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[ChrisF]

Try and make a list of all the ply and timber that you will need including any small sections for finishing off to make the postage worthwhile. Even if you get too much it can be used on other models.

The number of times I've received an order and not long after I've needed something else!

Chris

[madwelshman]

That's good advice Chris, thank you.


Will

[tonyH]

Hi Will,
SLEC are

[madwelshman]

Personal recommendations go a long way.


Thank you very much.


Will

[madwelshman]

As Chris suggested, I am trying to compile a list of multiple products that I can order in one hit.


3, 4 and 6 mm ply to start with.


Clear plastic for glazing, what thickness do I need to get as an all rounder?  My Sea Rover, Veron Huntsman, 34" Huntsman and presumably Sea Commander (when it eventually arrives) will all need glazing fitting, so I may as well get it all at in one go. 
I'm guessing that I can use the same thickness for all of them?


Will

[tonyH]

Ply or lightply?

[ChrisF]

Hi Will

SLEC only do 0.5mm (clear rigid PVC) which is what RadioJoe used in his Hunters Moon build so easy decision.

I need to put an order in as well and try and follow my own advice by including all I need. I shall probably fail!

Chris

[madwelshman]

Ply or lightply?

Well, it's mostly for cabin sides, cabin roof and cockpit floor.
I presume I need liteply?


I'm presuming the difference between the two is literally the weight compared to ordinary ply? Hense the name liteply?


Will

[madwelshman]

Hi Will

SLEC only do 0.5mm (clear rigid PVC) which is what RadioJoe used in his Hunters Moon build so easy decision.

I need to put an order in as well and try and follow my own advice by including all I need. I shall probably fail!

Chris

I have been checking out other sites as well as SLEC, (eBay and other model shops) for the glazing material and have seen anything from 0.1mm upwards.


I'm thinking some 3, 4 and 6mm sheet, some clear plastic/pvc for the glazing, slo zap to start with.


I haven't worked out what else yet.


Good luck with your list Chris 


Will

[ChrisF]

Liteply is easier to cut and sand but personally I don't use it - there are pros and cons which have been discussed at length before so we won't go there - I use birch ply. For glue I'd suggest aliphatic resin as your main wood glue, plus as you say Slo Zap plus some thin CA. For gluing the glazing best to use canopy glue which dries clear. Apart from the Slo Zap I use Deluxe Materials for glues.

Have you got much in the way of tools? PermaGrit blocks and files are a must for me.

Chris

[madwelshman]

Liteply is easier to cut and sand but personally I don't use it - there are pros and cons which have been discussed at length before so we won't go there. For glue I'd suggest aliphatic resin as your main wood glue, plus as you say Slo Zap plus some thin CA. For gluing the glazing best to use canopy glue which dries clear. Apart from the Slo Zap I use Deluxe Materials for glues.

Have you got much in the way of tools? PermaGrit blocks and files are a must for me.

Chris

Thanks Chris.


Slightly different I know, but I'm a mechanic by trade, so do have some tools that will be useful for this. Files, check. Permagrit block, check. A few knives and scalpels too.
I will need to get a few other tools as time goes on though.


Will

[ChrisF]

I've got quite a few DIY tools together over a number of years, some of which like yours have come in useful, and my Workmates have been very useful. As well as the PermaGrit other tools I use a lot are razor and flush cutting saws which were mentioned earlier.

Even though I scratch build the only big power tool I've bought so far is a scroll saw which has been invaluable and has seen lots of use.

Chris

[madwelshman]

Some more model biased tools are what i need to start building up, saws being one of them.
As time goes on, I'm sure I'll find things I need to get to tackle certain jobs.



Will

[tonyH]

Have you got a fretsaw and a "V" cutting table? Possibly one of the most useful hand tools if ply involved. Especially for window holes etc.

[madwelshman]

Tony, no to either of those.
To be honest, I'm not sure what a V cutting table is 
Oh how I have so much much to learn.


Will

[ChrisF]

Don't worry Will I don't know what a V cutting table is either!

Chris

[tonyH]

Here it is. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Xt6YPxEUgk

[madwelshman]

Here it is. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Xt6YPxEUgk

Ah ha, that makes sense now. Cheers Tony.
That's something that would be easy enough to make.


A fret saw is something on my list of things to buy and another, different grade Permagrit block.


Will

[madwelshman]

Well, I managed to have an hour on 'Rover' tonight.


Inspection showed up that the remaining, centre stern tube, didn't have a shaft in it.
So,.......now I have a Sea Rover without any shaft in at all.


Just as well really, because after 'extraction', I found that the tube was in fact bent, but that wasn't visible with it in situ.

[madwelshman]

I also ran the sander over the undersides and sides too, just so I could see what sort of condition the hull was actually in.
More sanding is needed still, but it's flattened off a bit where the outer tubes used to come through and given me a better idea of how solid it is.

[madwelshman]

The other thing I have done this week, is print out the plan, cut out the cabin sides profile and stick it onto cardboard from a cereal box.
I offered it up roughly alongside the better remaining side to check dimensions and profile, they both appear correct, so next job is to work out exactly where I'm going to cut the old cabin sides down to and then do the same with the template, before making some new cabin sides and installing them.

[ChrisF]

Hi Will

I did wonder about the remaining prop shaft! The hull looks pretty sound though, so once you have installed a new prop shaft and rudder and maybe the prop shaft support/keel timber if required, then you will have a solid basis for a nice boat.

If you can leave the lower parts of the superstructure, below deck, it will save you having to disturb where they are glued into the bulkheads etc. As I said earlier you will need to glue a quite deep strip of timber along where the join will be and then you can clamp the new, upper part of the superstructure to it.

Chris

[madwelshman]

Chris,


yeah, the hull looks pretty good I thought.


I'm thinking about cutting the cabin sides at just below deck level, then the deck will help maintain the cabin shape and once bonded to the lower/old section, plus too the deck, it should be strong enough and water tight (deck to cabin).
If I cut the old sides down to deck level, I will have to insert small sections of sheet brass or similar to maintain the shape between between new and old.
Once I have cut the old sides down and before fitting new ones, I will then fit the new shaft and do as much inside the hull as I can whilst access is better.
I think that's the plan, at the moment anyway.


Will

[Stuw]

Hi Will,


How is this project going? My Lesro Javelin restoration is similar but not quite as tricky as yours. Banging out old propshafts and scratching my head about what to do next and how have featured in my project.


Invaluable help from Bob zooma also featured. 

[madwelshman]

Hi Stuw,


To be honest, the Sea Rover has taken a bit of a back seat at present. I am trying to sort of concentrate on the better of my two Sea Commander instead.
The Sea Rover, I have removed the cabin sides down to deck level, ready to make replacement sides, but that's as far as I've gone with it at present. The Sea Commander needs less work overall, so going to try to get that one finished first and will come back to the Sea Rover at a later date.
As you say, Bob has been a great help (others have as well), offering lots of advice and valuable experience.


The Javelin is a good looking boat and both it and the Rapier are ones that I wouldn't mind having in my fleet at some point.


Will