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[mbm999]

Hi,
I've been lucky enough to have a Nu-Tool SS16 405 mm scroll saw given to me (it's quite old!). So, I hopped on the internet to find out all about it (no manual or blade) and also what they can be used for. It seems it might be pretty useful for cutting wood from plans.
The evidence suggests that it takes a 5" pin blade, which, do seem to be available, however, i'm not sure how many teeth is optimum for this type of work?

I'm pretty sure there are better saws out there but this seems like a low cost way to have a go.
So, does anyone have a manual (maybe a bit of a long shot)) or suggest where and what blades to buy.

Thanks,
Mark

[roycv]

Hi don't know your scroll saw but in general the more teeth then the finer the cut.  The really fine blades will cut brass and ally.  Make sure the teeth are cutting downwards when the scroll saw is working.  I would buy a set of blades and fit them according to the job in hand.  I must have at least 50 blades in various packs.  I don't break many at all but you need to know replacement is easy.

 Can you adjust the tension on the blade?  There is usually a spring tensioning adjustment.  Assuming you have the tension adjustment when not in use release it, I tune mine by flicking the blade with a fingernail and listen to the note.  My Rexxon has a two speed control which can be very useful.  I have a Rexxon and a Hegner and althought the Hegner has a big reputation I find it difficult to choose between them.

Make sure there is a blower attachment at the cutting point it makes it all so much easier, you might find a small spotlight aimed there useful as well.

If you are not used to it it does need practice as the cut will show every hesitstion you make, needs to be an easy, confident and accurate flow with even pressure on the work and lots of room around you (mainly for elbows) to swing the work easily.
Good luck

Roy

[warspite]

I would assume that a suitable length blade with sufficient tange at each end would fit most makes if they are fret saws, screwfix community suggested eclipse to someone, the main differences would be between makes is the thickness of the material that is used for the blade and how long the flat bit at the end is, as for the other dimensions like teeth per inch and width of cut would be similar between each of the manufactures.


Put two blades side by side and there would be differences, but you would have two very similar blades and in most cases designed to be interchangeable i.e. a draper fret saw blade may be similar if not identical to eclipse where the quality of the material used is the defining feature and both can be used in a variety of machines, just like a hack saw blade or junior, all interchangeable with each other in most cases.


My father had brought home a scroll saw when I was in my teens, and I bought blades for it, which I never used, I recently bought a new machine from Lidl and would expect that they would fit if the jaws and stroke were the same (I haven't checked yet as I only used the supplied ones and not checked out the old ones yet).


But what do I know 

[mbm999]

Here's a picture of it and yes it has both a tensioner at the back and a tube going to the blade (do you just blow down it?).

I thought about a pack of these :-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Olson-SA4950-18-Pinned-Scroll-Blades/dp/B000G33Q6Q/ref=sr_1_4?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Scroll+Saw+Blades&qid=1605453405&s=diy&sr=1-4&ts_id=1939169031

Cheers for the info,
Mark

[davejo90]

Here's a picture of it and yes it has both a tensioner at the back and a tube going to the blade (do you just blow down it?).

I thought about a pack of these :-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Olson-SA4950-18-Pinned-Scroll-Blades/dp/B000G33Q6Q/ref=sr_1_4?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Scroll+Saw+Blades&qid=1605453405&s=diy&sr=1-4&ts_id=1939169031

Cheers for the info,
Mark

Hi Mark,

I have the Proxxon machine and also have some of the pinned blades and they look to be the same length, 127mm, as the ones from Amazon, so I would say they're probably all the same or similar.





Just a word of advice, if you've never used one before, the thicker the wood you're cutting the slower you need to go, try not to push too hard at all, a gentle ease of the item you're cutting will see you not having to replace blades that often, when I first started with mine I was replacing blades all the time. Also make sure you use the correct blades for the metal.

I'm sorry if I'm teaching you how to suck eggs 

[john44]

Hi Mark, the tube Pushes onto the nipple on the top of the arm and blows the sawdust away automatically
You don,t have to blow down it.


John

[mbm999]

Ah, that's where the tube goes! It's very stiff so probably would be worth changing it.
I've never used ones of these type of tools before so any advice about how best to use them is welcome.
I'm guessing that there is an optimum blade tension that i will have to learn by trial and error - all part of the fun  .

Cheers,
Mark

[davejo90]

I'm guessing that there is an optimum blade tension that i will have to learn by trial and error - all part of the fun  .Cheers,
Mark

Turn the tension screw round till it starts to bite. Then turn it around another 4/5 half turns. When tightened if you pluck it with finger nail it should sound like a hi note guitar string.

It will be trial and error, I have never over tightened a blade but I have under tightened a few in the early days and they are easily broken that way.

[mbm999]

Thanks, i'll give it a go.