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[JoJoElbe]

Hi all,
what a 'big' subject line and I don't even manage to get images into this post.  ... finally.... dropdown worked... not really, now I can't post it... so images are attached ...

My latest work was refurbishing my first model (built 2016), the german motor-lifeboat LÜBECK II  (Sievers model kit).
The LÜBECK II and sisters were 13m long, my 1:20 scale 67cm (incl. bow fender). -- I'll post a summary about her in the next weeks.
My plan was to build next the bigger lifeboat of that time, the HINDENBURG IV (17m) but then, as life goes ....
I watched to many videos on youtube, a lot with rnli boats. I had a few discussions with other model builder here
in germany which are rnli 'afficinados' and finally I got the virus (no, not corona).

Today the Sarik Hobbies Tyne class hull and plans arrived. Send from a nice fellow down in bavaria, who bought that 'just in case' before the brexit.
My LÜBECK II inside the hull of a tyne class:

(see attached images)

The hull should be 1:18 but it seems smaller. I hope I can make a 1:20 version out of it, even if it's 2-3cm too long.  1:20 would fit to my other ships and fit my experiences
what will work and what not in constructing and printing or building parts.
I just copied the plan (in pieces...) and will try to make up a copy of the deck and check the scale of the hull tonight.
Then I may come up with tons of questions here 
The transport box will be the boat house and for the slideway I -- already have some ideas.
At the moment my favorite boathouses + slipway are  St. Davies, Douglas and Wicklow. Personally I have no relation, but somehow I like the Wicklow station.
Just would need to 'cut' the houses a bit so that it will be just the main boat hall at the end.

Well, enough for now, I need a coffee.Have fun,

Joerg
P.S.: Appologize for funny english.P.S.2: I'll read the build report here in this forum carefully!

[Perkasaman2]

Your English is very good and good luck with your build.

[JoJoElbe]

Your English is very good and good luck with your build.

thank's, could be worse, I guess 
Another big THANK YOU to Larry (TheLongBuild) who was digging deep in his archives to get me an old Model Boats article.
I did some homwork: the plan of '5/8 to the foot' seems to be 1:19 (translated ), I've scanned the plan in pieces and glued them together so that I have an option to cut out what I want without destroying the original plan.

The deck on the hull seem to fit quite well, stern, sides and front agree quite good, I just have to add a cm somewhere, which shouldn't be that problem.
  <<3 images attached>>
just my little wharf is too small     
<< image attached>>
But I recently generated more space for hulls up to 1m.
Anyways, after some research and looking through the facebook side of the Douglas station, I think I found my favorite. It will be the Sir William Hillary (the name rules, I guess).
Tricky slipway but the size of the boathouse is moderate and there are several photos from the inside to build just a bit of the interior (it still has to serve as a transport box). 
That's all for now,stay healthy,Joerg
   

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,I'm looking for propeller and motor infos.... so far I'm in the range of 6000 rpm and a 30mm 4 blade prop with 0.9 gradient/slope .... (Raboesch A- or D-type)would more love to use a 35-40mm 4 blade prop---

I guess both the guys who built the 1:19/18/20 model are not around, but maybe someone has an idea what they've used.  The 1986 article talked a bout monoperm-super motor and 4 blade props (unknown specifications).
Best, Joerg

[RST]

Hi,

In your search for build info did you check "Trucker's" rendition of his Tyne literally just a few posts below you?

I have had quite a few PS hull mouldings from Sarik and they are close or close-enough that a general modeller would expect.  I had a PS moulding from a suppier I won't mention where parts just didn't mke sense but there was so much hassle obtaining the kit I'm not surprised.  I also had a few GRP mouldings -and I can't think of any that were exact on the suppied plans.  Easy to fix though!

Wish you well with your build!  I keep on looking at Sievers kits the crane barge I always wanted is long gone!

Rich

[Perkasaman2]

The Tyne Class boats had a design top speed of 18 knots. I hope this is helpful in choosing power levels of motor/propellor  performance.
Your 1:20 Scale model will have a scale speed of 4.63 m.p.h. at top speed. You will need to convert this figure into kilometres per hour speed.
I hope the above is helpful in making choices.

[JoJoElbe]

hi,starting with 16.7 or so, it was indeed 18 knots  at the end (did ever anyone measure the highest when they were fully euiped in action?), I'll make 20 out of it ... 'running away velocity'

I found a few excel sheets to calculate, but I was more looking for a working system, which were presented here. But I found no details (so copy&paste won't work  )
 
The raw parameters are clear, I think....Motor size 540, rpm per V ~ 500-700 (I plan 9.9V)  35-40mm prop 3-4 blade. For a 40mm prop there's probably just 1mm left and right. Therefore I'll first build the side keels and then check the space again.  Accu I could use 6.6V, ),9V (2S,3S LiFePo) or 7.2V NiMH, fortunately I have already two similar LiFePo controlers in other boats, that way I could check early if the final chosen configuration may be too strong for 9.9V and still have the option to try it with 7.2V ..... actually it's "xxxxx" what I write, the controllers work for LiFePo and NiMH (some auto control down when not enough power left etc. functions) ... nevertheless, I can use the ones I have for trials.

