · « **Reply #17 on:** July 13, 2020, 09:47:16 am »

Photos as requested.

Mike.

grendel · « **Reply #18 on:** July 13, 2020, 09:59:32 am »

yes, there doesnt look to be a lot of clearance to get a wedge in, my drill has the slot and that still requires a sharp whack with a big hammer on the wedge.

frazer heslop · « **Reply #19 on:** July 13, 2020, 10:12:01 am »

Dont know if this is any help but its what the makers suggest
Removing the chuck Open jaws of chuck as wide as they go by turning chuck sleeve anticlockwise (when viewed from above). Carefully tap chuck with mallet in one hand while holding chuck in other hand to prevent dropping it when released from spindle nose.

warspite · « **Reply #20 on:** July 13, 2020, 10:20:55 am »

There looks like a gap between the underside of the stop and the chuck body, is it possible to photo the shaft between the gap, this drill is obviously older than the BD50's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl1Oo4LoXPY at about 7 minutes again it shows the fitting of the chuck, I would suppose clamping a bolt in the jaws and a pull clamp might dislodge it, otherwise sliding a plate with a slot in it and pulling or hitting this with a hammer would work, though pulling it would be better, putting the bed close to it may prevent the chuck from dropping to far.

ukmike · « **Reply #21 on:** July 13, 2020, 11:10:14 am »

Quote from: warspite on July 13, 2020, 10:20:55 am

There looks like a gap between the underside of the stop and the chuck body, is it possible to photo the shaft between the gap, this drill is obviously older than the BD50's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl1Oo4LoXPY at about 7 minutes again it shows the fitting of the chuck, I would suppose clamping a bolt in the jaws and a pull clamp might dislodge it, otherwise sliding a plate with a slot in it and pulling or hitting this with a hammer would work, though pulling it would be better, putting the bed close to it may prevent the chuck from dropping to far.

The drill is only 2years old and still a current model.

Mike.

warspite · « **Reply #22 on:** July 13, 2020, 11:56:29 am »

Is the 2nd Youtube video the correct model?

There appears to be several videos that show how to use the wedges to remove the chuck, as I asked would drilling a hole in a bar and using a bolt, clamp the bar with a nut against the bolt head - then fit the bolt in the chuck and tighten as much as possible, then apply a hammer to the bar close to the bolt head, means you would not have to try and force something between the stop/guard plastic and the chuck. (use a fairly long M10/12 sized bolt or similar)

david48 · « **Reply #23 on:** July 13, 2020, 12:45:26 pm »

Hi Mike
My idea will not work as there is not enough shaft , as I said a load of tosh I spoke. If it was mine my next move would be to put the chuck key in and give the chuck key a belt with a mallet in the direction of a LEFTHAND THREAD some Black& Deaker drills had that fixing .Now I have run out of ideas.
Good luck
David

ukmike · « **Reply #24 on:** July 13, 2020, 01:02:13 pm »

Quote from: warspite on July 13, 2020, 11:56:29 am

Is the 2nd Youtube video the correct model?

There appears to be several videos that show how to use the wedges to remove the chuck, as I asked would drilling a hole in a bar and using a bolt, clamp the bar with a nut against the bolt head - then fit the bolt in the chuck and tighten as much as possible, then apply a hammer to the bar close to the bolt head, means you would not have to try and force something between the stop/guard plastic and the chuck. (use a fairly long M10/12 sized bolt or similar)

Hi Warspite.

That is the model on the YouTube video.

Mike

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