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[wallace]

Hi to all this is my next build  HMS VICTORY 1/75 scale  wooden build I have just started on the slipway.

[wallace]

Here's the box.

[derekwarner]

That Bow piece you have on your cutting mat appears    a little more complex than the artwork on the Billimgs box Wallace


From further investigation, it appears that the Billings model boats build #397, is actually a Building Board [model dockyard] for other Billings boat construction


https://modellers-workshop.com/billings-boats-bil397-building-slip/


Derek

[wallace]

HI Derek looking at it now the parts are not what's on the front of box but its all built now all 25 parts ?? but its done the job and yes it cost a few bob.

[wallace]

The photos of the build of the slipway for the model HMS VICTORY which you can follow upto now its taken a week to build waiting 24 hrs for the wood glue  to set on parts.

[wallace]

the last three photos are all for the start of the framework of the Victory  as I said its a little bit cut and a little bit sanding then using white wood glue  letting it dry 24 to 48 hrs  so far the build is 2 weeks old a very long way to go ,I'm just waiting for my parts to arrive from Japan so I can paint the hull on my Yamato so two ships on the go  wow.

[Footski]

I never built a ship using such a framework, butvI am looking forwards to following your build.

[wallace]

Here's the photo of the HMS VICTORY  that I'm building its 1/75 scale and all made of wood alot of the build is 5mm.

[wallace]

Parts to be cut out

[wallace]

first parts cut and clean just onto the fitting not glued

[wallace]

As you can see on the parts I have drawn lines downwards thats to give the ok that the parts are are square and straight.

[wallace]

more parts place to see how they fit still not glued.

[wallace]

  Hi all parts are glued into place and I'm happy with the Finnish job I let them dry for a good 48 hours with white wood glue.
The next Job is cutting out the lower deck and fixing to the frame using small tacts the photo shows how I have done it  after putting in a few tacts I turn it over and applied white wood glue
puts my box's of lead weights to hold the deck down and I let it set for 48 hours before turning it over again to seal all parts under the deck with white wood glue

[wallace]

The next few photos are the plans for the next stage of the build to give you all a look how its getting build 

[wallace]

The parts getting put together and left to dry and harden for another 24 hours    Really enjoying this build and I know its going to take me ages to build but that model making be happy  and look back and smile at your work.

[JimG]

You need to cut down on the amount of white glue. If you check the plan there is probably a sub deck that sits on that piece flush against the former. The glue fillet will stop the deck from sitting flush.
Jim

[wallace]

Thanks JIM G  the wood glue was only just put on  for showing what I have done and if you see the later photos which I haven't put on just yet,  all is well with the frame part and as all my followers  will tell you 100% would say my gluing is fab, JIM I left it like that for a while to let the super glue under the other part to harden really thanks for your comment.

[wallace]

sorry about the wait for photos of the build,I have been working on the ship most days some days its a bit to cold I only do around 1hours in the morning then 2 hours in the afternoon,


Here are some photos from the 18th Jan 24 

[wallace]

More on the build still on the frame but on the near end.

[wallace]

Onto the lower deck for planking which will take around 12/14 hours to do, you can see the black thread I'm using so I tried to rub along the thread with super glue to make it harden and easy to use it does work but it takes its time.

[JimG]

Just one problem with your deck planking, you have just one plank between adjacent but joints. A quick check on my ereferences shows that it should be 2 planks separating adjacent but joints with their joints staggered. This is needed on the full size to give more strength to the deck planking. A bit rivet counting but your plankung just doesn't look right.
Jim

[Footski]

Hi Wallace,
Coming along nicely, but Jim is right about the spacings on the planking. Also the caulking thread is far too thick and dominates the planks.
Please take this the right way as good advice. It is not too late to start again using much finer thread.

[wallace]

This is a reply to JIMG and FOOTSKI can I ask you both have you built the Victory from all wood ,with the kit you get plans etc but not how to put things together, yes I get things wrong we all do ,so about the planking I know the thread isa bit think I have ordered some in as I have two more decks to plank,I can start again as this deck is almost done and as its the lower deck alot on the right won't be seen, its my first ever time to do planking like this and I have taken "boobs" from a expert who has built the Victory  from Billings ,the planks are cut into lengths of 10cm and 5cm ,not worried about the right side odd cuts as the will be built on and not seen, also JimG  Billings dont show you how to plank and as its my first time of doing the planking  the photo's below I'm happy with  and I hope the next decks are better than this deck,Im a big boy and can take hits all the time  please remember its a hobby and a hobby to enjoy.
Anyway lets move on.
      wallace [size=78%] [/size]

[JimG]

I have not built the Victory as I don't have the storage space for one. I have however built 2 wooden ships, a Baltimore schooner coastguard gunboat and the William gunboat plus the Panart gundeck hull section. To respresent the caulking I have used 2 methods. I first used black tissue glued to the edge of the planks, the planks were arranged in a block and tissue glued to one edge, the planks are then cut apart  keeping the tissue  on the edge. A fiddly method but gives a good thin line, main drawback is sanding the planks after fitting tends to leave fibres from the tissue. The second method I have used is to run a permanant black marker down the edge of the plank. You need to do this quickly to stop the ink soaking into the grain. Sanding the planks after fitting to give a smooth deck can produce black dust which can mark the planking so scraping the planks can be better. If you are varnishing the deck then you must make sure that the varnish doesn't dissolve the ink.I have included a couple of photos of the William.
Jim

[Footski]

Wallace, yes I have built the Victory. It is an award winning model, which was featured in Model Boats magazine many years ago.
The advice we give you, is so you can learn and make a better model, which you can enjoy for years to come.
Should you choose not to take the advice that is fine, but a shame.
I would start that planking again as it rail's to do justice to the model and I am sure you will get more pleasure from it.
The decision of course is yours.