When I refurbished my first boat and exchanged a drive shaft with a slightly flexible coupling and not 100% aligned motor-prop system with an almost rigid motor-mount-drive-shaft-system (a coupling with hard rubber) the same motor+prop gave a slight better velocity and almost no noise (well, no extra noise).That kind I will install here too (Gundert starre Welle by Bauer Modelbau, in Germany, sorry -- they cut any usefull length). I'm not 100% sure from all the photos I looked at, but I think the tube around the shaft (Stevenrohr in german) is going outsite the hull to the holder (right before the prop).  There is no free shaft in the space between hull and holder !?
At the end one can calculate a lot, the right velocity is the one which fit's best for the eyes. 

Anyways, waiting for the weekend. First a stand and correct/clear the upper rim of the hull.Have fun,Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,
wow, some orders take 2 weeks and other 3day incl. delivery....  My wife looked out od the window: " There are big packets coming for you..."
Me: "Ok, I'll take over cooking today..."

Well, several things fo a different project arrived, most material I plan to use for Deck and more from the Tyne. 3 different profiles for making the sprayrail, a pot of yellow --maybe too yellow --, both motors and both props, they seem a bit too small. Nevertheless, after driving tests I can always replace them.
Yesterday I had the luck for some laser cutting.  So I made up all upper parts of the ribs (spanten in german) to get the bow of the deck. Also the side keels were printed twice and in parts, as they were longer that the cutarea. They wer cut in 2mm and 1mm PS material (leftover).  In the bow I've affed up several pieces to make the front lower kel part rigid to get both the holes for fastening the boat in the Boathouse (photo will follow later). Later that part will be finally filled with long time (60min) epoxy.

Slow progress ... 

Attached photos:
1. Laser cut stuff, unfortunately one has to get rid of the black burnt material... filthy job.
2. Some parts so far
3: One of the lifeboat-man resin printed (bought the stl files) and the yellow...

Hav fun and a nice wekend,
Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,
got a bit progress over the weekend.   Both sliding and propeller protection keels are glued with UHU-Allplast, including 3 brass sticks on each side glued with superglue.  It still need thin stripes of ps (1-1.5mm) to fill geaps and enlarge the contact surface.
Then I made a stand for the building time (later the boat will stay in the boathouse). It may look a bit high and quite long but as you can see, my  space is limited and this larger stand covers the hull (and later the railing too) against, let's simply call it 'the yard'...
A few more people werde printed in resin and I made a first attemt for a window, the outher frame is 0.5mm thick and the screws are just 0.2mm. Printed absolutely flat, so I would say, I found my parameters for the windows. Just have to make the up in FreeCAD ...
This week the propeller shaft's etc. will arrive.

Best regards,Joerg

Attached photos:
1: The front keel is filled with various PS stripes. 
2: Sliding keels glued
3. large stand
4. resin printed window (26mmx26mm somehow...)

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,reading, reading, reading + searching for photos....Just found out that my windows miss a tiny layer ....
I've buit the trim plates this weekend.  First I thought of using brass but then I found some leftover hinges in one of my boxes. The fit very well in size.
The hull lower stern was cut and I build a kind of 'step' for the trim plates. These are made of 1mm PS + 0.75mm PS with cutout for the hinges and hnges glued + 0.5mm PS to habe a smooth surface. In the hinge aread I drilled two holes and glued a stick of PS inside. That should prevent the hinge part for slipping (even though they are glued).  The hinge axes stay outside and the plates werde stick through openings to the inside. There they are screwed to a piece of wood.  As long as the 'hydraulic' parts are not final they remain just screwed. Later they will be glued with 2K epoxy and the whole inset will be sealed with 2K epoxy (60min).
The first upper frame also has been glued. A second one, will come soon and then I can fine-cut the upper stern.
Photos:
1. wide movenment range
2. hinges and PS sticks
3. fromthe inside
Best,
Joerg

[Trucker]

Hi jojoElbe
looks nice, do you intend for the trim tabs to be controlled from your transmitter via a servo inside the hull


Trucker

[JoJoElbe]

Hi Trucker, I've not finally decided. I don't know if you need to change it while driving or just before, depending on wave conditions.  But it's planned to be movable (trimmable) either manually or by transmitter.Best,
joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,before aranging anything on the stern I've added a second deckbow (raw in the position of frame A), on the two I've fitted a deckplate reaching the stern. Then it was easy to cut the hull top rim of the stern.  Overall height in the center from bottom to top awas about 129,5 mm, very close to the plan.
J

[JoJoElbe]

OK, now I'm in the middle of the trim plates construction.   
First the safety grid for the hydraulics/mechanics of the trim plates was made, 1.5mm brass and normal soldering.
It's a bit thicker than scale, first I haven't had any 1.3mm rod flying around and the close to sclae size 1mm is simply to thin. Why? Because I'm really bad in driving boats backwards.

