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[Dave_S.]

The revival of the old Shadow kit I bought last November is making progress, but very slowly. I had other things on my bench for most of December and January, so the poor old Shadow was left in its box. It is now the focus of attention, back on the bench. I haven't had much free time recently, so all I have managed to do is construct a plywood stand to support it during the build and transport it to the club's water when it's ready to sail.


As my 1980s Shadow went well with a Webra 20, I am taking that as a benchmark. I will be starting with a 3536 1000kv out runner on a 3s LiPo pack, but if that's too lively, I can replace it with a 2836 without any trouble. Actually, it might be more sensible to start with the 2836 and change to the more powerful motor if it looks like the model can take it. I know that the Shadow had a reputation of being intolerant of excess power!


I'll take some more pictures once things get moving again.

[ChrisF]

What's the kv of the 2836 though Dave because if it's quite a bit higher that might be the livelier motor?

Dependant on your Tx you can always limit the oomph anyway!

Chris

[Dave_S.]

The 2836 is 1000kv, the 3536 is 1050

[ChrisF]

Not much in it then Dave so as you say start with the smaller one.

I must admit I tend to over motor my builds, partly because they will run less hard and therefore cooler, but also I still can't believe how powerful these little motors are.

Chris

[Dave_S.]

I reckon my Webra 20 of forty years ago would have struggled to reach .5 horse power, so about 350 watts - and the boat was only just staying on the water. I think starting with the 2836 would be the safest option, if it's not enough it will be a quick and easy job to swap the bigger one in.

[Subculture]

I think the larger motor is a sensible choice.

[Dave_S.]

Another month and another small step towards completing the Shadow. After much checking of alignment, I finally glued & glassed the motor mount in place. I used the 2836 motor to get everything in straight and free running.


Having installed the motor, I then removed it to see practical it would be to change the motor once the model is complete. To make a more realistic test, I taped the deck to the hull to simulate what I would need to do if I wanted to swap motors once the model is finished.


The answer is that it is possible, but not something I'd want to do very often.


Here is a picture of the 2836 1100 kv motor - I only managed to get 3 of the 4 bolts in place with the 3636 before I gave up for the evening.

[Andyn]

I’d strongly recommend getting that red plastic coupling out and replacing it with something suitable for the job. A solid coupling would be best if your motor is perfectly aligned

[Dave_S.]

I have both solid and rubber joined couplings of the same length available, and will be trying them all out when the boat is ready to test on the water.
This isn't intended to be a very fast boat, in fact from my experience with a .21 glow engine in one of these 40 years ago, it is very easy to overpower the hull.