Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[SimonCornes]

This is pretty straightforward. I bought a steam tug a few months ago and it has a pair of water tanks either side of the hull with a manual pump to fill the boiler. I've had to remove the tanks because the water feed pipes are blocked so kettle descaler and boiling water is required and one is now clear, but I discovered a water leak (fill with water, put finger over end of feed outlet and mouth around filler and blow - that soon shows leaks!)
I have two soldering irons, a little 5 W jobbie for electronic work and a 40W Weller with a chisel tip. I've tried with the Weller to re-solder the point where the leak is but the soldering iron isn't hot enough so I ended up sealing the leak but the propagation of the heat has caused another leak and so it goes. I know that I just need to get it hot locally and the iron off quickly and then to cool the tank down.


So my question is what soldering iron should I get ? I'm using electrical cored solder so should I use a different solder and a separate flux? Basically I would appreciate being told to buy 'Product X, Y and Z' and know that they would be up to the job. The tanks are not that large and I think using a gas torch of some sort would just deconstruct the entire tank! I have seen a 100W soldering iron on eBay, not expensive but I'd prefer to ask for advice first rather than just buy something that may not do the job.


Any advice much appreciated and I don't get emails telling me that someone has replied to a post so please accept my apologies if I don't reply to you straight away.
Thank you,
Simon

[Bunkerbarge]

As you have discovered repairing a soft soldered tank is not easy as you invariably open up more leaks than you fix.  There is of course always the suggestion of rubbing some sort of sealant into the leaks to fix them.  Captain Tolley's works superbly:


[size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126024991251?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1I2EXUjvNT6ienLRU0RR-xg17&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=126024991251&targetid=2360873003490&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006524&poi=&campaignid=21690875706&mkgroupid=169793746720&rlsatarget=pla-2360873003490&abcId=10027099&merchantid=6995734&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmt24BhDPARIsAJFYKk04iSVuPEFScYf-7wCk34L-p3DnJOIxp4nR2IjMLtlbhPptReJSp4MaAuAvEALw_wcB[/size]


If you want to solder though you need something that can heat up quickly and in a controlled focused manner.  When I fit handrails I solder them in place so I want quick controllable heat to prevent burning the deck.  I use this Clarkes Torch.  I also use a liquid non clean flux, which I apply by paintbrush, which not only helps the flux to flow freely but it also cools the job quickly when you have soldered it. 


https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cbt1-butane-gas-torch-kit/


The non clean flux is here, you can get it on its own or with a fibreglass brush to clean the joint:


https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/soldering-bundle-pack/


I'm sure, as usual, there will be plenty of alternative suggestions but these are things I have tried and used successfully.

[SimonCornes]

Thank you BB,
I watched the video on the DCC Concepts website, interesting. Do you use their sapphire wire solder too? I assume so looking at your photo. That Clarke torch is an impressive piece of kit, not cheap but I suppose you get what you pay for ? And I have seen Captain Tolley's before although not used it. I may acquire some anyway for future availability as I believe it's very good at sealing leaks from the inside of hulls? It occurred to me that I could apply a bead of Milliput to the leaking seam or even a piece of insulating tape but somehow soldering is better and as originally intended and just looks better. I wonder if a 100W electric soldering iron would do the job though? I have some plumbers solder and flux but again that is designed to solder copper pipes so really over the top for this little tank. Maybe the DCC solder and flux plus a 100W soldering iron would be the best compromise? But, as you say, you know that your method works.

[John W E]

hi there


I do own a gas torch which is similar to the one Bunkerbarge has shown.   I only use it on large items to be soldered. 


I do have a smaller torch which originally was used by chefs and cooks to brown off pastries and soforth.   It is more of a pencil sized gas torch (large pencil) which is refillable.   I use the gas which cigarette lighters can be filled up with.  I think I only paid about £4 or £5 for this from Ebay.


For real backup I have my dad's old copper soldering iron which you can heat up on either a gas ring or a paraffin blow lamp.   If you can get the hang of using one of these soldering irons, they are just as good, if not better than the electric soldering irons you can buy - especially for tin/copper work.


For flux I have a variety of flux's which I use.   Liquid flux - TopNik RF800 - also I have Carr's orange flux which I use when I am doing railings etc., and making brass masts.


On the whole though I tend to use  Termo Pasty soldering paste.


John

[SimonCornes]

Thank you John, I’d forgotten that I had one of those pencil torches, I must dig it out and see if it still works. Many thanks for the advice, more grist to the mill!!

[Big Ada]

To stop melting solder where you dont want it melted, you need a Heat Sink, something Metal and large enough ( Pair of Pliers, Large metal Nuts etc ) placed on the solder joint will keep the Temp down long enough for you to make you repair.


Len.

[SimonCornes]

Thanks Len, that was worth knowing. Normally with something like this when you’re assembling it you tack it together then carefully fill in the gaps using plenty of flux. Trying to do a repair with an iron which isn’t hot enough just allows heat to spread and then the whole thing falls apart. To be honest I’ve cheated because these are just water tanks and they’re painted but there is no pressure in them apart from the weight of the water so I’ve actually repaired the seam with 24 hour Araldite. I could have mixed some Milliput but mixing glue is easier and you get the same result. But I fancy one of those Clarke burners!!