I've drilled holes into the stern an placed them, but i guess at the end I have to correct a bit. It's just for the developement of a working trim plates system. For that I placed two pieces of bowden cable (Bowdenzug in german) and mounted them to the plates. In general this can work.  If I mount them inside the hull on a rigid plate, I could move the trim plates up and down by movin the plate up and down.  Well, so far for today, Still have to think about that.
Best regards and have a nice weekend after the storms (here it's soon reaching it's maximum),Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,
today I started to align motors and shafts. I wanted to mount both rudder. Which at least were kind of finalized for mounting. And then my wife said she'll leave for a coffee afternoon to a friend.

Well.... one could ...

So I picked up tools, alu-profiles from the attic, searched for som plywood plate, found a perfect one and brought everything down to our 'dining' table. I started the computer opened side views of boathouse and boat started to measure, 12deg slipway angle....  length and broadth... from google earth 19mx7.9m without the fron extension - roughly .... the boathouse/transport-box should not be longer than 1m - that fits. For the width I had 2 photos wher I used the width of the boat to guess the size of the boathouse... of course with different results but not so far away from goole earth. And then I looked at the plywood... too a ruler and... 38cm, great, plus 2x 0.6mm for construction profiles and something for the walls - fits too. So I don't have to saw too much.
Then ... saw alu profiles .... drill holes ... mount the profiles .... poop, the 'other starboard' ... dismount and mout again ...

finally after roughly 4 hrs:  Attached photo 1: The battlefield!
a bit of hoovering -- no one should go bare foot tonight....
and photo 2:  side view (the motor shaft mount help is still on)

and photo 3: almost can't wait to go to the pond!
Have a nice sunday, I think I have to make a larger hoovering session tomorrow.
Best,
Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

 Hi,
so, ...

I've made my sketches from the plans and compared it to photos... well ... details are different, especially the windows. After I bought some large sheat of 4mm plywood, I could cut the sides of the house.

The small extension with the doors needed to be set up, therefore the front supports had to be shiftet a bit back and some extension had to be made.

Then I wanted to cut out the openings for the windows. Tricky part, as plan, my real size and photos differ a lot. Finally I found my places and becaus the row of windows in the upper part were grouped 3+3 because of the middle support of the sides, I also had to move these 0.5cm ... 

After I had sketches for the windows I had to cut them out. Startet with a proxxon drill and a thin circular saw .... straight lines??? ...
Today I found, that I have a proxxon jigsaw too (the cheaper one, got it together with other stuff from ebay and didn't use it since then).
That at least went better although wood and straight cuts and me don't really fit together....

I hope a thin frame from the outside will cover most of the odd cuts.

The windows I've set up with Freecad and printed them in PLA.  I'm pretty sure, net week I'll find a high resolution image of these windows

A piece of acrylic (or whatever) glas together with the inner frame will be glued from the inside to all single opening far later.
Got a few problem with this post, I try it without photos.J

[JoJoElbe]

And here are the photos:
1. extension in progress
2. side view (+ a box for a springer tug 'push-barge'.)
3. larger window, with inspection from the inside
4. row of smaller windows, the will be connected by tiny 0.5mm stripes of PS later

It's still developement in progress...

Best, Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi all,
after the halfway ugly looking wooden part I've played a bit with CAD today (I'm still a beginner). The slipway will have many repeating elements therefore having a 3D sketch to test ideas may help a lot.  It's far from ready but I think the sketch already looks quite nice and shows that even a complicated looking slipway as the Douglas one can be buit relatively easy and basic to be build (once the sketch is ready, I hope).


There will be a strong connection over the width by a flatband of aluminum on 3 places. Connecting or dap filling plates are still missing. As I wrote, it's just a first setup.
Have a nice week,
Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi All,
the idea developed a bit further and I got the chance to get a round of laser cut (took the laser about 2.5hrs). With the cross members ('Querträger') and the alu U-profiles I could play a little and fast found the problem how to get the cross members upright in the U-profile with 12deg gradient.  I found an easy solution: printing two half blocks each with a gradient of 12deg on on site. So the 'ends' of the cross members are always perpendicular to the U-profile upper surface. That way any distance part can be just cut straight.
Same idea for the left-right connectors (not yet done) and luckily quite fast with 3D (well fast work for me but printing took a few hours).

