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[RogerH]

I admired a vintage model in a charity shop. My wife crept back and bought it for me as a Christmas gift. Unfortunately it didn't fit under the bed where she had planned to stash it till December. So here I am in October, the proud owner of a vintage Wavemaster (early 1960s I guess) model. I really like it but am debating what to do with it next and would welcome any suggestions:





http://www.hyam.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/PXL_20231003_171227542-scaled.jpg





http://www.hyam.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/PXL_20231003_171146097-scaled.jpg




1) Shelf Angel - keep it as purely ornamental.


2) Get the engine running and do a period sensitive restore by just adding a modern radio control. Not sure where would let me use it with a IC engine these days. I'm going to talk to the guys at the local boating lake.


3) Electrify and possibly add autonomous autopilot etc. I do software for a living so embedding a computer is the answer to everything!



I kind of like the distressed look. I wonder if I could just varnish over the dirt rather than repaint it to look new.


Any suggestions?

[derekwarner]

Welcome onboard Roger...that is a pretty impressive looking Craft 


I read your thoughts & your background, so think your chosen options are the best path .....


Talk to a few Guys at a local Club, then 3] "electrify the vessel drive " as the most logical plan


Let's see what others think


regards Derek

[Circlip]

Pity that what looks to be a 'Fury' has been allowed to deteriorate. Don't think you'd have a problem  running that as an I/C powered boat on most ponds, the 'Captain' wouldn't be water ski-ing behind that one at 1.49cc


  Regards  Ian

[JimG]

Best way would be to electrify it, the engine is likely seized up from the old castor oil inside it. A bit difficult to get diesel fuel to run it on nowadays anyway.

Jim

[SailorGreg]

I kind of like the distressed look. I wonder if I could just varnish over the dirt rather than repaint it to look new.


Any suggestions?

I wouldn't try and varnish straight over what's there.  It will look horrible and probably peel off in no time.  I suggest you clean it up at least (mild soap and water to start with, then a tentative wipe with white spirit if you want to take off more of the dirt of the ages).  It will still look "used" and how much more you do depends on whether you plan to run the boat (it sounds like you do).  I would take steps to check all the seams and seal all the wood if I was going to float the boat.  And there are a lot more model boat clubs that ban IC than there are that allow it, so unless you know of an IC club close to you, go the electric route.

Good luck

Greg

[canabus]

A 1250kv 35mm brushless on 3S Lipo battery which I am running in my HMM Wavemaster.
You can checkout my build on this site.


Canabus

[chas]

When choosing how a model should look there is no right or wrong, but a thorough clean and stabilise of what's already there is the minimum needed.
 I suggest looking at other wavemaster models, there are plenty of pictures on the internet and seeing if anything appeals to you. One thing stands out to me, the mast on the cabin roof is unusually large so cast a critical eye on that to be sure you want that the way it is. I'd also agree that modern brushless electric is a great way to make it to well.

[chas]

I forgot to say, that engine, it looks like a Fury to me too, deserves to be removed and renoveated/cleaned as an great item on its own.

[canabus]

This my Wavemaster with the 1250kv motor>


Harry

[RogerH]

Very nice!


I'm wondering if it has to be Lipo? It is such a large boat I was thinking NiMH or even going lead acid.


(The existing diesel turns over smoothly and has good compression so I get the feeling it would run. But the fuel would cost as much as an electric motor!).

[canabus]

Hi Roger


Running 3S Lipo and using a smart charger with a safety bag also cut back the max charging rate.


EG rate 5000mah battery to 2.5 Amps.


Like all batteries they are require a limit on charge rates or they over heat.


Harry

[JimG]

If you are using a smart charger then there is no need to cut down the charging rate from the standard C rate. Your 5000 mAh should be charged at 5A and the charger will cut off the charge long before the battery even starts to get warm. I had a pair of 3S 8000 mAh packs which were charged at 8A and were always cool after a charge. If I was to find a pack warm after a charge then that pack is straight for disposal after allowing it to cool in a safe place then completely discharging it. It is important to allow a used pack to cool down completely before recharging. I have been using LiPo cells now for at least 15 years and have never had a charge problem, my only failures being packs that have been allowed to discharge too far and at too low a voltage for the charge to start, normally soved by giving it a short charge on NiMh setting to bring the voltage back up. These will never be used for anything where capacity is critical.

Jim

[chas]

Don't even consider lead acid, they are great in heavy displacement hulls, but next to useless in this model. Nimh batteries could be made to work, I've done it myself, I did it by using a smaller propeller to reduce the current consumption. Before long I moved to lipo, it was a revalation. Lighter, better current availability, they really are the best.
 My only extra comment about them is to buy a really good smart charger and to learn to use it, that might take an hour of your time but you'll never regret it.
 The only time I've told a modelling friend not to use lipo s was someone who just didn't want to think about anything technical, he just needed as simple a method as possible.