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[Mark T]

Hi Derek


The whole construction is Castello boxwood and I get it all from the same supplier.


It really does hold an edge and there is very little grain so it's probably the most perfect wood to use. 


Builders in America would love to be able to get their hands on some; but due to import regulations it's in short supply over there and what there is.......well you can imagine the cost.


Pear wood is a great alternative but its not quite as hard


Mark

[Phil22]

Hi Mark,


Hope you're keeping well.


This build is an absolute joy to follow, thanks for posting so many images of your exquisite work. I'm not sure how far you may be into the project but the journey is certainly an enjoyable one for us all.


Cheers!!
Phil

[Mark T]

Hi Phil


Yep we're all good thanks mate and thanks for your comments.


I'm 2.5 years into this build now and its just getting better for me     I really like the challenge and these things do improve your carpentry  - wether I like it or not 


I think I've got about another 2 years on this build and I'll keep on posting.  I only ever build one ship at a time as I find it solving problems in the build easier.


My wife thinks that I need to change my workshop around so that I have more room - who am I to argue 


I think thats a project in its own


Mark

[Mark T]

Hi All


I've not stopped building but the build has stopped me moving forward at a decent rate.  I've been incorrectly calling these parts the waterway but they are in fact the spirketting.  Boy is this a hard piece to make which is why I've not updated this thread.  Each piece is just over a foot long and has to fit pretty much exactly as it is 9mm square and really does not want to bend.


So my problem is the width of "A" is not constant and changes throughout its length.  Angle "B" also changes by about 18 degrees throughout its length too - it's like a moving 3D puzzle.  I will get there just bear with me.





A frustrated Mark 

[Footski]

It looks like you are solving the problems very well to me.

[Mark T]

Thanks Footski I am getting there     I've now managed to cut the bevels accurately enough so that the parts sit flat on the beams.  As I discovered if the bevel isn't correct the dovetails are out of line by about 2mm so they have to be exact.


A couple of pictures of the rough timbers in place now that they have been shaped








And a couple of pictures of the bevel transition from one end to the other








So I've now marked out the dove tails which need cutting out - I'm getting there





Cheers Mark

[B.B]

Absolutely amazing Mark  . 

[Mark T]

Absolutely amazing Mark  .

Thanks Brian - we certainly test ourselves 


Just a quick update - I've now rough finished one piece of four.  The dove tails were cut





Then the internal bevel was roughed out and the part fitted to the beams.  It pretty much clips into place and fits well but will fit better once clamped in place.  The bevel will be finished once the inner waterway is made and the planking above is fitted








I'll update this build once I get the rest of these pieces completed - Cheers Mark

[Mark T]

Hi All


The work continues on the spirketting - loads more dove tails and bevels to cut











Then after loads of fettling they do actually fit 

















So thats those parts in and done and I am so glad about that too - they were not easy to make and achieve a good fit at the same time.  The next part will be the inner waterway so more dovetails to cut 


Cheers Mark

[derekwarner]

Hi Mark ...that aluminium multi tapped block plate looks pretty handy for accurate angular setups....
Are they M8 tapping?
Do you tram alignment from the edge of the plate?

.....and is that a renamed Sherline to Apple milling machine   ?

Derek

[Mark T]

Hi Derek


The plate is a "Tooling Plate" and makes life so much easier.  It's clamped to the mill bed and is set square using a DTI across its length. 


Once done all you need is an engineers square and as you say you can tram from the edge of the plate.


The holes are a UNC thread which is very close to 4mm and the larger holes are 6mm which I drilled and tapped for my vice.  This is the small version as Sherline do supply a larger one too.  Another great feature of these plates is it saves any damage to the mills bed should anything go wrong.


As for the stickers - yep my grand kids love customising my gear 


Mark

[Mark T]

Another update from me - The inner waterway os pretty much the same construction but easier to make.








The dovetails really help hold these parts in place but they do need clamping to pull them down to the sheer.  The glued in parts








Next I made and fitted the first plank up the bulwarks.  Then all 3 parts were sanded down and blended together.  I'm really pleased with the final result.

















The next parts to make are the binding strakes which give the ship even more longitudinal strength.


Cheers Mark 

[Footski]

I am stunned, not only by the level of skill in the workmanship, but the knowledge that goes with it. Amazing!

[Mark T]

I am stunned, not only by the level of skill in the workmanship, but the knowledge that goes with it. Amazing!

Hi Footski and thanks very much - I've found that I'm pretty much just learning naval architecture as I go along.  I've found the build easier by reading books on the subject and it's very fascinating.


Have a look on the Ancre FR. website and their are many monographs including Le Rochefort that they sell with the ships history and full plans too.


Mark

[Footski]

Mark,
That is a wonderful site, full of all the things a model ship builder could ever want. I will be perusing the site in detail over the coming days..Thank you for the link.