Finally I assembled a test part and  I'm quite happy with that. Next would be to arrange connecting plates etc.The white stuff are Teflon stripes, rolls are missing.

Best,Joerg
Images:
1. Laser cut delivery
2. 3D printed parts
3. the slipway idea as it is now
4. detail
5.detail

[JoJoElbe]

Hi, I had a bike puzzle over the weekend. It's somehow like model boat building. For changing tires it takes 20min and for just mounting some tiny stuff it takes hours.... (first you have to find the parts... then to understand them .... and then fit them to your kind of bike as they were built for something else...)
Nevertheless I found some time for the boathouse. I've decided earlier to fake the 'trapezoidal sheet metal' outside walls by using plywood and wooden strips....
So first cut 1m strips to 24cm long parts, finally 160 were needed, cutting until the bursa ('Schleimbeutel') in the shoulder were glowing.
Then glue them onto the sidewalls, parallel! -- for that I 3d-printed two masks which fiitted 4 strips each. One for the upper part and one for the lower. In addition I marked the playwood with vertical lines to find out early enough if I'm running out of course.
It worked, always glued three in one go, the 4th was the overlap with the group before.  Each day 80 pieces, took roughly 2 hrs every day.

I hope I'll find sime time for the boat again next week.Have a nice week,
Joerg
Photos:
1. Cutting (just the first set)
2. work in progress (on the left the white 3d-printed masks
3. 2 times 80 ...

[JoJoElbe]

Hi,
not so many news on the boat, just a bit fiddeling. Weather was too nice, so I stayed downstairs. Anyways, both long sides of the boathouse are mounted now. Whereas one of them stays always mounted, the other has the option to take it off quite fast, for exhibitions or shows (once the interior of the boathouse will be ready... ...2030...).
For the slipway I got some metal grid and rough ideas to fill the gaps. From this trial I will later move the position of the cutouts in the cross member ('Querträger') a bit deeper and add a hole for a threaded rod on the left side, the U-profile will cover that as on the right side. All small holders on the threaded rods will get slightly new dimensions.
The stair plate on the left will move further to the middle and the styrodur pieces on top of the center gaps will later be replaced by something else to imitate cement.
At the moment I'm waiting for the second set of cross members and printing of the small holders on the threaded rods is running.
For now, have a nice week,
Joerg

The pictures:
1. Both sides extended an mounted
2. the mounting/glueing help for the strips.3. +4. Gap filling idea for refinement of the cross members.

 

[Charlie]

 

[JoJoElbe]

Hi Charlie,I've watched the videos, that's really cool. I may still need a few years to reach that state. 
On the videos you showed also recovery, what kind of motor did you use for the winch?A long slipway! ... I'm also planning up to 2,4m.Best,Joerg

[JoJoElbe]

Hi, the boathouse got a bit color on the outside, still just the left and right side. Window frames have been designed in CAD, printed from PLA and painted. As window glass I use a 0.5mm PETG plate, it's much easier to cut than acrylic or plexi-glass. Once they are assembled and mounted I'll come up with the photos and process description.
After finishing and repairing other projects for a meeting I started the first part of the slipway.
Basically it was done as the test before, just with different U-profiles at the sides and thus all small holders on each side of the holes in the cross members ('Querträger') had to be slighly changed and reprinted.   And ist's kind of a final mount.

First the Metal grid was folded at the ends, so that one could mount two of them through the opening in the cross member:
This gave a distance of 3.5cm between two cross members. For 5 threaded rods it's cutting 5 of them per cross member.

An awfull amount of work cutting them without a machine.

So on the next image several steps can be found side by side:

   



First the cross members (white) needed to be cleaned from the laser burn on the cut surfaces.... thats just friday afternoon to evening for 20 of them ...
The small holders on each side of the holes in the cross members were glued with Uhu Allplast and fixed with screws. After a while srews were dismounted and the holes were redrilled to get rid of leftover glue.

Then a cross member was pushed onto 5 threaded rods then 5 distant rods followed and so on, 20 times. Printing tome for the red part per cross member 1hr6min.

 That took the whole weekend and a few hours the last days.

Finally the first 80cm part was done, 80cm because they will fit beneath the bouthouse floor.

 

 

Here you can see from the side how the small red block manage to get the cross members upright whil the slipway has a 12deg gradient.
well, it looks already great, even though a lot of things are still missing.
While glueing the red blocks the side ones were already fittet to the U profiles. It was the an easy step to mount the outer U profiles:
 

 
Still 1,4m to go .....

Anyways, I now have a part which I can fidlle with the mounting to the boathouse for slip and for transport as well as building the flip mechanism for the second part.

The middel profile I'll hopefull build the next weekend.
Have fun,
Joerg

 

[JoJoElbe]

here are the images, sorry