[Mark T]

You're very welcome - I know of people that collect the monographs as they really are beautifully put together.  Quite often they have no intention of actually building the ship but they give such an insight into the ships history and its architecture. 


Now that I'm really into it I cannot even imagine how they fashioned some of the pieces full size.  They also built them so quickly too!  I've also been surprised just how strong these vessels were - even my model ship is so strong it doesn't flex anywhere and it's not even planked yet!


Another really good book is "The art of ship modelling" by Bernard Frolich.  Everything you will ever need to know is in this fascinating book that is fully of illustrations of his amazing ships.

[Mark T]

Hi All


I've not had a lot of time lately but the binding strakes are now complete.  The front pieces are pretty much more of the same - cut to length and mark out the joints for the mill.








The real challenge begins when the strakes partially pass over the hatch openings as I needed to scribe around each part to get a really good fit.  The issue was maintaining width A in the image below





Now you don't actually have to do this I just wanted to - And why not?  So instead of having straight simple joints I ended up with these complex parts








I think the results were worth the effort and I have also now caught up on the nailing of these parts  - A job that I have come to dislike 














I think that I'm going to leave the main deck as it is without any further planking.  This causes me issues with parts that need sitting on it as they would all need raising.  I'm unsure at the moment but there is no rush to decide;  I just like the way you can see inside?


So my next jobs are to make the bits, bowsprit partner, windlass supports and finish planking the bulwarks up to the gunwale.


Cheers Mark

[ChrisF]

Fantastic workmanship Mark. And great patience!

Chris

[Footski]

Fantastic workmanship Mark. And great patience!

Chris

Well, it’s ok I suppose!!!!!!

[Mark T]

Fantastic workmanship Mark. And great patience!

Chris

Thanks Chris its coming on slowly 

Well, it’s ok I suppose!!!!!!

This cracked me up - cheers Footski 

[SailorGreg]

I think that I'm going to leave the main deck as it is without any further planking.  This causes me issues with parts that need sitting on it as they would all need raising.  I'm unsure at the moment but there is no rush to decide;  I just like the way you can see inside?

Yes, I think being able to view the inside is essential - it would be a crying shame to hide any of that lovely work you have done.  Have you considered partial planking of the main deck? Perhaps one side planked?  You could extend it over the centreline where there is deck furniture is sitting on the deck.

Lovely work as always - and if it helps to encourage you, the nailing adds a lot to the overall effect.
Greg

[Mark T]

Hi Greg - Thanks for the reply and I’m with you I just cannot cover it all up. At the moment I’m unsure what to do so I think I’ll just park it for a while and get on with other parts. I know that I will have to put a base on the manger as it needs to be lined with pewter and probably a few other places too.   I’m just not sure what the planking would add but I can see what it would remove.


Also the nailing is always an issue on models like this. I’m currently using 4 different sizes of iron nails and 2 of treenails. I’m trying to make it look like it doesn’t have a bad case of the measels 

[derekwarner]

Hi Mark....you mention Iron Nails........I have about 660 gm of ~~1mm x 10mm serrated mixture of Brass/Monel planking nails, however some are flat head & some domed ....but would also like to consider Iron nails

Pre-rust on the hull planking before sealing    ......maybe the Iron would not corrode/oxidise that would occur with Steel?

Could you please  give us a heads-up on the source of the Iron nails, as WEB sellers may not know the difference between Iron or Steel...I see plenty of offers of steel, but none specifying Iron, and thinking about this...ductile steel wire would be far easier to produce serrated steel nails as opposed to Iron wire which is not friendly drawing to wire as is not all that ductile 

I also have some 370 gms of ~~3mm x 15mm serrated mixture of Monel/Brass nails for heavier structural joints

Your nailing is far from anything but absolutely uniform in spacing and angularity.......are you using some nailing Jigs to ensure alignment?

Derek

[Capt Podge]

Hello there Mark, having stepped away from the hobby for a number of months I'm now back onboard and playing catch-up on a fair number of build threads, including this one, so I'll be having a step back for a few pages and see how you got to where you are now - I'm sure it'll be just as fascinating as ever.


Cheers!
Ray.

[Mark T]

Hi Derek - Now what I say are iron nails is a sleight of hand. I do not use brass nails at all as they are so difficult to use. They never seem to go in straight, are generally out of scale and to sand down in wood is difficult. They make the process hard and chew up abrasive paper very quickly. So instead I use carbon fibre rod of the correct diameter and glue it in using canopy glue. It sands roughly at the same rate as wood and more importantly it looks black and not shiny gold. I buy it in metre lengths and is easy to find on the net. I also have to say it’s very strong too. So be like me and cheat 


Hi Ray - Always great to hear from you - hope you’re doing okay